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Thread: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

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    Oryzias woworae should be nice with the Sulawesi shrimps though I reckon the woworae may snack on any shrimplets if your Sulawesi shrimps breed.
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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by PupiPupi View Post
    I thought so too. I thought of.trimming away tge affected leaves.

    Tapatalking with my Galaxy S2

    best to trim off affected leave , bba is quite tough unless you direct dose it with excel

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    PupiPupi's Sulawesi Shrimps

    Quote Originally Posted by limz_777 View Post
    best to trim off affected leave , bba is quite tough unless you direct dose it with excel
    I just found out that I actually have staghorn algae... Dosing with Seachem Flourish Excel. Hope it will help.

    Meanwhile, help me welcome my new tank mates! 2 Congo tetras and 2 unidentified but very costly shrimps!




    Tapatalking with my Galaxy S2

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Pupi, that's a cardinal shrimp - Caridina dennerli. I hope your tank is alkaline because these little guys prefer pH around 8. See this page for info:

    http://atyidae.wordpress.com/cardinal_shrimp/

    Did you spend around $10 for these?
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    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    Pupi, that's a cardinal shrimp - Caridina dennerli. I hope your tank is alkaline because these little guys prefer pH around 8. See this page for info:

    http://atyidae.wordpress.com/cardinal_shrimp/

    Did you spend around $10 for these?
    Hi Stormhawk. Thanks for identifying. I'm in trouble then. My PH for that tank is usually about 6.7. And all my other tanks are on the slight acidic side.

    Oh no... I guess I have just brought them home to die? Yeah, C328 aunty quoted me at $5.50 each. But in the end sold them to me at $10 each. Omg... I cannot believe what I just did... Is it possible that they MIGHT just survive?

    Tapatalking with my Galaxy S2

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by PupiPupi View Post
    Hi Stormhawk. Thanks for identifying. I'm in trouble then. My PH for that tank is usually about 6.7. And all my other tanks are on the slight acidic side.

    Oh no... I guess I have just brought them home to die? Yeah, C328 aunty quoted me at $5.50 each. But in the end sold them to me at $10 each. Omg... I cannot believe what I just did... Is it possible that they MIGHT just survive?

    Tapatalking with my Galaxy S2
    Hi sis,

    unfortunately, these shrimps are really delicate, one of the most delicate freshwater shrimps, and there is no way they way survive in a tank with pH 6.7 In fact, they have very specific requirements, requiring high pH but at the same time low gH. The shrimps will not die immediately, but they will not survive very long in a tank with such a low pH, probably a few weeks at most.

    The best thing you can do now is to probably raise the pH of the tank to at least 7.5 (however, you must also take into consideration the other inhabitants in your tank) or if you have any established empty tank, you can add coral chips and raise the pH to at least 8, and then drip acclimatise the shrimps to the new tank.

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Hmmm.. Your best bet to get them to survive is to remove them from the tank and leave them in a small critter carrier with a higher pH. They may survive for not, but will die off in the long run sicne conditions arent right.
    Cheers,
    Bernard
    Kept (no more ) Betta persephone, B. miniopinna, B. sp. palangkaraya, B. uberis, B. channoides, B. burdigala
    Pseudepiplatys annulatus, Nannostomus eques

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Sulawesi shrimps are not delicate if you get the water conditions right. I'd advise you to read the various Sulawesi threads in the shrimp section before you take a plunge.

    Since aunty quoted you at $5.50 per shrimp, how did it come to be $10 each? Did they make a mistake in the calculation? Often, the prices of the fishes in the betta rack are quoted by the uncle, since it seems he is in charge of that rack.

    You didn't bring them home to die, and the situation can be rectified if you can set up a new tank or a critter keeper for them within the following week or so. It was an honest mistake on your part and not a big problem to begin with. So don't lose hope.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    Sulawesi shrimps are not delicate if you get the water conditions right. I'd advise you to read the various Sulawesi threads in the shrimp section before you take a plunge.

    Since aunty quoted you at $5.50 per shrimp, how did it come to be $10 each? Did they make a mistake in the calculation? Often, the prices of the fishes in the betta rack are quoted by the uncle, since it seems he is in charge of that rack.

    You didn't bring them home to die, and the situation can be rectified if you can set up a new tank or a critter keeper for them within the following week or so. It was an honest mistake on your part and not a big problem to begin with. So don't lose hope.
    Hi Stormhawk,

    I have set up a smaller tank with no live stock accept for 2 nertie horned snails. The water taken from my 3 ft tank which the shrimps are in now. I have been attempting to catch them since yesterday but it's quite tough since the tank is pretty heavily planted with tons of hiding places. I think the best plan now is to catch them, put them in the new smaller tank and slowly increase the PH until it's about an 8? If I have success in keeping them alive and happy for the next few weeks, them maybe I can consider getting getting small fishes (maybe 4 or 6) which suits the water parameters. Any suggestions on suitable fishes with high PH?

    By the way, the I asked both uncle and aunty for the price. They both quoted $5.50 each, but gave me a discount of $1 in total since I did buy a couple of other things and brought a group of friends there who made purchases as well.

    Thank you all for your advise. I would have unwittingly killed those 2 pretty little things should you not have pointed out all these.
    Last edited by PupiPupi; 13th Feb 2012 at 12:03.

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Suitable fishes would be Oryzias species, aka Rice Fishes, or Telmatherina species, though they are probably predators on these shrimp in their natural habitat. You can keep the tank alkaline easily with some coral chips, just be sure to monitor the GH and KH over time. The Nerites are great tank mates since they prefer more alkaline water.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    Suitable fishes would be Oryzias species, aka Rice Fishes, or Telmatherina species, though they are probably predators on these shrimp in their natural habitat. You can keep the tank alkaline easily with some coral chips, just be sure to monitor the GH and KH over time. The Nerites are great tank mates since they prefer more alkaline water.

    Cool! Ok. I will buy the coral chips tonight and start shifting the PH. Hope this rescue mission works. Thanks again Stormhawk!

  12. #72

    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by PupiPupi View Post
    @Pupipupi - How are the new additions to the tank doing?
    Hey MT, glad to have you back here. I haven't been reading up here much. So busy with work! My 3 ft has been doing ok except..... I recently had a baddddd infestation of those algae that grows on plants. What are those? They are furry and blackish. Sigh.... I've asked an LFS owner in Bedok for advice. He said that I need to change one third of my tank water out every 10 days. The problem will go away slowly. Anyone had any experience with this? I'm so bothered by it. Makes my tank look so ugly.

    Another bad news is that one of my German blue rams konked out on me yesterday. I dunno why. Other than that, every thing else is good. Shrimps are moulting daily, leaving the base of the tank littered with their transparent sheddings. My Ivantsoffis are doing well too. The pair swim every where together. And I see the male chasing the female sometimes. Pretty cool.

    Setting up a new 2 ft just for Psuedos. Cheap ones first. I will get the Furcatas from C328 and transfer some of my shrimps over from the 3ft. I'm thinking a Iwagumi scape? Is it very challenging to do that?
    @PupiPupi - I am still traveling and outside of Sing as we speak. Have not had much time to check the board. But looks like you've been making great strides on expanding the bio-diversity in your tank and adding a few more tanks.

    Sorry to hear about the German Blue Ram. It was a nice looking fish. Good to hear that the shrimps and the P. Ivantsoffi are doing well.

    How is your new Pseudo tank and Sulawesi tank (by default ) coming along?

    Staghorn algae? How often do you put liquid fertilize in your tank? You've also got a CO2 tank right?

  13. #73

    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by PupiPupi View Post
    Cool! Ok. I will buy the coral chips tonight and start shifting the PH. Hope this rescue mission works. Thanks again Stormhawk!
    Sister, looks like you are going to beat me and start a Sulaweis tank before I get there..haha. You are already one foot in the water (no pun intended).

    Getting back to your question earlier about Iwagumi tank. It is not hard to set one up and it is all about individual/personal style and taste. I like Iwagumi for the simplicity and zen feel to it. But at the same time, I guess zen and simplicity do transcend beyond the Iwagumi school of aquascaping.

    Let me know how your cardinal shrimps are doing. It will be great to learn from your experience.

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Pupi, use a very small quantity at first and go slow with the change. It is better to do this slowly, lest you end up with a high pH tank but with GH and KH not to the liking of the C. dennerli.
    Fish.. Simply Irresistable
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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    Pupi, use a very small quantity at first and go slow with the change. It is better to do this slowly, lest you end up with a high pH tank but with GH and KH not to the liking of the C. dennerli.
    Hi Stormhawk, I moved them over to the new tank last night after introducing the new water to them via drip method. The strange thing was that I did a pH test on both my 3 ft tank and the new empty tank which was cycling with the snails and the pH turned out to be different even though the small tank's water came from the 3 ft tank. Maybe the lack of live stock increased the tank's pH. Anyways, my 3 ft pH read 6.8 and the small tank read 7.5 (before addition of coral chips). I proceeded to catch the cardinal shrimps. Took me close to 2 hours! Meanwhile, I had added the coral chips and medium sized coral stones to the small tank (found all these in a plastic bag in my storeroom which was from the bro I bought my 3 ft tank from. Lucky!). After 2 hours, pH of both tanks remain the same.

    I proceeded to the drip method on the shrimps in a small container, introducing the small tank's high pH water to the shrimps. This is where I got a little confused. I have 2 test kits, both from API. One is just to test pH level (they include a dropper with the pH test solution and a glass cylinder type bottle to fill with tank water) the other is a test strip that tests your GH, KH,pH, Nitrite and Nitrate levels. I used both test kits to test the pH but the reading turned out a little different. Using the dropper test kit, the pH reads 7.5. Using the strip, pH reads 7. Which do I trust? Or is there a more accurate test kit out there that any bros can recommend? Also, according to the strip test, the GH levels seem a little high for the shrimps. On the website introduced by bro Stormhawk, it says these shrimps need a 7.0 but the strip reads about a 8 or 9? Should I be concerned? If so, what should I do to lower it?

    Last question, by adding the coral stones and ships (stones added directly into the tank for the shrimps to run around on it and chips added to the filter). how long before I should see an increase in pH levels? I checked it again this morning (about 9 hours since the corals were added) and there is no change to the pH levels.

    Any advice?

    Thanks!

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by charcaradon megaldon View Post
    Sister, looks like you are going to beat me and start a Sulaweis tank before I get there..haha. You are already one foot in the water (no pun intended).

    Getting back to your question earlier about Iwagumi tank. It is not hard to set one up and it is all about individual/personal style and taste. I like Iwagumi for the simplicity and zen feel to it. But at the same time, I guess zen and simplicity do transcend beyond the Iwagumi school of aquascaping.

    Let me know how your cardinal shrimps are doing. It will be great to learn from your experience.
    No envy here MT. I'm scared outta my wits, hoping that I'm not killing those shrimps. There's been change of a few plans whilst you've been away on my end. I had a 1 ft tank which was holding my red-clawed crabs. My mum donated(abandoned) her crabs to me, causing me to have to shift them to the new 2 feet which I originally bought for the Pseudos. So after clearing out the 1 ft tank, I did a simple set up and kept it cycling for i-dunno-what because I was gonna put the pseudo tank on hold. It is now holding my Sulawesi shrimps. Hoping they will not only survive, but do well in a higher PH tank. Drop by again when you've back. I've been planting my 3 ft. It's growing well although there's that algae problem. I dun fert my tank previously except for the Root Monster from Ocean Free which I inserted about a month ago? But I've been doing with Excel since it is said to be able to melt off the staghorn algae.

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    The pH levels will be noticeable after a week or so, depending on how fast the coral pieces start to break down. I usually place these in a place with high water flow so it aids in their breaking down process. Drip type tests are more accurate than test strips, unless you have those from Merck or other brands that specifically measure only pH. The multi-test strips can be inaccurate due to our humid conditions and how fast the reagents present on the strips lose their sensitivity.

    You can get a pH pen, or a pH meter that will measure the pH on a permanent basis. Something like this:

    http://vpmt.com/handheld%20ph%20meter.jpg

    The probe goes into the tank and remains there while the display shows you the reading. The meter will need calibration every now and then, to maintain it's accuracy. With pH pens, you need to test the water sample from the tank after it has been kept in a container for a few hours to get an accurate reading. To the lower the GH you can do a slight water change, and use distilled water if available. I would advise you to get other test kits like the one from Sera or API to get a second reading, before you do this.

    Is the tank for the Sulawesi filled with coral sand and coral chips? If yes, you might want to reduce it a little.
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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    The pH levels will be noticeable after a week or so, depending on how fast the coral pieces start to break down. I usually place these in a place with high water flow so it aids in their breaking down process. Drip type tests are more accurate than test strips, unless you have those from Merck or other brands that specifically measure only pH. The multi-test strips can be inaccurate due to our humid conditions and how fast the reagents present on the strips lose their sensitivity.

    You can get a pH pen, or a pH meter that will measure the pH on a permanent basis. Something like this:

    http://vpmt.com/handheld%20ph%20meter.jpg



    The probe goes into the tank and remains there while the display shows you the reading. The meter will need calibration every now and then, to maintain it's accuracy. With pH pens, you need to test the water sample from the tank after it has been kept in a container for a few hours to get an accurate reading. To the lower the GH you can do a slight water change, and use distilled water if available. I would advise you to get other test kits like the one from Sera or API to get a second reading, before you do this.

    Is the tank for the Sulawesi filled with coral sand and coral chips? If yes, you might want to reduce it a little.
    Thanks Stormhawk. You have been most helpful. For pH, I do use the drip test kit from API. However, I think for the Sulawesi tank, I will need to buy one that can measure higher pH since the drip test kit I have is more to test acidity, only up to 7.5.

    Are those probe meters very expensive? Maybe I should post a WTB in the market place. How do we calibrate the pen?

    Also, I have placed a few Coral pieces in the Sulawesi tank and a bit of coral chips in the filter. So far, I only manage to sight one shrimp. The other should be hiding amongst the rocks. Will monitor the pH of the water daily for now and see if I need to do any adjustments.

    The tank looks absolutely empty and lack of life. So tempted to get fishes already!!! But I know I need to wait it out.

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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    For a Sulawesi tank, you might have to consider test kits meant for high pH ranges, for example those meant for marine tanks. I was at a marine LFS during Valentine's Day and had a short talk with the shop owner, who is very helpful. He recommended using a marine test kit, specifically Seachem's Multi-Test for Marine pH and alkalinity, for a hard water tank, especially since the pH values recommended for these shrimps is above 7.5.

    Some pH meters that come with submersible probes will cost a fair bit though they are good for constant monitoring. Handheld test pens are calibrated with the use of a reference fluid, which is basically sold as calibration liquid for specific test pens. These pens are good but have a lifespan after which they must be replaced.

    Liquid pH test kits that use an indicator fluid, are fairly accurate. I think most contain phenolphthalein, which is what we used in secondary school for chemistry when it came to measuring the pH of a liquid sample.

    If you lose the shrimps for one reason or another, take this as a learning experience. At least right now while you're monitoring and concurrently cycling the tank, if it hasn't been done, you can tweak it so that eventually, it will be ready for the shrimps. I've been trying to find a marine salt mix, which would have the composition of materials that would be close, if not exactly like that of Lake Matano.
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    Re: Pseudomugil sp. "Red Neon"

    Quote Originally Posted by stormhawk View Post
    For a Sulawesi tank, you might have to consider test kits meant for high pH ranges, for example those meant for marine tanks. I was at a marine LFS during Valentine's Day and had a short talk with the shop owner, who is very helpful. He recommended using a marine test kit, specifically Seachem's Multi-Test for Marine pH and alkalinity, for a hard water tank, especially since the pH values recommended for these shrimps is above 7.5.

    Some pH meters that come with submersible probes will cost a fair bit though they are good for constant monitoring. Handheld test pens are calibrated with the use of a reference fluid, which is basically sold as calibration liquid for specific test pens. These pens are good but have a lifespan after which they must be replaced.

    Liquid pH test kits that use an indicator fluid, are fairly accurate. I think most contain phenolphthalein, which is what we used in secondary school for chemistry when it came to measuring the pH of a liquid sample.

    If you lose the shrimps for one reason or another, take this as a learning experience. At least right now while you're monitoring and concurrently cycling the tank, if it hasn't been done, you can tweak it so that eventually, it will be ready for the shrimps. I've been trying to find a marine salt mix, which would have the composition of materials that would be close, if not exactly like that of Lake Matano.
    Hi Stormhawk. Yes I already bought the dropper test kit for higher pH levels. I got the API one which came with 2 colour charts. One for freshwater and one for marine.

    I was at Seaview yesterday so I just asked how much a pH pen costs. They recommended the Pet Fran brand? After discount it's about $60. And yes I saw the calibration solution too.

    I have been adjusting the coral chips amount to get the right pH. It's quite frustrating really. One minute it's an 8.4, the next day it's 7.4. I'll just take it one day at a time and hope for the best.

    Are you interested in rearing them too? I read a thread here about these critters. Seems like they were a hit when they first came in 2008.

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