1. I read PL tubes which are actinic or 50/50 are inferior compared to FL actinic tubes? Is this true even if the PL tubes are claimed to be for marine tanks?
inferior in what sense? the amt of kelvins produces etc
2. Can I use my current eheim filter when I convert to marine without changing anything to it cuz I assume it already has a bacteria colony which would be good in cycling my marine tank? Does this mean I don't need to add in those off the shelf bacteria mixes?
marine bacteria is different from those of FW. Unless your eheim filter (i assume that it is a canister) is not slated for marine use, then change it although i do recomned getting at least 2028 if possible or best 2227/2229. Not need to buy those off the shelf bacteria. I dun believe in those stuff.. use the natural method, dump in a prawn or sotong and let it stay there for 4 weeks, to let the NH3 spike.. u can find out more abt the nitrogen cycle from the aquatic faq... another thing, no livestock until your NO3 starts to rise and both NH3 and NO2 are zero
3. Just how do you go about landscaping a marine tank? how to you stack rocks? what do you use as the base? If I want to create a reef slope, do I just use LR to form it or should I use something else to form it then add LR onto it?
it is totally up to your imagination. To save on the amt of LRs, i use plastic buckets to elevate the rocks from the base and at the same time, create a 'caves' for the fishes to swim thru and take refuge. To stack LR, make sure that there are at least 3 point of contacts between rocks. Give it a light shake and see whether does it move. when u try it, u understand what i mean
4. I've read everywhere but really can't find any concrete info on how much light to have. Just how much would be good for a 2ft tank assuming I'm planning to keep mostly soft corals and anemones with about 5 fishes? how many W of white light and how many W of actinic light?
5 fishes are too much for 2ft. Consider max of 2 clown fishes. Fishes are terriorial unlike FW fishes, eg, cardinals! corals aint like plants in FW, dun count the number of watts but rather the kelvins produced by the lights. Eg: An 18watts white light might produce 9500 kelvins but a 150 watts might produce only 6500 kelvins. It all depends on what u wan to keep, hard or soft corals. I advise reading up on what u wan to keep and whether can u provide for them and their requirements. Dun be caught up in the stupid 'Nemo' phenomenon which is gonna be another LH!
5. I would like to have a external skimmer, can anyone reccomend a good and under $100 one? preferably with venturi system cuz I think an air driven one would produce to much noise from the air pump? Or can anyone reccomend an air pump that is really very quiet?
just remember and to set the record straight, u must get protein skimmers, not surface skimmers. At 100 and below, u might have some difficulty in getting one as most external skimmers are above $300-500. TO soften the vibration of air pump, put a piece of cloth underneath it. Problem solved.
6. I plan to use grade 0 coral sand, would this get sucked into my filter? I'm used to coarse substrate in planted tanks, but am unsure about finer grade substrates in marine tank, are they light enough to be sucked in?
I recommend Grade #1 or No.1 sand. If it is too fine, like powder, it will definitely be sucked in.
7. Just how do you go about adding corals and inverts into the tank? Like having setup with LR and all, how do you add in a coral, just set it on the LR where you want it there? will it adhere immediately? if its a slope will it just tumble down if it doesn't adhere to it immediately? Or say clams?
[b]clams, firstly, are u prepared to get a calcium reactor to provide it with the calcium needs? are u able to provide it with the temperature of ard 26-28 degrees Celcius? Are u considering getting a MH for it and have optimal water quality, lets not forget its feeding habits. If not, dun get it. u are merely transporting it to its death. I'm not
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