Not trying to take shortcuts, but trying to ensure the highest chance of survivability of the culture...been rather "lucky" thus far with my minimal maintanence so don't want to take any further chances...
For the links posted above, I have read through them before I got my own culture, just that most if not all mentioned about splitting the culture when population explodes, don't remember seeing much about seeding new cultures...
So, I have stopped harvesting for 2 days to increase their numbers a little. I will try seeding with as much worms I can get by shaking/rinsing the old mats. Don't wanna risk my stable old mats from crashing. Thanks for all the insights guys!
BTW, with regards to cat food, does it pose any risk to the fish thats gona eat the worms? How about smell? I do not get any with crushed flakes, but do get some with micropellets.
err...As I read and understand it, splitting an exploding population is to literally divide it into established halves(or more) to prevent overcrowding. Seeding seems more tricky(at least for me) since it involves placing small amounts of worms into a totally new environment.
Anyways, I'm gona try it out tonight!
fongalv, I can send you a PDF copy for the cultivation of Grindal worms on synthetic pads if you are still encountering any problems or in doubt. Perhaps, it can help you get an idea of how to go about doing this, with some photos as illustrations in it. Fairly simple to digest, because it was written as a laboratory report and guidelines.![]()
Last edited by Shi Xuan; 31st Jan 2012 at 01:48.
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
Cat food, basically any food rich in protein, especially animal protein, will cause a stink. Same when you poop after eating meat.
I get a slight smell when I feed the worms with Hikari Carnivore Pellets, not so much with oatmeal.
Splitting culture is the same as seeding new cultures. You can cut this step short by transferring one of the pads with some worms on it, from the old to the new culture. Just place it right on top and feed the worms as per normal. They will colonise the rest of the pads over time. Don't shake or rinse the pad, transferring is better so you don't stress out the worms. This is what I did when I was doing a subculture awhile ago and it works. As long as the pads in the new box are of the same material and texture, the worms will take to it easily. My original culture came on a Scotch Brite scrubber pad piece, then I bought some cheap greenish pads from NTUC and the worms spread out into the new material within the same night.
Shi Xuan, I couldn't find a suitable filter padding, though one was close in texture to the scrubber pad. There was an old article on TFH magazine, somewhere in my room, that gave an early insight on how to culture these worms on synthetic media. In that article, the author used a type of open cell foam, probably PORET foam, or the type used for sponge filters, to culture his worms. It worked too well but his was an early design so mites were occasionally present.
I need to hunt for more materials as I plan for a larger box.
Fish.. Simply Irresistable
Back to Killies... slowly.
High protein food like cat biscuits is beneficial for increased productivity although it gives off a really nasty smell whenever I open the lid, but it dissipates very fast and besides, it's a closed lid, so it doesn't really matter.
A while ago, Tyrone Genade, who kept killies, fed his grindal worms a form of baby cereal, Pronutro and the result was excellent. Alas, this is a South African baby cereal and unavailable locally although I wished it'd been.
As for oatmeal, my luck was only once and that's all. Fish food was even worst and the result was utterly pathetic. Somehow, the worms are picky and refuse carnivore pellets no matter how I tried.
Transferring a small piece of the old pad to a new one is an alternative but I try not to disturb the old culture as much as possible. I harvest some worms from the old culture for the new ones instead, especially since the population will not grow if the worms are not harvested frequently.
I have not found any suitable medium that is as good as scrubber pad for culturing grindal worms. I think Scotch brite or the cheap greenish pads sold at NTUC are the best. If you are intending to use a larger container, perhaps, you can get more stacks of pads, which is similar to having a few of the small cultures going at a time.
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
Thanks for the advice guys!
I tried seeding the new container last night, but only managed to get about 30-40 worms out. What I did was to submerge both of my thin old scrub pads in a container of clean tank water so that I cleaned out all the gunk accumulated over the past few months and boy it was really dirty! In process of cleaning and dunking it in water, I suppose most of the worms hid themselves further into the pad and hence only managed to harvest that 30-40 worms for the new culture.
This morning, I found the worms in the old culture congregating as usual on the plastic cup inside the container and instead of harvesting them for feeding, I washed them out and put more of them into the new culture. I intend to do this for another 2-3 days to increase the mass of worms in the new culture without stressing the old culture too much.
fongalav, it's not a good idea to add anymore worms to the new culture. Add a little bit more, but not too much. It helps to encourage them to colonize the pad faster but it won't work if you add too many worms, besides, the worms in your new culture will reproduce as well.
Leave them be and feed sparingly. The worms in the new culture will take a couple of days to finish the food initially but as they get more established, it will become faster and you need to feed them more often. As time goes by, spread the food around the perimeter of the worm colony, so that they can colonize the entire pad properly.![]()
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
Hi, may I know if these grindalworms are suitable to feed bettas with?
Yes, they are suitable for betta but feed moderately, because these worms are fatty and when overfed, the betta might suffer from constipation and therefore, detrimental to their well-being. I think they are ideal for juvenile betta, which is too small for tubifex worms and bloodworms.![]()
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
Its been 3 days since I seeded the culture into the new pads...still looking pretty empty and I hesitate to feed more(powdered cereal flakes).
Been adviced above that I will need to be patient, but is there anything I can do to ensure the survivability of the new culture since I was not supposed to rush and add more worms? Do note that since my original culture was small, I've seeded at most 50 worms of various sizes into the new 4 inch thick scrub pads.
The worms are relatively hardy, IMO and they are definitely in your pad but it's unlikely they will appear if no food is offered. Another possibility could be the lack of moisture that drove the worms deeper into the pad seeking refuge in areas that are moister.
Give it some time, if there's still not much activity after a week or so, add a bit more worms from your existing culture and feed lightly.![]()
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
You can add more worms from the existing cultures but it will still take time for the population to grow in size.
Fish.. Simply Irresistable
Back to Killies... slowly.
Are grindalworms bigger in size compared to microworms?
Tempted to get a culture after seeing a thread in the marketplace for them![]()
As true worms, yes, Grindals are definitely larger than Microworms, which are basically nematodes.
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
Hi guys,
I recently got a starter culture of these worms from a forum member here.
As the days went by (about 4 days now) the number of worms I can see gathering around the food has gotten lesser and lesser. Am I doing something wrong? They came in a box, with ventilation holes and scrubber pads and dog food pellets.
I don't know if they are inside the pads or something. How do I check, or get them to "come out"?
Did you keep the humidity high in the box? Ventilation holes are no use if they do not have a protective screen over it to keep out mites, flies and other insect pests.
They ought to be in the pads. Just hold a pad and look with a torchlight. If they are not present in the pads but you notice mites and such, then the culture is compromised.
Fish.. Simply Irresistable
Back to Killies... slowly.
Keeping the culture in a dark place with sufficient humidity within the container, along with ample food on the pad, should lure the worms out of hiding.
Are the pellets promptly consumed? Overfeeding especially with high protein foods like dog and cat kibbles, make the pad smells of rotten eggs, that is, Hydrogen sulfide, which is highly lethal and can potentially kill the worms.
Currently keeping large predatory fish 🐟
Hmm well I just checked them. There are mites in a small cluster at a corner, but there are worms too. And shining a torchlight at the pad doesn't reveal any wriggling movement.
The pellets aren't promptly consumed, in fact the remnants of the original 3 pellets are still there. I will remove them tomorrow in case they are already rotting (there is no smell btw).
I will grab a picture for you guys in the morning.
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