most noises from the air pump is because of its vibration. Normally I just cut a piece of filter wool and place under it, probably reduce the noise level by 80%~ or so.
No way to mitigate except to place the air stones at a deeper level. That way the bubbles take longer to rise to the surface, so you don't hear the "pop" sound so much. The pump by itself makes minimal noise, which can be dampened by placing it in a sound proof box or something similar.
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most noises from the air pump is because of its vibration. Normally I just cut a piece of filter wool and place under it, probably reduce the noise level by 80%~ or so.
I was talking to Ecalyte sometime ago and he mentioned some kind of contraption related to UGF that will have the bubbles burst in a tube above water or something that can mitigate the noise and the splashes. Haven't gotten around to exploring that though. Think I'll stick to the W flow idea for now.
My primary worry is not the pump noise, even my powerhead is sitting on a thick piece of foam in the sump. Haha. Its the bubbling and splashing noises I'm leery of. Thanks for the tip nonetheless![]()
I got an idea on how to reduce the noise from the bubbles.
You can probably do this with a PVC U-tube. At the top, you have a check valve going one way out, attached to a short piece of airline tubing with a control valve at the end (not shown). This acts to bleed any excess air. The green sections are fine SS mesh held in place with PVC end caps so no shrimps get trapped inside. The patchy black area is some filter sponge stuffed in to prevent any bubbles from escaping. Or just replace the mesh on the exit part with a sponge that can fit over the tube. It's basically a circulating system but also works to dampen the bubbling sound since the airstone will be within the tube itself.
This is like the uplift tube for the Satellite boxes, but with an extension to direct flow back into the tank. The wavy line is the water line, so the upper section where the bleeder is should always be above water. You might have to tinker with it for awhile.
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I am not sure if this device selling at GC will help with the bubble noise http://www.gcshop-sg.com/product_vie...ipp=100&stm=-1
Somehow, it doesn't show how the bubbles will eventually escape.
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Bro, you're truly a master of MS paint. Thanks for the taking the time to do this up.
Would this design help with water movement? The "down pipe" part may not get sufficient flow? Or was it meant to bubble the water over to the other side?
From this video, it seemed to be more for marine tank?
I think it should help, at least a little since it's basically a reverse sponge filter. I think you can modify a small sponge filter to do this. That way you don't have to spend too much to experiment. Or, you can DIY a mini K1 media reactor bottle with a cheap airstone. I found this interesting DIY thread where this Irishman modified a sponge filter with a K1 reactor outlet:
http://www.irishfishkeepers.com/inde...ing-bed-filter
This Totto product looks cool but I didn't see it at GC when I was there. It diffuses the flow of the bubbles going by the video. Might be worthwhile for your rack but I don't think it will add much circulation.
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I don't whether did they remove it there was a sample running in the 4ft tank that house the fire red 2 weeks ago. I was looking at it for sometimes and thinking of something like your idea.
The irsh man mod is good DIY but it will still bubbling sound but not as
Loud basically with that k1 reactor it does reduce some sound. What I see in that totto one is basically reduce splashing from bubbles also I think it another function is to have more oxygen trap the water creating more oxygen rich enviroment. If you have a relief valve it will just be like the k1 reactor or just a circulation device. For your bro stormhawk to me is more like a circulation devices.
ralliart, sorry I missed your post. The insect mesh does well as a moss wall with support from sucker pads. The grid size should be big enough for the fronds to grow out from. Refer to these links:
http://www.killies.com/Mosswall.htm - by timebomb
http://www.killies.com/Ronnie%27smosswall.htm - by Ronwill
@avex30,
The Totto serves it purpose but for what it's worth, the DIY by Navanod in a separate DIY thread was just as good. Though I must admit, the movement of the bubbles in a undulating fashion within the Totto is quite nice to look at. IMO, the circulation is directed downwards so it is concentrated at a certain spot. I prefer something that would create more water movement at the end of the tank which has lack of water circulation.
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...839#post660839
Last edited by stormhawk; 20th Apr 2012 at 08:39.
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No worries, you didn't miss my question (I only posted the question recently while I'm going through my old subscribed threads).
Any way, the reason I asked is because they (insect screening mesh) are "floppy" material & since rigid alternatives like stainless steel mesh with competitive fine grid are available, why not use the rigid alternative?
Any idea how the Totto achieves that?
Why not a Tunze nanoStream?
The floppy material was an early design, which worked but had its drawbacks. Some people have modified it by using the plastic mesh and then attaching it to a rigid piece of egg crate, thus creating a more stable wall. Of course anyone can use SS mesh to do a moss wall, but if you have leftover plastic mesh, it has its purposes.
I have no idea how the Totto device achieves that movement of the bubbles. My guess is probably because of the enclosed structure with the open side right at the bottom. Maybe with slower flow of air, it might not undulate, but the current that it generates is quite gentle, albeit in a single direction.
The NanoStream is not suitable for shrimp tanks, since the slits are big enough for a shrimp to wander in and get killed by the rotating blades, hence the need for aerators like airstones and such.
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Yes I saw the holes on the show unit at GC. Perhaps Don can tell us which one he prefers. The Totto or his DIY bottle method.![]()
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I think, for the TOTTO, we are getting a very nice looking product and a very high quality airstone that produce alot of fine bubbles with relatively minimal pressure. It does the job of providing aeration without the splashes and very minimal noise.
However, water movement is restricted to the base of the thing and comes out alternatively on the left and right, depending on the undulating movement.
How this movement is achieve I cannot really explained, but perhaps the force of air pushing on one side and the release of that force from the other builds up till a high point, then collapses and change side?
As for my DIY, I had made some revision and showed the final version
I quite liked it, as it achieves all my requirement for splash control, noise and also provides water movement throughout the water column from bottom to top. But its ugly and bulky and somewhat fragile.
I'm thinking of using smaller, but more tightly spaces bottles instead to achieve the same effect with a smaller footprint.
You could try getting a solid transparent pipe and punch minute holes through the entire length of it. When the air stone is placed at the bottom of the pipe, air is channeled upwards through the pipe and as well as sideways due to air being able to escape through the holes. This should be able to solve your water movement throughout your tank and yet still look pretty.
Need something to scratch that itchy hand of mine.
Don't act smart. Be smart!
The idea was to channel the bubbles into the "bell shaped trap" at the top so they burst inside the dome and contained the splashes. If the bubbles escape from the sides, they'll still burst at the surface and cause sprays.
There are plenty of escapes and they are normally expelled from the bubble trap almost immediately
Why not just get a cheap $10 pump and force the water flow that way.. Haha..
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