chiller problem - expert advise is needed urgently

**granzord** · 13th Jan 2012, 17:55

got chiller hailei 300A... current today experiance totally out temp from my chiller temp (30deg) and my external temp reader (18 deg).... my whole tank was super misty....
my settings was 26deg... it was like hazy wire liao...

current my hailei was on external probe modification quite some time ago.was workin well.

currently i off the chiller liao.

any advise from experts?

**reiner09** · 13th Jan 2012, 17:57

most probably your probe might have cronked out..

**granzord** · 13th Jan 2012, 18:16

means external probe spoilt?

**eviltrain** · 13th Jan 2012, 18:24

Is your external probe outside your water?

Send from my GT-P1000 (Overcome 7 Series v4.0.0)

**granzord** · 13th Jan 2012, 18:59

no bro , still in water .

**reiner09** · 13th Jan 2012, 19:03

does the water keep cooling or stops at 18deg c? if it is continuously cooling, check for the wiring see if it is alright,if not then your external probe is spoilt..
If it stops at 18deg c then i think you might need to calibrate if possible?

or is your external thermometer faulty? and the mist just happen to occur because today is a hot day? (aha not really possible but just suggesting the probable)

**granzord** · 13th Jan 2012, 19:36

ems to me it keep cooling. when i was at home today in the morning ... it was areadly 23deg... later after 5plus i come back ....18deg....while my main tank is goin down. my canisteer reading is goin up.,....think it happen today as yesterday still ok.

**granzord** · 14th Jan 2012, 15:16

ok i put back to original temp prode inside tank. but i got message in my chiller display P1.

what is P1 means.

chiller also not working.

**eviltrain** · 14th Jan 2012, 15:19

That means there is some connection problem liao.

Send from my GT-P1000 (Overcome 7 Series v4.0.0)

**granzord** · 14th Jan 2012, 15:26

thanks bro . connection loose.
think my chiller looks ok liao... think my external prode is the culprint.

actually where do you buy one. your one is the rubber type right. got some white number on it as my dont have white wordings on it like my friends one....so maybe see can buy metal one....becoas he told me is the wordings for the connection to black and red cables correctly

**gryphon** · 14th Jan 2012, 15:26

Originally Posted by granzord

ok i put back to original temp prode inside tank. but i got message in my chiller display P1.

what is P1 means.

chiller also not working.

Yes P1 is connection problem, maybe one of the wires not connected properly or both wires short circuit together

**Antonchann** · 30th Jan 2012, 15:37

I have a system that works well for me. I'm currently using a teco tr 20 for my two feet tank. Had the problem of frequent kick in-out timings as my flowrate wasn't too good. However I notices that it takes about 6-7 mins for my chiller to cool the water down from 25 to 24. Hence, with this statistic, instead of upgrading my canister with one that had a higher flowrate, I invested in a digital timer to run my chiller. I set the timer to on for 10 mins every hour so that equates to 2.4hs or run time a day ($9.42 per month using pub website to caclulate) and my tank temperature is very stable at 24-25 degrees. Hope this info helps!

**avex30** · 30th Jan 2012, 17:06

Originally Posted by Antonchann

I have a system that works well for me. I'm currently using a teco tr 20 for my two feet tank. Had the problem of frequent kick in-out timings as my flowrate wasn't too good. However I notices that it takes about 6-7 mins for my chiller to cool the water down from 25 to 24. Hence, with this statistic, instead of upgrading my canister with one that had a higher flowrate, I invested in a digital timer to run my chiller. I set the timer to on for 10 mins every hour so that equates to 2.4hs or run time a day ($9.42 per month using pub website to caclulate) and my tank temperature is very stable at 24-25 degrees. Hope this info helps!

The constant of cutting on and off of power long term you going to cause some short circuit on the control board. Advise you not to do that with electronic stuff but is your call the build for chiller is different from our normal household appliances.

**Antonchann** · 30th Jan 2012, 17:13

Originally Posted by avex30

The constant of cutting on and off of power long term you going to cause some short circuit on the control board. Advise you not to do that with electronic stuff but is your call the build for chiller is different from our normal household appliances.

Hmm.. Are you experienced with electrical stuff? Previously, it would kick in for about a minute then after 3 mins kick in again constantly.. So I think this method will prolong the chiller life as constant kick ins are worst?

**gryphon** · 9th Feb 2012, 10:58

Originally Posted by Antonchann

Hmm.. Are you experienced with electrical stuff? Previously, it would kick in for about a minute then after 3 mins kick in again constantly.. So I think this method will prolong the chiller life as constant kick ins are worst?

Check your manual and settings. From what I know China brands like Hailea kicks in when temperature drops below 1 deg of the temperature you set. This 1 deg is fixed.
However Artica is able to set this temperature difference to less than 1 deg. If it is set to too small a value, you chiller will kick in and out very often. Maybe your Teco is set like this.