Hailea Chiller & Canister Filter

[urban.pleco]

Hi everyone, i'm planning to get a chiller for a new setup & i found a good deal for Hailea 150A however the canister im using is Ehiem Ecco 2232. The recommended flowrate for 150A is 250-1000l/h & my filter flowrate is 400l/h.

My question is my filter suitable for this chiller or i should get 100A instead? It will be a 2 feet tank setup. Appreciate the advice i can get as im new to this.

[BFG]

The 1st thing to consider when buying the chiller is to make sure whether your tank size is suitable for the chiller. Always buy a chiller 1 step above the one you really need. If it's a 1/10hp, get a 1/6hp instead. We live in a climate where certain months are really hot and having a slightly over power chiller should help to over come this weather phenomenon. After clearing this hurdle would you go with the secondary consideration of whether your canister filter has the power to push water through the chiller.

As an added bonus to the question of purchasing a chiller, try to have your chiller modified to have an external temperature sensor attached to it, rather than using the internal temperature sensor that comes in stock configuration. Reason being, and it's a very big one, is that with an external temperature sensor, which will be placed in the tank itself, your chiller is not going to be relying on your canister filter performance or the ability to push a certain volume of water at a certain timing. With an external temperature sensor, the chiller is measuring the exact temperature of the water in the tank that's needed to be cooled. Once the whole tank water volume achieved the desired temperature, the chiller will switched off on it's own and sleep until it is awoken again when the water temperature rise to the cut off point that you set it.

If you use the stock configuration internal temperature sensor, you would have problem in getting the right pump to be used to push water to the chiller. No 2 set up are the same so your equipment to pump the water might not be strong enough or too powerful for the chiller. What will happen in this 2 cases? Simply know that the chiller will frequently switch on and off, on and off again so on and so forth. This will shorten the life span of the chiller. Why this happen, you might ask? It is because of the placement of the internal temperature sensor in the water compartment of the chiller. If the chilling power is faster than the water is able to carry it out of the chiller, due to an under powered pump, the sensor might have detected that the water is chilled and would halt the chiller to chill the water. As the water volume is being replaced by new water pushing in by the pump, the sensor will picked up this new warmer temperature and start the chiller again. The opposite happen when you have a powerful pump, in that the water travel too quickly for the chiller to chill the water, making the water although, slightly chilled but not chilled enough to cool the tank water volume.


Hope this helps!

[urban.pleco]

Thank you so much for the advice. Almost took the plunge to get the Hailea 100A but now you mention, maybe have to reconsider...

[eviltrain]

just a question. what dimension is your 2 feet tank?

[urban.pleco]

It's 60x30x38cm

[eviltrain]

its better for you to get A150 or CL 280 instead. You will get healthier monthly bills too.

[melvin0202]

May i know whats the price range for CL280? any recommendation on place to purchase?

[jeffteo]

I am exploring a chiller also and my tank size is almost similar urban.placo. Comparing Hailea and Resun, which chiller brand is more reliable?

[slimymadness]

hi all, sorry to hijack this thread. i am also facing a similar chiller problem, as BFG mention, it's worth getting a high powered chiller rather than underpowering the process. but we know that when the chiller kicks in, it consumes most power. thus as with BFG's theory, am i correct to assume than a chiller with a bigger HP will kick it less?

EG a 1/2hp for a 2footer vs a 1/8hp for a 2footer, which will kick in more times thus incurring a higher bill? thanks all!

[BFG]

My advise is to get a chiller 1 step higher that what you need for a given tank size. Reason being, it will not have to work too hard when the hot weather arrives on our shores. It might be a potential problem to have an under size or a 'just nice' chiller when the hot weather are upon us as these chiller will have to perform for a longer period to cool the tank during that hot period of the year.

As for the frequent kick in, I have suggested that a chiller need to be modified to have an external temperature probe which will lessen the kick in and out frequency of the chiller due to a lower or over powered pump flow rate.


Hope this helps!

[HerrGideon]

My apologies on hijacking this thread, but I believe I have a similar situation that I need advice for.

I have a 60x30x30 (cm) tank and just got a Hailea 100-A. May I enquire where I can get my unit modified to have the external temperature sensor?

Greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!

[ZackZhou]

sim lim or any place that sells air con.
there is 2 ways.
1: mod the external thermostat directly with the build in.
2: external thermostat that only connected to the power on/off of the chiller itself.

[HerrGideon]

Thanks for your response!

Any idea how I can do the mod or get the thermostat mentioned in No. 2? Is it compatible with the Hailea HC-100A?

[urban.pleco]

Hi giddygid, i bought the Hailea HC-100A & what i did was to buy the external temperature sensor from Sim Lim Tower & connect it to the chiller. This way the chiller will take the temperature reading from the tank instead of in the water reservoir in the chiller. This way it is more efficient & i also do not want to get a more powerful filter as my tank is only 2 feet.

This is the website link to the shop: http://www.acez.com.sg/index.php

[HerrGideon]

Thanks for your reply urban.pleco!

I bought the external sensor from Acez and tried setting the thing up. Most unfortunately, I am at a complete loss when it comes to electronics, so I decided to send it to Bioplast for fixing instead.

It's my first time there, and the shop owner was kindly and affable. Will be collecting it tomorrow!

[urban.pleco]

Haha, i had the same problem as you but managed to get it done in the end. Great to know that you will have a chiller soon!

[ladygaga]

Better don't drive your chiller through canister.
To use an external pump! Hailea Chiller 500A + Hailea pump HX6540, works great for my 4ft tank.

[DYLAN]

Hi guys urgent advice need. I recently bought a Hailea 300a from a fellow forumer. Initialy the setup was intake-canister-chiller-output but however I thought the output was reduced slightly so i decided to buy a pump.

I then got a Eheim Compact+ 2000 and connected, input-canister-chiller-pump-output. The flow has not increased and instead started producing fine like bubbles in my tank. So I changed it again to input-pump-canister-chiller-output. This time round its worst, the flowrate was worse than before I bought a pump. I noted before I bought the pump, my chiller would kick in for about 40mins and kick out for an hour or so. But with the last setup, the chiller is kicking in like every 10mins interval. Can someone advice what is really wrong with my setup.

[ladygaga]

Hi guys urgent advice need. I recently bought a Hailea 300a from a fellow forumer. Initialy the setup was intake-canister-chiller-output but however I thought the output was reduced slightly so i decided to buy a pump.

I then got a Eheim Compact+ 2000 and connected, input-canister-chiller-pump-output. The flow has not increased and instead started producing fine like bubbles in my tank. So I changed it again to input-pump-canister-chiller-output. This time round its worst, the flowrate was worse than before I bought a pump. I noted before I bought the pump, my chiller would kick in for about 40mins and kick out for an hour or so. But with the last setup, the chiller is kicking in like every 10mins interval. Can someone advice what is really wrong with my setup.

Dylan,

You made a big mistake. You can not run a car with dual engines----that does mean one pump one line, only except there have an override mechanism.
You may
1) unplug your canister and run with external pump only,
or 2)make a separate line for chiller.

Option 2 is recommended. Since the flow rate is 1000-2500L/H required by 300A, that's a big challenge for a fully filled canister as well will be even worse after a few days running.

[jeffteo]

Try just putting the pump and chiller. As there are media inside the canister and with the dirty build-up, the flow rate will not not really hit max even with an additional pump. You can try cleaning the foam inside the filter to see the difference.

For input-canister-chiller-pump-output, there should be some very fine leak some where and it is sucking in air.
input-pump-canister-chiller-output will have media and dirt restricting the flow. The pump may actually clog up the filter faster. That's why the canister is bigger for higher flow rate filter. Bigger canister will have more surface area on the filter pad to collect the dirt and will take longer time to clog up. Ever wonder why filter manufacturer don't just increase the flow rate of the same sized filter to increase filtration? This is why.
The intake pipe also plays a part. With the same size holes at the intake, no matter how much suction the pump provide, there is a limit.