Help! What do I need to make this chiller setup work?

[jonathandowers]

I picked up a used chiller for a great price: Prime Aquarium Water Chiller Model# 2635

However, the required flow rate is between 300-720 gph.

I can't find any definitive guide on how to pair a canister filter/pump. Apparently the flow rate is not the actual measured resulting flow rate, but the minimum power required for a pump.

What do I need to make this setup work? I have a eheim 2213, which is only rated at 116 gph. Is there a way to boost the canister's pump or some sort of inline pump? Or am I just worrying too much?

[eviltrain]

Just add a higher power pump will do. Mainwhile, just off your canister. This should do the job.

[jonathandowers]

Just add a higher power pump will do. Mainwhile, just off your canister. This should do the job.

To clarify: The 2213 can run this chiller just fine for now?

And what type of pump am I looking for (I'm pretty new to all this)? Will I be using a submersible unit to run the chiller/heater separately from the filter, or is there a way to upgrade the canister motor?

[eviltrain]

Haha. No way to upgrade unless you buy new one.

My method will be tank to canister to external pump to chiller to tank. I place the pump between the canister and pump because the higher flow rate might increase the pressure in the canister directly, causing the canister to leak.

[ladygaga]

Haha. No way to upgrade unless you buy new one.

My method will be tank to canister to external pump to chiller to tank. I place the pump between the canister and pump because the higher flow rate might increase the pressure in the canister directly, causing the canister to leak.

Yes, better use a in-line external pump (out of water) since they are air-cooled meanwhile the heat generated by pump will not release to the water.

[jonathandowers]

Yes, better use a in-line external pump (out of water) since they are air-cooled meanwhile the heat generated by pump will not release to the water.

Alright, will look for an inline pump. However, connecting them inline still does not address the fact that the canister is only designed for 116 gph. Since the inline pump is relatively *much* more powerful than canister pump, it would create negative pressure within the canister and/or put unnecessary strain on the inline pump.

Is there such a thing as an variable resistance/pressure inline pump? As in, it'll adjust it's flow rate according to the input resistance?

If not, the only other option I can think of is to have the lines separately, or upgrade the canister filter (I haven't opened it yet, and can still return it).

What do you guys think?

[eviltrain]

haha, this way you just return and get a more powerful canister ( you will have to top up usually ).

by the way, what is your tanks size?

[jonathandowers]

haha, this way you just return and get a more powerful canister ( you will have to top up usually ).

by the way, what is your tanks size?

You will laugh if I tell you

[vinz]

We'll laugh, but treat it seriously too.

If your tank is large enough for that flow rate, you can get a pump with the correct flow rate (don't just meet the minimal flow rate. You should aim to meet the maximum flow rate as pumps and filters will slow down due to media and other inline equipment and wear and tear). Also get a pre-filter. Your set up would be tank -> pre-filter -> pump -> chiller -> tank. Your existing filter, setup as normal.

Pumps run 24/7, usually UNsupervised by knowledgeable people for the most part of the day. I would recommend getting a reliable proven brand like Eheim for safety sake, even though they are more expensive. Avoid cheapo, unknown brands that may overheat in Singapore's hot/summer climate.

If your tank is too small, the higher flow rate may cause turbulence (whirlpool) in your tank. Not a good situation. If that is the case, then your options are:
(a) Sell/put aside the current chiller, get another one suitable for your tank and filter flow rate.
(b) (May not work well enough, depending on size of tank) split the output from the filter to 2 or 3 and distribute across the tank.
(c) (Troublesome) Run the chiller with a pump into a sump. Set up your tank to overflow into the sump and your existing filter to draw water from the sump and output into your tank. Given this unusual set up, make sure you have a check valve in case your filter output hose to prevent back flow (especially if the sump is lower then the tank) if your filter stops for any reason.

[eviltrain]

You will laugh if I tell you

yah, but laugh is laugh. now main concern is will the higher power canister turns your tank into a washing machine or not. hee hee

[jonathandowers]

We'll laugh, but treat it seriously too.

If your tank is large enough for that flow rate, you can get a pump with the correct flow rate (don't just meet the minimal flow rate. You should aim to meet the maximum flow rate as pumps and filters will slow down due to media and other inline equipment and wear and tear). Also get a pre-filter. Your set up would be tank -> pre-filter -> pump -> chiller -> tank. Your existing filter, setup as normal.

Pumps run 24/7, usually UNsupervised by knowledgeable people for the most part of the day. I would recommend getting a reliable proven brand like Eheim for safety sake, even though they are more expensive. Avoid cheapo, unknown brands that may overheat in Singapore's hot/summer climate.

If your tank is too small, the higher flow rate may cause turbulence (whirlpool) in your tank. Not a good situation. If that is the case, then your options are:
(a) Sell/put aside the current chiller, get another one suitable for your tank and filter flow rate.
(b) (May not work well enough, depending on size of tank) split the output from the filter to 2 or 3 and distribute across the tank.
(c) (Troublesome) Run the chiller with a pump into a sump. Set up your tank to overflow into the sump and your existing filter to draw water from the sump and output into your tank. Given this unusual set up, make sure you have a check valve in case your filter output hose to prevent back flow (especially if the sump is lower then the tank) if your filter stops for any reason.

Solid advice, thank you. What is a prefilter (is it just a lightweight sponge covering)? And the prefilter->chiller line will be separate from the main tank filter line correct?

Any tips on splitting output across multiple tanks? I didn't know such a thing was possible. In particular, how do you displace/suck in the same amount of water across the tanks? If there's a keyword/name of a method I can search for, please let me know

This is for a ridiculously small, 12g long tank.

Originally, I was aiming for a low tech setup, so I bought the tank first. Then I realized we get 90°+ summers (target temperature is 76°). If I had a bigger tank, I would go the fan + topping out route; however, I am out of town for days at a time (and there's not much water to work with).

For now, I'm looking for a temporary solution until I make space for a proper tank. Just managed to pick up this chiller for 60% off locally.

And Alan, I'm looking to keep CRS. This will indeed turn out to be a shrimp washing machine. Maybe I can open up a drive through service (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VfSl0iGAus )

[vinz]

There are different types of pre-filter. Normally meant to prevent coarse debris or small livestock from entering the filter plumbing.

The most common kind are just a simple sponge designed to fit over the inlet, like these: http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PreFilter.html

There are external ones that are basically simple containers with an inlet and outlet. Instead of elaborate layers of media, they are simply stuffed with coarse filter pads/foam/sponge. The better designed ones should have valves and are easily detached from the line for cleaning. These are not meant for keeping livestock from entering the hoses. But easier to clean and longer use between cleaning. I can't recall a brand or find them in Google.

Some newer canister filters (like Eheim Ecco Pro series) have them built in or rather re-positioned (from the traditional design) for easy removal and cleaning.

I didn't mean split across multiple tanks, but rather distribute the outlets to different parts on one tank. For humongous tanks, this is a necessary strategy to ensure good water circulation (or multiple filters).

You can split across multiple tanks, but not advisable. Other then sharing chilled water, you'll be sharing all the diseases and algae outbreaks across tanks. To use one chiller for multiple tanks, you can still the sump method, but instead of drawing water from the sump into the tanks, use individual filters for each tank and install metal coils (not copper, especially for shrimp) inline with the filter plumbing. Of course, submerge the coils in the sump. The problem with that is, you cannot individually control the temperature of each tank. However, if the tanks are similarly sized, placed in the same environment, same exposure to other heat sources, same flow rate, same coils, etc. you SHOULD pretty much be allowed to assume that the temperature movements in all tanks are the same and you can place an external thermostat in one of them. Obviously, NOT an efficient system.

If you intend to draw from a common sump to multiple tanks, your aquariums have to be set up with an overflow return. If the pump or filter stop for any reason, they will stop overflowing. Best if there are individual pumps for each tank, but if you use a single pump or filter and split the output, the overflow will still work even if the flow is different for each tank.

Viable set ups, but neither efficient nor ideal.

[eviltrain]

hee hee,lets say if you gets a 400GPH ( 1500LPH ) divide by the 12G (45 litres) tank you have will be a wooping 33.3 times turn over rate ( minus all the media packed in).

For my current breeding tank is 14 gallon (54 litres ), 2x1x1 feet tank. my Ehiem 2026 is rated 250GPH (950LPH), but due to the equipments i place inline

( tank -> pre filter -> Ehiem 2026 ( main ) -> Jet 3688 ( Dummy ) -> Haliea 150A -> tank)

, my flow rate actually dropped 1/2 to around 125-130 GPH (470-500 LPH) . 130GPH / 14 Gallon (500 LPH / 54 Litres) will give me around 9-10 times water cycle rate through the canister.the prefilter is stuff with white wool, both canister i'm using is pack with medias.



and the shrimps are happily breeding in my tank.