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I just did a check on NO3 range 40ppm and I just dose 30 ppm of K.
Also CO2 30ppm just have to wait and see.
It's the first time I have dose PO4 to 4ppm.
Since I start dosing enough nutrients and up the CO2, BBA did not come back to haunt me.
Bclee has 40ppm before with no problems...[] But you would need every other thing to be in good range especially CO2 and NO3 or else algae will still love you.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
I just did a check on NO3 range 40ppm and I just dose 30 ppm of K.
Also CO2 30ppm just have to wait and see.
It's the first time I have dose PO4 to 4ppm.
Since I start dosing enough nutrients and up the CO2, BBA did not come back to haunt me.
Best range for NO3 is between 5-10ppm...yours is too high and would destablize your system causing algae outbreaks. Try to get it down through water changes.(It should go down and with everything in place, NO3 would be uptaken. If it does not, you should take a close look at your bioload..is it high for your tank?)
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
That what my sera test kit show today. I have been doing NO3 and PO4 every 4 days for a month to estimate the intake. This is the first time I seen 40ppm as my test normally show 10ppm. Not sure if the test kit have error , will do another to confirm again.
Second test NO3 10ppm
[]
Mmmmm...did you wash the tube well? I'm kinda puzzled by this kit as well. I wrote to them regarding whether the time of shaking would affect the results or not and they said shaking thoroughly is more important than how long it take to shake the sample.
Here is the exact email
Hello,
> shake
> for 15seconds after adding the 1st and 2nd powder
> reagent but the Sera Laboratory webby states shake
> once? Care to clarify on this? How about the second
> shake then? Is it just a shake or shake for 15 seconds
> again?
I recommend to shake thoroughly, this is more important than how long
you shake the sample.
We recommend 15 seconds because this makes sure you are by all means on
the safe side.
> Does the shaking make a difference to the final
> result?
No, as the powder reagent is added in excess anyway.
Best regards
sera GmbH
Dr. Bodo Schnell
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
I just flush the test bottle with tap water once before testing.
But I do follow the instruction and shake vigourously until some solution slip through the small opening on the cap.
My sera Fe testkit give me different reading also.
Try cleaning the tube with some detergent for better effect as I did see some problems myself when just flushing it with tap water. My PO4 kit shows some blue tint the moment I drop the first 6 drops of reagent one which is not suppose to happen...(some residue left in the tube is the cause.) [
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
I've just tested my tank with Sera NO3 test kit.
The result is 0mg/l (Green color). I guess those stem plants must have sucked them all or it is the result of my frequent water change. My algae problem has improved slightly.
Should I test for PO4?
Should I dose NO3 to make the plants healthier?
If the answer is yes, which brand/type is good?
Thanks.
Tom Barr is a world class authority and researcher where you can learn from. And we're lucky to have him here to comment and share his knowledge.----------------
On 8/4/2003 5:42:09 PM
I guess there are limited number of researchs on the topic too probably due to its "unseriousness" or that the market return is not worth investing more time and efforts into. Just wondering if there is any university conducting specialized degree in Aquarium Technology, Horticulture or related course and which is not just a sub-topic of aquaculture, ecology, biology, biochemistry, etc.
----------------
When I was in University, my professor that taught us research methodology told us about critical thinking, and not simply believe everything we read blindly. In the world, there're conflicting ideas and opinions, so being critical in our thinking is important. Only through valid and logical proof and proper experimentation will give us better knowledge to the truth. Of course, as hobbyist like many of us, being able to keep a beautiful healthy planted tank is what most of us is interested, that's all.
Singapore is not a country big enough to promote agriculture. That's why you don't see many courses on this. You may consider the Malaysia University if you're really interested. [
Ever ask what Dr Mallick used to measure NO3 level? What kinda of lab equipment or test kit? Is it accurate? Maybe he can sell some lab type of NO3 test kit.
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
You should dose NO3, else algae will continue. Personally, I don't use PO4 test kit. If you like to buy, most of us use Sera brand available at NA.
Alternatively, dose NO3 -> 10ppm together PO4 -> 1ppm. This will help in your algae problem.
I ever checked with Dr Mallick about the dosing amount. He recommended those micro-grams weighing machine to weight the powder. Not sure about test kit. But I guess he might not be into planted aquarium...
Okay, I just wrote to him and would feedback here upon his reply. [
Plant Physiology by Taiz and Zeiger
Most tap water seldom exceeds 2ppm.
If you do weekly 50% water changes, then PO4 almost never exceeds this range therefore.
I have no reason to add more beyond this amount.
Main thing is not so much a set level etc, but simply always having some for the plants. I've measured about .2ppm to .4ppm uptake per day at high light. Plants were fine at dosing this amount 3x a week. Less light=> less uptake, but no algae either. So if you add this amoutn etc, then you will supply the plant with enough for healthy growth.
The water changes will re set our tank each week preventing overdosing and the dosing every 2-3 days will prevent anything from running out.
It's simple and requires no testing. CO2 is the only thing you need to test for.
Many companies sell algae herbicies. But these are not applicable for a planted tank.
But they may be used on FW/SW non planted tanks etc. Personally copper sulfate seems fine to me if that's the issue. Cheap, works. When they market it for planted tanks, they cross the line. CuSO4 works well in planted tanks also but you need to be careful and some species don't like it.
No plant keeper worth their salt will use an algicide unless it's for cleaning equipment like pumps/tubes etc with bleach etc.
Yea, it's tough on the web, but........that's the way it goes.
You learn how to use/sort the info, rather than simply pulling it up. Regurgitating info is easy, knowing what to do with it is not. Not applying it to the correct situation is a mistake many folks make.
I do suggest reading lots of stuff to better form your opinion. But it can take time.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Thank you all for your generous and valuable contributions of opinions.
Now my plants are growing at super fast speed after I routinely (and cautiously) added fertilizer to the tank plus more frequent water change, the algae are starting to disappear.
It shows that when the plants are healthy, they will out grow algae.
I am going to try KNO3 to keep the nutrient more balanced.
I feel honored to have Mr. Tom Barr's attention to my little problem. Thanks.
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