I recently converted to a hang-on filter for my planted tank and realised that certain parts of the tank does not get water circulation (my hang-on filter is on the other end of the tank). Is there a way that I can rectify this? I don't really intend to buy any equipment other equipment, but if need be I wouldn't mind doing some DIY.
Advice?
How big is your tank? Ad the outflow of your HOF? Its good to get a canister or OHF with higher outflow and direct the water flow at the other end of the tank, such that the dirt will be pushed to the filter inlet. HOFs are usually suitable for Nano tanks, or low bio-load aquariums where very little current and movement in the water will do. Cheers!
I have a planted 2 ft tank, and fishes that are meant for "decorations" probably about 20-30 of them mostly made up of tetras, platys, if not corys and plecos. I suppose you can consider that as high bio-load? I included in a picture to provide an illustration.
Attachment 28268
That's a fair bit of fish for a HOF to handle. You can opt to use an air pump with a decent size airstone at the other end of the tank away from your HOF to ensure that the water is circulated on the other end, or get a small powerhead with a mini rainbar and place it close to the bottom of the tank on the same side below the HOF. Set the rainbar to "sweep" the bottom zone so you won't have any dead spots in the tank.
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Well, I was hoping to get a L-shaped connector and stick into the input valve on the HOF, and then run the extension of the input valve along the bottom of the tank right to the middle. Do you think it would work? Any idea where I can get the L-shaped connector?
That can work too. For the L-shaped connector, I think C328 might have it, but you need to do some measurement of the diameter of the attachment point. They have various sizes and I think I've seen at least one rainbar unit box set from UP that can be modified for your use. The HOF must be powerful enough to draw water through the extension, or it will be useless.
http://www.up-aqua.com/00-dm-page/00...oducts-big.jpg
Top left of the pic shows the 2 sizes for the rainbar unit.
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That can work too. For the L-shaped connector, I think C328 might have it, but you need to do some measurement of the diameter of the attachment point. They have various sizes and I think I've seen at least one rainbar unit box set from UP that can be modified for your use. The HOF must be powerful enough to draw water through the extension, or it will be useless.
http://www.up-aqua.com/00-dm-page/00...oducts-big.jpg
Top left of the pic shows the 2 sizes for the rainbar unit.
http://www.up-aqua.com/00-dm-page/00...essory-big.jpg
Accessories listed here, also from UP, which I think is where C328 gets their connectors from.
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And then I realised that it might not be that feasible after all. Even if I manage to get an L-shaped connector, the 450/L HOF might not have enough power to draw water in from that distance up and through the filter channel. Upgrading the HOF might not be feasible as well as the output waterfall might just be too huge. Sigh. I realised I really have got to think deeper in these things, otherwise it's learning the hard way! I went over to Blk 266 at Serangoon Central and they sell the L-shape connector also. Thought you might want to know
Anyway, I decided to convert back to the internal filter - even though it looks ugly in the tank, I am using a rain bar borrowed from the intake valve of the HOF and fixed into the output valve of the internal filter. Water turbulence seems controlled and there seems to be decent enough water circulation. Let's just hope the plants benefits from this move and the filter is able to handle the amount of waste generated from the fauna in the tank.
Will want to KIV this project for future usage though. Seems like a decent enough project for a true planted tank.
You can adopt this hillstream loach tank design:
http://www.loaches.com/articles/a-river-runs-through-it
With some modification it can be pretty nifty for a planted tank.
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Very interesting design of the river flow system. I like how he had intending to use the powerhead as the inflow to draw water through the sponges, the pipings and then out again. It really is a brilliant and yet doable set-up, albeit the time constraints all Singaporeans have
I would personally think that I would have to modify the outflow such that it doesn't give too much of an initial "push" of current, yet the intake is strong enough to bring water through the sponges. I would personally think this might work better in planted tanks especially with plants thriving in stagnant water. Reason being: water displacement cause by the intake of fluids from the intake valve - sponge in this case, would create a "natural" water current since water near the intake is displaced and the surrounding water molecules seeks to move into "space". Nonetheless, it is still a good set-up and worth the try (read: experiment) in a planted tank.
I am keen to set up a new tank, but just not too sure what to have it for. It would either be for crustaceans (CRS, crabs or sulawesi snails) or amphibians. Aquatics is poison to my soul!
You don't need a very big tank for this to work. Just a small low-type long tank will be perfect. You can place some rocks or small boulders in the path of the flow from the powerheads to create calm spots which should be conducive for tough plants like Java Fern or Vallisneria even.
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