Help on UP inline CO2 Atomizer

[alvinchan80]

Any fellow forumers are using the brand UP inline CO2 atomizer?
I have set it up inline with my 16/22 hose and the bubble counter seems to be blasting at 3-4bps before I see a fine mist coming out of my outlet..

My old plastic bubble counter actually cracked in the beginning which I suspect is caused by the pressure needed for the atomizer to 'activate'..

Would anyone be able to assist me in telling me how much (bps) would best suit to 'activate' the atomizer.. If I am blasting at 3-4 bps.. I should just monitor the CO2 checker instead of just by reading counter right?

[DYLAN]

I am also using this inline diffuser for my 4' planted tank. This atomizer will require a higher pressure than normal before you are able to see any co2 bubbles diffused. For me I use the drop checker to see if co2 is enough.

[alvinchan80]

I am also using this inline diffuser for my 4' planted tank. This atomizer will require a higher pressure than normal before you are able to see any co2 bubbles diffused. For me I use the drop checker to see if co2 is enough.

This atomizer requires a pressure high enough to 'pitcha' my old plastic bubble counter & I went to purchase the ANS glass bubble counter instead.. But this glass one doesn't give accurate bubble count.. How long would I need to be sitting in front of the tank to ensure co2 emission is good? So I should disregard the bubble count now and just read the color of the checker (morning - blue, afternoon - green & evening - little yellow) right?

Also does it mean that no mist out of the lily pipe outlet means no co2 is diffuse into the water?

[DYLAN]

This atomizer requires a pressure high enough to 'pitcha' my old plastic bubble counter & I went to purchase the ANS glass bubble counter instead.. But this glass one doesn't give accurate bubble count.. How long would I need to be sitting in front of the tank to ensure co2 emission is good? So I should disregard the bubble count now and just read the color of the checker (morning - blue, afternoon - green & evening - little yellow) right?

Also does it mean that no mist out of the lily pipe outlet means no co2 is diffuse into the water?

In my opinion, no mist does not mean no dissolved co2. My drop checker shows green at most timing and yellowish green during the evening. Another method to determine CO2 will be to use the PH/KH relation chart to determine the CO2 ppm. I am still using the plastic bubble counter and it has yet to be broken. Anyway, my setup is as follows: -

Intake=> diffuser=> canister=> chiller=> tank

[alvinchan80]

In my opinion, no mist does not mean no dissolved co2. My drop checker shows green at most timing and yellowish green during the evening. Another method to determine CO2 will be to use the PH/KH relation chart to determine the CO2 ppm. I am still using the plastic bubble counter and it has yet to be broken. Anyway, my setup is as follows: -

Intake=> diffuser=> canister=> chiller=> tank

Oh... It's safe for your canister to set it that way? I was afraid of air lock in the canister so I set it this way:

Intake - canister - chiller - atomizer - tank

[Shadow]

Would anyone be able to assist me in telling me how much (bps) would best suit to 'activate' the atomizer.. If I am blasting at 3-4 bps.. I should just monitor the CO2 checker instead of just by reading counter right?

Assuming there is no leak between your CO2 tank and diffuser, even at 1bps will activate the atomizer. It just that you need to wait longer. for example with 3bps you might seen mist coming out within 10 minutes and if you drop it to 1bps, you need to wait 60 minutes before seeing any mist (assuming that is not 100% disolve)

How long would I need to be sitting in front of the tank to ensure co2 emission is good? So I should disregard the bubble count now and just read the color of the checker (morning - blue, afternoon - green & evening - little yellow) right?

Drop checker is good to have as indicator but it does not show real time, means it take a while before you see any color change. It take maybe 1 to 2 or even 3 hours before you see color change. It is good to indicate that CO2 worked in your tank but it is not good indicator for lack of CO2.

Put in this scenario:
you set you CO2 bps and turn ON timing so that it show green color when the light turn on. Does it mean enough CO2? Maybe, most likely not

About 4hrs later after light ON, plants are photosynthesis at it maximum speed thus it require more CO2. This is where the problem begin, like it or not drop checker will not be able to detect such sudden change. It will still showing green. You only know something not right when three/four weeks later algae taking over.

How to prevent it? Aim a bit higher something like yellowish green. That way duing the max speed the CO2 level still in the acceptable range. Aiming for yellow also OK as long as you fauna does not show indication of discomfort like gasping for air

Another method to determine CO2 will be to use the PH/KH relation chart to determine the CO2 ppm.

Will not work if you are using ADA soil or other soil that alter the water pH/kH.

Oh... It's safe for your canister to set it that way? I was afraid of air lock in the canister so I set it this way:
Intake - canister - chiller - atomizer - tank

Why don't you put atomizer before chiller? longer time in the water disolve better. Cool water also help dissolve it.

[alvinchan80]

I wanted put before the chiller but there are lots of bubble sound previously when I using Boyu diffusor...

Now there is another OOPS.. I seems to have blast in too high CO2 last night because I don't see mist.. Hope I don't see any sleeping shrimps when I home tonight..

[DYLAN]

Lucky me, I have not notice any air lock in the canister or anything abnormal. My theory of installing the diffuser before the canister is so that it has more time to dissolve and react with the water.