Problem with Resun CL 300

[redsuns]

Hi guys,

Need some advice on my chiller, I set my chiller to 24 and it will only cool and kick out at 24(on the Chiller LCD) and my thermometer shows around 25. The chiller will almost immediately switch to 25 on its chiller LCD which will be a true reflection of the temperature in the tank(according to my thermometer).

My Concern is, it doesnt cool the water temperature to 24 when I set it to be 24 and almost immediately change to 25 as mentioned above, and it will kick in at 26(kicks in when there is a 2degree difference).

Any guys experienced that problem before and know what is potentially wrong?

Currently running The Resun CL 300 in a 60x30x36, 6mm tank powered by Eheim Pro 2224 with a flowrate of 700l/h

Thanks

[ZackZhou]

Redsun:
Reason for this I can only say it due to not enough flow rate, if your chiller is working.
Your ehiem filter I assume is packed with media + filter wool? If that's the case I do suggest it's because of flowrate issue.
I'm using ecco pro 2036, with a flow rate of 750 lph. It's about the same as you when I packed it full.
What I did is remove one layer of media and added another ehiem to run my 2 feet tank, same dimension as yours I assume. The problem is temp solved.
I assume that your filter inlet is sponge? Cuz I saw that you're keeping shrimp, sponge will reduce flow rate as well and most importantly is that you clean the sponge weekly

[redsuns]

Hi Zack, thanks for your response. My filter is packed with media and filter wool, yup and I was going to run my ecco 2232 when its decom from my old tank. I also half expected it to be the flowrate rate issue but wasnt entirely sure. You had the exact same problem as me? Are you using a resun too?

Yup, I am keeping shrimps but I am using filter mesh, not sponge.

[ZackZhou]

I'm using a hs-28a. Redsun, you got your mesh from Gc? Do not use. Shrimplet still goes in.

[redsuns]

Icic, yup, from GC, I have been using that for quite a few months already in my previous setup and no shrimplets were sucked in. So I guess its fine?

[ZackZhou]

Haha. Up to you den. I used and I can see very tiny shrimplets in my canister.

[RonWill]

...I can see very tiny shrimplets in my canister.

Perfect addition to a biological filtration system, shrimplets helping to clean areas you can't reach. Do update whether these grow any faster than those in main tank. Alternatively, perhaps a finer pore-size sponge might reduce stragglers from being sucked in.

[jeffteo]

Hi guys,

Need some advice on my chiller, I set my chiller to 24 and it will only cool and kick out at 24(on the Chiller LCD) and my thermometer shows around 25. The chiller will almost immediately switch to 25 on its chiller LCD which will be a true reflection of the temperature in the tank(according to my thermometer).

My Concern is, it doesnt cool the water temperature to 24 when I set it to be 24 and almost immediately change to 25 as mentioned above, and it will kick in at 26(kicks in when there is a 2degree difference).

Any guys experienced that problem before and know what is potentially wrong?

Currently running The Resun CL 300 in a 60x30x36, 6mm tank powered by Eheim Pro 2224 with a flowrate of 700l/h

Thanks

Have you tired re-calibrate the chiller to the same temp as the tank. Press and hold SET till it change to CL(something like that, can't recall if correct) then press down to -1.
For a 2 feet tank, 700 L/H should be enough. If you want very accurate temperature reading or lesser kick in, only way is to mod the thermostat into the tank and insulate the tank. Even just insulating one side, maybe the back glass makes a difference.

[redsuns]

Have you tired re-calibrate the chiller to the same temp as the tank. Press and hold SET till it change to CL(something like that, can't recall if correct) then press down to -1.
For a 2 feet tank, 700 L/H should be enough. If you want very accurate temperature reading or lesser kick in, only way is to mod the thermostat into the tank and insulate the tank. Even just insulating one side, maybe the back glass makes a difference.

Hi, yup, I re-calibrated, and took out some of my media in the main canister, monitoring it now, hopefully it will solve the problem. For insulating, I am thinking of getting the air con foam to cover my hose and as for insulating the back of the glass, how do you insulate? Placing a foam? Thanks

[jeffteo]

Not necessary to insulate the hose. The rubber hose is quite thick and will not lost heat as fast as glass.
Styrofoam board will do to insulate the glass. I place it on all 3 sides of my tank except the front. I did not secure it as i have things by the side of the tank to hold them in place.
Location of the tank and the chiller plays a part too. Tank should not be near heat source and chiller should have 1 feet clearance in front and back for proper air circulation.
If space constrain, the front can have lesser clearance but not the back where hot air is blown out.

[redsuns]

I think its the flowrate problem as CL 300 recommends a flowrate of >900l/h and my canister at tops is only 700l/h. I took out more media and the sponge and it has improved alot already but maybe I should look to trade for a chiller with a lesser flowrate requirement as anything more, my 2 feet is going to be a washing machine!

[jeffteo]

You still can have high flow rate for a 2 feet. You can attach a hose and another bigger hose on the output to make it bigger. The bigger the hole of the output the gentle the flow. I am doing that on my 10L Nano with a 2213 of 400 L/H and no issue for my shrimps.
Or you can split the output into 2 or 3 using hose splitter. Or use spray bar and enlarge all the holes on it.
But before that you need to increase the flow rate by adding an external pump in between the filter and the chiller.

If you really want to trade, I have a CL280 but the recommended flow rate is also >900 L/H I think. So... PM me if you interested.

[redsuns]

You still can have high flow rate for a 2 feet. You can attach a hose and another bigger hose on the output to make it bigger. The bigger the hole of the output the gentle the flow. I am doing that on my 10L Nano with a 2213 of 400 L/H and no issue for my shrimps.
Or you can split the output into 2 or 3 using hose splitter. Or use spray bar and enlarge all the holes on it.
But before that you need to increase the flow rate by adding an external pump in between the filter and the chiller.

If you really want to trade, I have a CL280 but the recommended flow rate is also >900 L/H I think. So... PM me if you interested.

I am currently using a rainbar and have it submerged and point upwards, if not my soil would fly about. Maybe I would enlarge the holes.
I have just pm-ed you.

[redsuns]

Hey Guys, currently my chiller is running for around 10-15 mins and then rest for around 45mins-1 hour. Is it normal already?

[Numbskull]

Hey Guys, currently my chiller is running for around 10-15 mins and then rest for around 45mins-1 hour. Is it normal already?

yup. That should be roughly the ideal kick-in kick-out time.

[redsuns]

Thanks alot guys!