Need advise of increasing CRS shrimplets survival

**Noobz** · 22nd Jan 2012, 10:37

Any bro can advise any way to increase the survival rate of CRS shrimplets. My blue pearl and CRS just gave birth not long but notice that blue pearl shrimplets still swimming in tank while I hardly get to see less CRS shrimplets now. I feeding them Mosura Bioplus but it so sad to see CRS shrimplets disappearing. Anyone can cadvise how to increase their survival rate?

**Ebi** · 22nd Jan 2012, 11:32

I believe you know the basics of using a sponge for the filter inlet, bio-load and water circulation.

Do not over feed. Do not disturb the tank with shrimplets. Newborns will remain in the same location for a few days after hatching, no point to feed too early after hatching, there is plenty of food in the tank for the shrimplets in the form of micro-organism and algae.
Try keeping them in a separate tank without mature shrimps, hydras, planaria. They are very "fragile", molt very frequently and doesn't know how to find a "safe hiding place" to molt, so are prone to predation and injury easily.
Keep water parameter as pristine and as stable as possible, lower temperature helps as well.

**Noobz** · 23rd Jan 2012, 17:21

Originally Posted by Ebi

I believe you know the basics of using a sponge for the filter inlet, bio-load and water circulation.

Do not over feed. Do not disturb the tank with shrimplets. Newborns will remain in the same location for a few days after hatching, no point to feed too early after hatching, there is plenty of food in the tank for the shrimplets in the form of micro-organism and algae.
Try keeping them in a separate tank without mature shrimps, hydras, planaria. They are very "fragile", molt very frequently and doesn't know how to find a "safe hiding place" to molt, so are prone to predation and injury easily.
Keep water parameter as pristine and as stable as possible, lower temperature helps as well.

Aware and did all of the basic requirement but it seems that the survival of CRS shrimplets is still low.

**eviltrain** · 23rd Jan 2012, 18:36

How about telling us your water parameter?

Send from my GT-P1000 (Overcome 7 Series v4.0.0)

**silane** · 23rd Jan 2012, 21:27

Good filtration is also important for CRS shrimplets survival rate.

**Navanod** · 23rd Jan 2012, 22:32

Insufficient info, we're unable to assess the problem easily.
Please provide full tank shot, and water parameters readings.

What are the temperature, GH, pH and ammonia, nitrate readings?
TDS readings would be nice too

**Noobz** · 23rd Jan 2012, 23:30

My Parameter are as follows.

Ph: 6.1 - 6.5
GH: 5
KH: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 0
Temperature: 24 - 25 degree celsius

Tank is 1 and 1/2 feet tank with ehiem 2213 canister, chiller and sponge filter and running CO2 as I'm planting HC.

All other shrimplets from my pearl blue are still swimming around but I hardly can see CRS shrimplets these few days.

**Navanod** · 24th Jan 2012, 00:23

Looks very good bro...are you dosing fertilizers?
If you are, TDS may be an issue

**cheetf** · 24th Jan 2012, 08:30

Planted tank or shrimp tank. If you try to combine both, one will do well while the other suffers. In this case seems like it's the shrimp that are suffering.

**Noobz** · 24th Jan 2012, 09:57

Originally Posted by Navanod

Looks very good bro...are you dosing fertilizers?
If you are, TDS may be an issue

I'm using LUSH from boneowild which GC is using as they are harmless to shrimps. I'm only using 1 pump per week. What is the idea TDS for CRS? Is TDS a important key factor?

**Navanod** · 24th Jan 2012, 13:03

Originally Posted by Noobz

I'm using LUSH from boneowild which GC is using as they are harmless to shrimps. I'm only using 1 pump per week. What is the idea TDS for CRS? Is TDS a important key factor?

TDS is total dissolved solids, measured by a conductivity meter.
I cannot be 100% sure what is ideal. At the moment, there're various reports of an "ideal" range for this shrimp or that shrimp but I guess the take home message is, any large swings in TDS is going to cause problems for the shrimp's osmotic regulation, ie. water and salt entering and leaving the body through the gills.
The generally accepted TDS reading ranges from 80 all the way to 250 depending on who you talk to. Anything higher or lower is probably going to be quite funky. More importantly, TDS should remain stable at whatever the shrimps had gotten used to.

Fertilizers, being mainly made of conductive ions like potassium, calcium, nitrates and phosphates will cause TDS to change quickly if you dose too much.
I find it strange that your nitrate levels are zero although you're running a planted tank. How much is "one pump"? The instructions for LUSH says 1ml to 20L of water daily

**Noobz** · 24th Jan 2012, 15:22

Originally Posted by Navanod

TDS is total dissolved solids, measured by a conductivity meter.
I cannot be 100% sure what is ideal. At the moment, there're various reports of an "ideal" range for this shrimp or that shrimp but I guess the take home message is, any large swings in TDS is going to cause problems for the shrimp's osmotic regulation, ie. water and salt entering and leaving the body through the gills.
The generally accepted TDS reading ranges from 80 all the way to 250 depending on who you talk to. Anything higher or lower is probably going to be quite funky. More importantly, TDS should remain stable at whatever the shrimps had gotten used to.

Fertilizers, being mainly made of conductive ions like potassium, calcium, nitrates and phosphates will cause TDS to change quickly if you dose too much.
I find it strange that your nitrate levels are zero although you're running a planted tank. How much is "one pump"? The instructions for LUSH says 1ml to 20L of water daily

Hi bro if I'm not wrong 1 pump is about 0.5 ml as I usually pump to a syringe before mixing with water before adding to tank.

**avex30** · 24th Jan 2012, 15:23

I saw those 2 pieces of ammonia and ph reading sticking on the glass I think you can throw away they are not accurate. Invest in a proper test kits and read take reading

**Navanod** · 24th Jan 2012, 15:28

Originally Posted by avex30

I saw those 2 pieces of ammonia and ph reading sticking on the glass I think you can throw away they are not accurate. Invest in a proper test kits and read take reading

I agree. Those things are an utter waste of money.
Your ammonia or pH may be way off compared to those stick on.

**Navanod** · 24th Jan 2012, 15:29

Originally Posted by Noobz

Hi bro if I'm not wrong 1 pump is about 0.5 ml as I usually pump to a syringe before mixing with water before adding to tank.

Well, thats very little fert...great for the shrimps, so that means its unlikely to be killing the CRS...not so great for the plants.

**Noobz** · 24th Jan 2012, 18:05

Originally Posted by avex30

I saw those 2 pieces of ammonia and ph reading sticking on the glass I think you can throw away they are not accurate. Invest in a proper test kits and read take reading

Yeah will be throwing away. Yup I did invest in test kit and PH meter. The water parameter I took is from test kit.