needing assistance

**dennis93a** · 24th Jan 2011, 22:30

hi there.I'm dennis and a newbie at planted tanks. did up a 3ft tank last friday and plants turning yellow and deteriorating.appreciate advice from the experts.TQ

**vinz** · 25th Jan 2011, 11:33

Hard to help without information. We need more info about your set up.

1. What is in your substrate?

2. What is in your filter?

3. Are you dosing fertiliser yet? If yes, what (brand and product name), how much and how often?

4. Are you using CO2 or any other source of carbon (like Seachem Excel)?

5. What is the size of the tank?

6. How many watts of lights over the tank?

7. How many hours of lighting?

**dennis93a** · 25th Jan 2011, 16:16

Hi Vinz.
1. According to fish shop, substrate is river sand.
2. Tank is 2nd hand Juwel Vision180 (180ltrs) and i'm using the manufacturer prescribe filtration media.
3. Just before sending out the SOS i dosed the tank with 30ml of flora boost, dosage for 150ltrs as per table. Didn't want to overdo it. Please advise whether more or less is rule of thumb.
4. Same time when effecting 3., i added 2 tablets of CO2. Brand unknown but it says 100% Aquarium and bought from Wu Hu at Seng Poh Rd.
5. As per 2, 180ltrs 3ft
6. 2x35W
7. 7hours
Appreciate guidance. Thanks.

**Wolfgangs246** · 25th Jan 2011, 17:55

Did you de-chlorinate your water? Not sure if the chlorine and chloramine in tap water would be sufficient to do this to your plants. Experts please advise?

Also, were your plants bought submerged or were they out of the water? If your plants were exposed to air and had adjusted to processing CO2 from air, the sudden change in environment might be cause for the yellowing as they readjust to absorbing CO2 from water.

**vinz** · 25th Jan 2011, 18:25

1. Usually for planted tanks, we have a fertile substrate either by itself or below the gravel. Especially when growing rosette plants like the Echinodorus (Amazon sword) you have there. You have two choices: (1) Re-setup the substrate, or (2) Get and insert root fertiliser balls/sticks/etc. The second option is easier of course, by requires regular top ups (frequency range from weeks to months depending on product).

How thick is your substrate? You should have at least 3 inches for that Echinodorus.

2. What is the prescribed filter material? If there is activated carbon, you should remove them as they will absorb some of the fertilisers in the water.

3. For that amount and type of plants, dose the same amount but less often then directed. Those plants will feed more from the substrate, but water fertilisers will help.

4. Most of us feel CO2 tablets are not effective. Either use CO2 gas injection, or Carbon supplement products like Seachem Excel. For a moderate-low light tank like yours, Excel or similar product will suffice.

6. That sufficient light for a moderate to light tank. I've a tank of similar size and lighting. See
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/galle...ge.php?i=11657

7. Once you get the CO2 and substrate right, you can go for 10 to 12 hours of lighting.

**dennis93a** · 25th Jan 2011, 23:52

Hi Adrian. Noted comment on chlorine. Had water and filter running in tank for at least 3-4 days before planting.
Plants were out of water and in individual plastic bags, kinda flatten out when i bought them.
Do agree with your rationale regarding plants having to readjust after being out of water, especially for the plants
in front of the christmas moss feature.They're really disintegrating.

Vinz,
1.Thanks for teaching me the name of the plant. Yes, i was given root fertiliser sticks on Sunday by a friend who had given up on live plants. Will insert a couple. Yes, i do have 3 inches thickness there.
2.No activated carbon but there is a carbon sponge which is suppose to eradicate chemicals as part of the filtration process.
3.Noted.
4.Noted your advice regarding CO2 and will get Seachem Excel tomorrow.
However please explain why you mentioned " For a moderate-low light tank like yours, Excel or similar product will suffice." How does this relate ?
Is it because there isn't that many plants in the tank ?
6.Wasn't able to access website to take a look.
7.Noted advice on amount of lighting. Using a timer so no problem.

Qns. Could you advice what is the appropriate temperature for my tank having seen the plants.Thanks.

**Shadow** · 26th Jan 2011, 09:47

Originally Posted by dennis93a

However please explain why you mentioned " For a moderate-low light tank like yours, Excel or similar product will suffice." How does this relate ?
Is it because there isn't that many plants in the tank ?

Plants grow rate depend on light. The higher the light intensity, the faster it will grow. The faster it grow the more nutrient (N, P,K, CO2 and trace element) they need. Seachem excel is not as efficient/effective as pressurize CO2, in high intensity it may not be sufficient. You can check the Seachem FAQ below.

This is cut and paster from the website:

Q: Is Flourish Excel a replacement for CO2 in a planted aquarium?

A: Yes and no. It provides the same benefit as CO2, i.e. it provides the plants with a source of carbon for growth just as CO2 provides them with carbon. However CO2 by itself will give you quantitatively more growth than Excel by itself, although Excel does provide a substantial amount in comparison. If CO2 is a 10, Excel is a 6-7. Using both together provides additional benefit. One of the advantages of the Excel is no up front equipment costs and complexity of valves, hoses and regulators, etc.

**vinz** · 26th Jan 2011, 10:19

Originally Posted by dennis93a

Hi Adrian. Noted comment on chlorine. Had water and filter running in tank for at least 3-4 days before planting.
Plants were out of water and in individual plastic bags, kinda flatten out when i bought them.
Do agree with your rationale regarding plants having to readjust after being out of water, especially for the plants
in front of the christmas moss feature.They're really disintegrating.

Vinz,
1.Thanks for teaching me the name of the plant. Yes, i was given root fertiliser sticks on Sunday by a friend who had given up on live plants. Will insert a couple. Yes, i do have 3 inches thickness there.
2.No activated carbon but there is a carbon sponge which is suppose to eradicate chemicals as part of the filtration process.
3.Noted.
4.Noted your advice regarding CO2 and will get Seachem Excel tomorrow.
However please explain why you mentioned " For a moderate-low light tank like yours, Excel or similar product will suffice." How does this relate ?
Is it because there isn't that many plants in the tank ?
6.Wasn't able to access website to take a look.
7.Noted advice on amount of lighting. Using a timer so no problem.

Qns. Could you advice what is the appropriate temperature for my tank having seen the plants.Thanks.

I've not seen problems with plants for the levels of chlorine in our tap water. Plus you have that carbon sponge which should technically take care of the chlorine. Speaking of which, remove that sponge. It is likely to interfere with water fertilisation.

As Robert explained, with only moderate light, the plants will not grow so fast hence will not need as much CO2 (and other nutrients). In my experience, Excel is sufficient for such situation without the hassle of CO2 equipment. Plants growing slowly (but healthily) is not a problem, just a preference. Needs less frequent maintenance, etc.

From the photo, I can't really tell what plant is in front of the moss. I thought it was one of the Anubias family. Did they come on driftwood? If they are Anubias, they should not be planted into the substrate but left on the drift wood with their rhizome exposed above the gravel. A close up picture will be good.

28 degrees Celsius is a attainable goal for a tank in humid Singapore where plants are still comfortable. Maximum, in my opinion, should not exceed 30 degrees Celsius.

My tank with similar dimensions and lighting. Uses Excel, with pond soil under the gravel. Fertilised 3 times a week with ADA Brighty Lights (name of liquid fertiliser, not hardware). Substrate re-energised every few months or so with various root fertilisers.