Hailea Chiller & Canister Filter

[ladygaga]

Hi giddygid, i bought the Hailea HC-100A & what i did was to buy the external temperature sensor from Sim Lim Tower & connect it to the chiller. This way the chiller will take the temperature reading from the tank instead of in the water reservoir in the chiller. This way it is more efficient & i also do not want to get a more powerful filter as my tank is only 2 feet.

This is the website link to the shop: http://www.acez.com.sg/index.php

SOOO great you are, Pleco!

Can we be shared with your DIY?
i.e. what's the model of the sensor you used, how you replace and bypass the sensor from old to new, what's the reading and setting after replacement?

I have the idea to update my 500A, just blank in mind.

Cheers with giant thanks !

[DYLAN]

Dylan,

You made a big mistake. You can not run a car with dual engines----that does mean one pump one line, only except there have an override mechanism.
You may
1) unplug your canister and run with external pump only,
or 2)make a separate line for chiller.

Option 2 is recommended. Since the flow rate is 1000-2500L/H required by 300A, that's a big challenge for a fully filled canister as well will be even worse after a few days running.

Try just putting the pump and chiller. As there are media inside the canister and with the dirty build-up, the flow rate will not not really hit max even with an additional pump. You can try cleaning the foam inside the filter to see the difference.

For input-canister-chiller-pump-output, there should be some very fine leak some where and it is sucking in air.
input-pump-canister-chiller-output will have media and dirt restricting the flow. The pump may actually clog up the filter faster. That's why the canister is bigger for higher flow rate filter. Bigger canister will have more surface area on the filter pad to collect the dirt and will take longer time to clog up. Ever wonder why filter manufacturer don't just increase the flow rate of the same sized filter to increase filtration? This is why.
The intake pipe also plays a part. With the same size holes at the intake, no matter how much suction the pump provide, there is a limit.

A very big thanks to Ladygaga and Jeffteo for your advise. Correct me if i am wrong, the correct setup should be as follows: - intake-pump-chiller-output and a seperate for the canister will be intake-canister-output. Very new in this hobby as this is my first ever tank. A very big thank you in advance.

[BFG]

I would recommend that you modify your chiller 1st. After that, connect it to your canister filter. No need to use another pump and pay more for electricity.

[DYLAN]

Thanks BFG for your advice, currently the chiller is turn off as well as the pump. By just relying on the canister, will my flowrate be still insuficient?

[jeffteo]

The canister pump is design only for the rated flow rate and with all the media in, the flow rate should drop to around 60-70%. If that is within the recommended flow rate of the chiller, preferable in the middle of the range it should be sufficient.

[ladygaga]

The aquarium chiller is a little bit more complex compared with a beer chiller or fridge, since extra heat exchange will be cast between tank/water line and environment.
For a better understanding to setup a chiller, it may simplify the aquarium chiller as a fridge: The higher flow rate it is, the lower running time it will be, no matter where the sensor it is.

Assuming Chiller is running under flow rate of A:500H B:1000L/H C:2000L/H, if it takes 1 hour to sink down 1℃ for A, happily B will take half an hour, C will take 15mins only!

On the other words, under situation A, you put a cup of water in a fridge one hour, equal to the cup in fridge B for 2 hours as well as in fridge C for 4 hours. the later will result more temperature drop.

The higher flow rate is up to the designed max limit. Higher flow rate means higher pressure.

Consider the chiller is an electricity monster (1/10-1HP), higher flow rate is always way to energy saving.

[DYLAN]

The aquarium chiller is a little bit more complex compared with a beer chiller or fridge, since extra heat exchange will be cast between tank/water line and environment.
For a better understanding to setup a chiller, it may simplify the aquarium chiller as a fridge: The higher flow rate it is, the lower running time it will be, no matter where the sensor it is.

Assuming Chiller is running under flow rate of A:500H B:1000L/H C:2000L/H, if it takes 1 hour to sink down 1℃ for A, happily B will take half an hour, C will take 15mins only!

On the other words, under situation A, you put a cup of water in a fridge one hour, equal to the cup in fridge B for 2 hours as well as in fridge C for 4 hours. the later will result more temperature drop.

The higher flow rate is up to the designed max limit. Higher flow rate means higher pressure.

Consider the chiller is an electricity monster (1/10-1HP), higher flow rate is always way to energy saving.

Thats a very spot on reply and advise. I have finally solved the problem to my flowrate issue. It is due to a clogged fine filter pad in the canister. Thank you all forummers for your advise and replies.

[jeffteo]

You may want to try adding a pre-filter somewhere before the canister so that you can easily clean the bigger debris in the pre-filter. I think Eheim have inline pre-filter.
Please don't go and add a big pre-filter like the Shiruba one as it it will reduce the flow rate significantly.

[nightscent]

Hi all just want to confirm something regarding this topic before I commit to another purchase. I have also gotten myself a Hailea 300 a while back but have yet to setup my tank and was researching when I chanced upon this thread. In short, these are the 2 ways I can choose to setup my equipment since my 2217s will not be sufficient to drive my chiller - please correct me if I'm wrong somewhere

1) Tank -> Prefilter (to remove large debris) -> Pump (eg. Eheim 1250 which comes with prefilter also) -> Chiller -> Tank
The Eheim 1250 has a flow rate of 1200 l/h and should drive the chlller nicely. However this requires another set of input and ouput pair in my tank, and coupled with 2 x 2217s will this lead to too strong of a current flow?

2) Tank -> Cannister filter(eg. 2217) -> Chiller(Modified with external sensor) -> Tank
Since the 2217 is unable to drive the chiller properly, I should modify the chiller to sense the temperature of the water from the tank itself. This reduces the number of kick ins compared to a stock chiller in the same setup, as the kicking in is no longer triggered by inadequate flow of water. (Need some confirmation here ) However it would still take a longer time to chill the tank compared to option (1) because of a lower flow rate.

I would most likely prefer option (2) as it requires less tubing and inlets/outlets but I would love to hear any comments before I send my chiller off to Bioplast!

Additional Information - Tank size 4 x 1.5 x 2

[ZackZhou]

Hi night scent, what you mentioned above is correct. I suggest you go along with you option 2.
But first I need to know your tank dimensions. From what I saw I assume your tank is a 3 feet or 4feet?
If it's 3 feet, go for 2.
If it's 4 feet, I suggest you purphase a pump of at least 1400lph, connect as inlet > prefilter > pump > chiller > output.
Second line is inlet > 2217 (power off or sell away get a big prefilter) > 2217 (power on) > outlet

Like this num 1 will be chilling your tank, while number 2 is slowly building up bb(bb grows better with slower flowrate)

[nightscent]

Yup! tank is 4 x 1.5 x 2 Sounds like a good suggestion haha. Will the 2nd canister be stressed from pulling 2x the amount of media? I have heard some people remove the impeller for their filters - could I run mine like this?

First circuit: Tank > 1st 2217 > inline diffusor for CO2 > Tank
Other circuit: Tank > 2nd 2217 (Removed impeller/OFF) > External pump > chiller(Modify?) > Tank

[ZackZhou]

Can also. In that caseyou pump will be slightly higher flow rate. As a 4 feet, you can look for a 2000lph pump already

[elements]

halo experts...
juz to ask advise here...i have been cycling my 2ft(60x30x35) for 1 mth already...so do i need to do some maintenance on my canister filter too, like replacing the wool?
I'm using TR-5 and 2215...
so far kick-in is abt 20mins and the next will be abt 1hr plus..after some monitoring...

Thanks

[jeffteo]

Planted tank? Any live stock added?
Am no expert but if yours is a planted tank, it will be good the rinse the filter medias in used tank/dechlorinated water before adding any live stock.

[elements]

Ok thxs, planning for CRS.. Will do some maintenance then