Gex soil disintegrating - How long can it last? - Saw this question. Why...?

[Blankies]

Gex soil disintegrating - How long can it last? - Saw this question. Why are the folks so concerned about the Gex Soil Disintegrating?

[stormhawk]

All soil-type substrate will degrade over time. Think of it going from a solid roundish pebble state into what is basically mud. This occurs usually after 2 years I think. The concern is normal, because when the soil compacts into a muddy layer, it may affect the plant roots. Of course, it will look unsightly to some people.

[theludicrous]

All soil-type substrate will degrade over time. Think of it going from a solid roundish pebble state into what is basically mud. This occurs usually after 2 years I think. The concern is normal, because when the soil compacts into a muddy layer, it may affect the plant roots. Of course, it will look unsightly to some people.

is it still usable? we just need to top up with fertilizers right?

[stormhawk]

It is still usable but you will probably need to supplement the nutrition for the roots via fertiliser root tabs or balls.

[Blankies]

So how does muddy soil is bad for plants?
Now I got Gex soil red color pack. Should I mix with some small gravels?

[stormhawk]

If the soil compacts into a thick layer of mud, it may deprive the plant roots of oxygen. If you wish to mix the soil with gravel, that is entirely up to you. I use fine river sand with GEX green and red soils.

[felix_fx2]

When that happens. Time to do up the tank again.

[Blankies]

I see. So when the beaded soil becomes mud, it deprives the root of oxygen.

So now, if i pre-mix a high concnetration of maybe 60percent gravel to 40 percent GEX soil, I suppose 1-2 years down the road, i do not need to re do the tank?

[Panther]

I'm new to soil use but this is what i think...

No use mixing with gravel as you want to make use of the nutrients in the soil for your plants. That's the whole purpose of using soil instead of gravel. Using soil also allows for the roots to have more oxygen as it is less compact than gravel (which is harder and can be more compact if you use the fine type). Thus back to what you mentioned, if you use 60/40 gravel to soil, you don't have the max nutrient and the soil will still break down eventually, bringing you back to square one with gravel and mud and no fert.

Why not just use 100% soil and add in fert tabs when the soil breaks down (nutrients absorbed) or re-do the tank when the soil turns to mud (good excuse to re-scape). Alternatively, use gravel and lay a bed of good base fert and revert back to the old days before soil use became common.

[felix_fx2]

Just change soil when it breaks down to near mud level.

[stormhawk]

To be honest, it is not actually soil. Just some sort of peat material plus some soil and other additives (probably clay) that is coated around small pieces of gravel bits. You will see the actual "gravel" appearing after awhile, as the coating drops off. The nutrients present, if any, will not last past 2 years, hence the need to use a base fertiliser layer, which also will not last past 2 years if you have a plant with an extensive root system.

Basic point is, even though the soil will eventually turn to mud, irregardless of which method you use (mixing/no mix/no base fert) etc, the use of root tabs and such will be necessary down the road. Note, the larger the particle size of the GEX soil, the more easier it gets to trap uneaten food and other gunk in the tank. If you wish, you can use the larger particles for the bottom layer, and the finer particles (red bag) for the upper layer. Before you do this, lay a piece of flexible plastic mesh on top of the coarse particles and then lay the finer particles on top of it. Otherwise the larger particles will rise up slowly over time. The use of this mesh prevents the larger particles from going up beyond the current layer it is at.