Reply With QuoteJianyuan> You read my mine on the tank size (45cmx45cmx35cm tank), but i'm still not able to find 1 with that specs. Let's say I can locate the tank as u have mention, please advice if Resun CL200 and Eheim 2026 do the trick?
Thanks bro.
Shizhen does provide that usage purposes, and what if a newly started hobbyist saw that remark and happiy dose in more then the stated amount of shizhen or even add it in as and when he feels like it. There'll be a sharp drop in pH, this would have stress out the shrimps instead of what has been said of helping with stress.
That aside, how high gH is high for the solidness of your shrimps? Do you mean solidness of color or the shell thickness?
And assuming TS is going for the 45cmx45cmx35cm tank, its roughly 63itres of tank volume and with a 2213 at 300 litres/h. With medias added in the flow will be cut by 20-30%. And if a chiller is hooked on, that'll result in another drop in flowrate. Many people believe in having at least a 5 times your tank volume flowrate to ensure cleanliness of the tank water. With all the drop in flowrate, i beloeve its not nearly at 3 times flowrate of the tank volume.
And if TS were to get a 1/10 hp chiller, most people believe in using a chiller one step higher then what you need, this is to prevent your chiller from overworking and shortening its lifespan. A low flowrate will result in frequent kick in for the chiller too, likewise if your flow is too fast. Uness your chiller is modified with an external thermoprobe.
Jianyuan> You read my mine on the tank size (45cmx45cmx35cm tank), but i'm still not able to find 1 with that specs. Let's say I can locate the tank as u have mention, please advice if Resun CL200 and Eheim 2026 do the trick?
Thanks bro.
Cant comment in resun chiller as i personally have not used it before. However im using the hailea hs28a with an eheim 2224 flowrate of 700litres/h on a 2x1x1 feet tank which is about 56litres. Had an issue with frequent kick in of my chiller before, till i modified it with an external thermoprobe. Flowrate for me is still alright, play with the rainbar if you find flowrate too strong. After a period of running the filters, i believe your flowrate would have dropped further due to the clogging of the filter wool. You can read around for more ideas regarding filteration and then settle for one that you're comfortable with. Its better to overfilter then to underfilter. Of course not overfilter to the extent your tank becomes a washing machine.
Ok maybe just for my case. I using a eheim 2213 --> Arttica 1/10 chiller ---> tank. After using the rainbar at the brink, poke holes submerging the rainbar in the water, my eheim 2213 media bottom to top(sponge,cr s/m, biohomme plus, eheim subtrate pro, wool). I still get a whirlpool in my 2ft tank. Maybe my is a overpowered eheim 2213. My chiller kicks in every 1hr or so. and temperature sensor is work fine. Having the almost the same temperature as my tds meter.
The last time I went all the way up to 8-9gh. then I low it down to 5gh.
If he was getting a 1/10 chiller then 2213 might not be a good choice. but he does not need a 1/10 for the size of the tank. 1/10 can chill all the way to 3ft. If he thinking of upgrading then it maybe a good choice then 2213 is not a good choice.
In the end. It depends if he is planning for future upgrade or not.
still learning the hard way!!
The reason why your tank is a whirlpool is because you're using a rainbar, some more your rain bar is not even stretched across the entire 2 ft. Don't advice people to get an underpowered filter for their system because yours is set up differently. You go try buy a lily pipe outlet and see still whirlpool or not.
You don't run a pre-filter and you say you don't need to maintain a filter regularly? Exactly how long is your 'regularly' and how long are you intending on maintaining your filter?
Do you even realise that your bio media pores will get clogged from the bi-product waste of the bacteria from their nitrification? And that if you don't have a good pre-filter system this will happen faster than you think? And also that without cleaning of the bio media, water flow can no longer go to the areas where your bacteria are at, and hence they will die due to lack of food causing a major ammonia spike in your tank? This is what happens when your tank CRASHES.
Yes definitely there is some truth in what you say, but like I said before.. they're only half-truth, or half-correct. Simply because you cannot just take one application and use it across ALL circumstances. Yes, the packaging says it protects from stress, but the application of this product needs to be explained as it has an acidic property that is NOT explained. This is my point and if you don't get it, I'm just going to let you continue give bad advice until someone's tank crashes and bite you in the 'behind'.
Like I said.. please don't give advice on topic that you're proving time and again extremely unfamiliar with and have very little basic knowledge of. I never asked you to stop contributing your experiences, but don't give it as ADVICE to people asking for help if you're not 100% sure of the topic. That's like you visiting a doctor with an unknown ailment, then doctor not very sure but never mind anyhow say you have cancer and make you go chemo. Stupid right???
Am I the only one here that feels very strongly about this?
To the Thread Starter, your choice of canister filter will depend on your own preference. Even if you get an overpowered filter, you can just get the appropriate-sized double tap and adjust the output flow accordingly. Ask yourself, where do you find your hobby in 3-4 months? If everything goes smoothly, what do you envisage your hobby to be like? A tank upgrade? More sensitive species? More tanks even? When you can safely answer all these questions, then you take stock of what you're currently intending to get. If you're already seeing yourself with a bigger tank 3-4 months down the line, why not just buy the bigger tank now? If you find yourself more likely to buy more tanks than to upgrade your existing tank, then ok.. let's start with whatever your budget will allow you to pursue.
Curve tanks are much harder to find specific dimensions, and even more expensive to custom make. A smaller percentage of hobbyist prefer the curved tanks, but if you're after specific dimensions then I really urge you to get the 5-glass-silicone type. A crystal glass tank with impeccable workmanship will put curve tanks to shame. Think about it.. East Ocean at Havelock road has a selection of Crystal Glass tanks of varying sizes. At least have a look first to see if it tickles your fancy
Let's go on towards filtration. Gimmicks aside, we have to talk about two things when considering a filter. One is the flow, and the other is the media volume. This is because bacteria requires some contact time with the water to actually efficiently perform nitrification. If you have a very small media volume basket, and a huge filter flow rate.. trust me, you will not be performing much nitrification at all. That's why you see Canister filters start to increase in size as the flow-rate goes up. I feel that a 2026 with a 1/10HP chiller is a good solution (i feel 2026 still a bit strong for 2ft tanks) for tanks as small as 2ft, below that and you'll have to reduce the flow manually through the use of double taps or an in-built flow controller (if your canister has one). Of course, once you start to use this setup, you're doing so with a future upgrade in mind. If you don't see yourself upgrading in the next 3-4 months, then I suggest you go for something along the lines of 500-700L/Hr flow. Keep the 1/10HP chiller, it should come with a 12/16mm hose size connector so that's fine. I'm using a Hailea 28S and it's serving me well. You could take a look at that.
Always, always use a pre-filter. This way, you only need to maintain your pre-filter when your flow starts to reduce due to clogging, and your main canister once every 6 months. What's a prefilter? It's basically a filter container without a motor. Most people (myself included) use it to stuff all our mechanical filtration media in there; a fancy way of saying wool. So you basically just stuff your filter wool in the prefilter so you don't have to put any wool in your canister. Just need your bio media. Let me show you a pictorial representation of how good a pre-filter is at its job.
Look at the front two pre-filters from the right. Can you imagine that amount of filth being in my canister filter? How can you not do regular maintenance on your canister filter after knowing this?
So before I can give you more detailed advice, perhaps it'll be prudent for you to take a step back and plan 3-4 months ahead.. imagine a hobby with no problems and smooth sailing, where would you like to be in 3-4 months? And then we can start planning your setup towards that goal, rather than change it later when you get there.
Last edited by Ecalyte; 13th Dec 2011 at 13:30.
Neondagger bro, you're using the best of the best Arctica chiller. It has very good temperature probe positioned at a good spot so that it'll not misread the temperature and kick in the chiller every 15 mins, no matter how slow the flow rate is.
Have you tried Resun and Hailea before? These chillers needs rather high flow to aggressively mix the water in the chamber or the temperature probe will sense the chamber temperature instead and kick out. Then awhile later, kick in again as the chamber warms up. That's why people do external probes so that it sense the real tank temperature and only stop when the tank reach the set point.
Sorry to barge in. But where can i get the external probe done?Originally Posted by Navanod
Shrimp tank FTW!
There's a shop in Sim Lim tower that sells it. Search the forums, a few bros had posted their works. Or you can just buy a temperature controller.
Search for bro Gryphon's thread on his shrimp journal. He posted it there.
temperature controller? u mean like a digital thermometer?
Shrimp tank FTW!
A temperature controller is not a digital thermometer.
Its a stand alone digital thermometer with its own temperature probe. It is powered from the wall socket through a 3 pins plug and then have an outlet where you can plug other equipment in.
The outlet from the controller is controlled based on the temperature and turns on/off at whatever temperatures you set it to. If you plug the chiller to it, you can set the chiller to 20 degrees C and the controller to 25 degrees. Below 26 degrees, the controller switches off the chiller totally. When temperature hits 26, the power comes on and the chiller turns on. The chiller then sense that the temperature is above its own set point of 20 degrees C and kicks in. when temperature falls to 25, the controller switches off the chiller again.
Perhaps you might understand thermostat better. Meanwhile, please note your usage of SMS lingo.
I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee
Sorry boss, i thought he meant it as using as a digital thermometer only. Yes i did read up prior to modifying my chiller. Thanks for kind gesture
Ive made an effort and typed without using any SMS lingos.
I understand now. Thanks for your patience! Really appreciate it!
Shrimp tank FTW!
JianYuan, my earlier comment regarding SMS lingo was for "mimin5zidane". You are doing ok and there's no need for a yellow card!
I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee
Oh! Sorry Mod! Will take note of that. Will try to be more careful next time round.JianYuan, my earlier comment regarding SMS lingo was for "mimin5zidane". You are doing ok and there's no need for a yellow card!
Shrimp tank FTW!
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks