UV Sterilizers

[RonWill]

Dear all,

I'm running a 4 tier setup and am considering a in-line or in-sump UV unit.

Tanks' dimension are 48"L x 18"W x 10"H, and at 7"H of water, volume per tank is roughly 100 Litres and uses a standing overflow pipe.

Sump is DIY and return is via Eheim 1048, but for 2 tanks now as HmaxM is only 1.5m (will change later).

I'm new to UV units and would appreciate it very much to know;
Acceptable minimum UV bulb wattage.
Effective bulb life: duration and cost of replacements.
Flow-through rate within UV.
Approximate cost, reliability and availability.
Recommended units for my setup (I don't mind a used, but working unit).

My intention of the UV is to minimize or eradicate protozoa, fungal and bacterial infection since the water column for 3 tanks will be cycled as one. TIA for any suggestions.

Regards,
Ronnie Lee

[RonWill]

Dear all,

Is there not a single UV user here? I'd like to further ask the effectiveness of these units.

I'm not expecting a thesis-like reply, end-user observations and opinions will do as well.

Regards,
Ronnie Lee

[benny]

Hi Ronnie,

Didn't see your post till now.

I'll give you my two cents worth.

In my opinion, UV light is great for treating green water, and cloudy water due to bacterial bloom.

As for minimising or eradicating protozoa, fungal and bacterial infection, I'm not too sure. I still get fungus, white spots, columnaris, body rot and other diseases in my tanks. So...you be the judget of that.

As for effective bulb life, it's recommended that it's changed once a year or 8000 hours (as stated in their literature). Replacement bulbs are easily available at establised fish shops, but can cost quite a few tens. I think an 11 w replacement is S$45 if I'm not wrong.

The O rings in the unit should also be changed every year, but you can never get parts for this.

On the subject of reliability, there is a tendency for the black housing to break at the point where the hose connection joins. This will cause the unit to leak, but can be solved with plumber's tape. In fact, you should secure all joints with tape as this is often a cause of leakage.

For 300 L of water, you will probably use the 9 w or 11 w. Higher wattage is also available. Planted aquarists often worry about the UV light reducing the effectiveness of their fertilization regime. You obviously don't have this concern if I'm correct.

These units are sometimes available used, but you have to inspect carefully. Bulb replacement and getting a new outercasing (if necessary) is about 70-80% of the cost.

Lastly, higher flow rate will result in a reduced efficiency of the unit from what I understand. But I cannot remember what is the recommended flowrate.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

[Simon]

Since you are using a sump together with 3 tanks, I seriously think its wise to plan for a UV sterlizer... but what are you intending to keep? if its not sensitive fishes then perharps not necessary.

I previously have the UV sterlizer switched on after lights off for 4 hrs. But mine is a planted tank

[RonWill]

Thanks Benny & Simon for the response, but I couldn't wait and bought a UV-C 2.500 from Pmart.

It's using a 5w bulb and supposed to handle a capacity of 2500Litres... at least that's what the box says.

Hooked it up to a Eheim 1060* and got it running over the weekend. (*With a T-joint and ball valve to cut back output to top tier tank and to reduce flow-through in the UV unit)

Let's see if I can zap enough of those micro-bugs! If it works wonders, I might consider a 2nd unit (perhaps DIY, cos these things aren't chum-change!)

Regards,
Ronnie Lee

[RonWill]

[quote:e3a8c37299="Simon"]... but what are you intending to keep? if its not sensitive fishes then perharps not necessary.[/quote:e3a8c37299]
Forgot to add... the 3 tanks are breeding and growing-out tanks for killifishes.

I'm presently bugged by fungus and possibly velvet, and hopefully the UV will help. Treatment is now with Flubenol (5% Fenbendazole), Japanese 'yellow powder' and a touch of Red Sea marine salt.

Simon and others, I'd appreciate further inputs in maintaining a bug-free environment for my killies.

Regards,
Ronnie Lee

[PeterGwee]

Ronnie, does the diseases come with the killies or did they contract it while living in the tank? Are they under stress? Fishes just don't fall ill by themselves if they are well fed and happy with conditions in the tank. Perharps you water conditions are less than ideal?

I'm not very good at UV but from what I have heard, UV does not kill the bacteria but make them dormant instead. It also boils down to certain type of bacteria though.(Thats what I heard from one of my friends working in the lab.)

For a suggestion, why don't you do a plant filter instead? The plants will take care of the water conditions which will in turn give you healthy fishes.

Regards
Peter Gwee

[RonWill]

[quote:f32cf145e1="PeterGwee"]Ronnie, does the diseases come with the killies or did they contract it while living in the tank? Are they under stress? Fishes just don't fall ill by themselves if they are well fed and happy with conditions in the tank. Perharps you water conditions are less than ideal?[/quote:f32cf145e1]
Hi Peter,
Most of the killies were originally in their own 'closed' environment in that they, including the fry, have their own tanks.

All were fed a mix of livefoods, both cultured and LFS-bought tubifex and daphnia. New pygmy corys which will join the killies, are still under separate quarantine. (I will leave the argument of feeding tubifex out of the picture for now)

The only fish that were out of the 'closed' system and returned recently were a pair of killies, which later developed very rapid fungus infection and the weaker female didn't make it past 2 days, despite treatment.

The stronger male is recovering but before the period of infection (from whatever), the younger frys had already joined the 'integrated system'.

The move to the 'system' and different water conditions, probably stressed the young ones more than I realized, especially with the constant fiddling and adjusting of overflow rate etc.

I can only speculate a couple of things; that I brought something back into the system, that I subjected every inhabitant to an unusually high level of stress and my own complacency.

I'm not very good at UV but from what I have heard, UV does not kill the bacteria but make them dormant instead. It also boils down to certain type of bacteria though.(Thats what I heard from one of my friends working in the lab.)

From what I understand, only free-swimming organisms that passes through the UV will be affected, and hopefully killed. Organisms still on the tank walls or as cysts attached to fishes, remain unaffected.

I'm not sure what actually gets zapped or can be killed, but UV can only be effective when there's adequate 'exposure'. Slowing the flow through the UV is one method. Higher wattage UV bulbs is another.

For a suggestion, why don't you do a plant filter instead? The plants will take care of the water conditions which will in turn give you healthy fishes.

At the top tank, there's a partition that's exclusively for shrimps, snails, 4 otos and plenty of low light plants which includes java moss, java fern, hornwort and anubias. It isn't CO2 fertilized but I think that's what you meant by 'plant filter'?

I'll be taking panadol but meanwhile, keep up with the suggestions... there must be something I overlooked.

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee

[Sleepy_lancs]

[quote:143b447351="RonWill"]Thanks Benny & Simon for the response, but I couldn't wait and bought a UV-C 2.500 from Pmart.

It's using a 5w bulb and supposed to handle a capacity of 2500Litres... at least that's what the box says.

Regards,
Ronnie Lee[/quote:143b447351]

Just a WARNING. The UV you've just got only has warranty on the bulb. The casing and stuff are not under warranty. The joint between the jacket and cap will leak if not careful and trust me... you have to be very careful. Spare parts are difficult to get. Mine was leaking and I am still waiting for them to bring it back to me. It was hell on earth for me.. the tank water was drained to 50% due to a crack cap. fancy a wading pool at home?

[RonWill]

[quote:064d53114f="Sleepy_lancs"]Just a WARNING. The UV you've just got only has warranty on the bulb. The casing and stuff are not under warranty. The joint between the jacket and cap will leak if not careful and trust me...[/quote:064d53114f]
Hi Sleepy_lancs, the transulent screw-in hose set (cap?) was lined with plumbers' tape before hooking everything up and I've checked for leaks... so far so good.

you have to be very careful. Spare parts are difficult to get. Mine was leaking and I am still waiting for them to bring it back to me. It was hell on earth for me.. the tank water was drained to 50% due to a crack cap. fancy a wading pool at home?

Thanks for the fair warning but I'm generally quite careful when working with acrylic or plastic components. Fortunately, in my trade, I've access to materials that can repair cracks, holes and stuffs, so that isn't an issue with me.

If anyone wants to dump their faulty UV unit, I'd be more than happy to receive it and give it a useful life.

As for flooding, I've gone through it more times than I care to remember and am quite acquainted with the mop!

For now, the small (undersized actually for the setup) sump will allow a max of 10 litres to flood out of the system, should there be a power failure.... not a problem either... since it's no longer in the house!

That said, I'm also considering adding ONE MORE UV unit that's plumbed in series... yes... I'm getting a little paranoid here...

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee

[RonWill]

Dear all,

A thought just occured to me... given our phobia with feeding live foods, especially tubifex, because of those nasty pathogens and micro bugs, has anyone considered a recirculating water setup through a UV unit in the tubifex container? That ought to rid, or at least miminize, the risks.

I'm contemplating DIY... any thoughts? oh... I should mention that I'm electronically/electrically handicapped!!

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee

[benny]

A very interesting idea Ronnie. Unfortunately, I'm pretty clueless about electronics too. By the way, the cost may by too probihitive for many, unless you're a breeder with a constant need for the live feed. Most just use it as a occasional treat.

Cheers,

[Sleepy_lancs]

[quote:37a11a271a="RonWill"][quote:37a11a271a="Sleepy_lancs"]Just a WARNING. The UV you've just got only has warranty on the bulb. The casing and stuff are not under warranty. The joint between the jacket and cap will leak if not careful and trust me...[/quote:37a11a271a]
Hi Sleepy_lancs, the transulent screw-in hose set (cap?) was lined with plumbers' tape before hooking everything up and I've checked for leaks... so far so good.
[/quote:37a11a271a]

Nope. Its the black cap which is attached with your uv bulb. Well I had water going into the transparent jacket too. Which means water at the electrical circuit. Very dangerous. Sigh. They still have not got back to me about my problem.

[RonWill]

[quote:1af7127d3c="benny"]A very interesting idea Ronnie. Unfortunately, I'm pretty clueless about electronics too. By the way, the cost may by too probihitive for many, unless you're a breeder with a constant need for the live feed. Most just use it as a occasional treat.[/quote:1af7127d3c]
Benny, most of my killies are fed exclusively live foods, be it from the LFS or self-cultured, and that's something I practiced long ago (old habits die hard!).

As for costs, the initial startup may seem prohibitive* but look at it this way... if your corys (or my killies) are those rarer or more expensive species, it's only logical that we provide them with a healthy environment and 'clean' food for their diet. Hopefully, the DIY UV 'zapper' will save me some bucks without compromising on safety.
(*Even setting up a planted tank has it's costs... CO2 cylinder, regulators, lights, substrate ferts, pH checkers, other gizmos etc)

Also, I don't believe in the 'die-and-replace' routine, where one doesn't give a 2-cents' worth or 2nd thought, regarding water conditions, diet, disease or even general requirements of the fishes! One doesn't have to be a breeder to be a good fishkeeper. I'm gonna give it more thought about a 'tubifex UV'... and let's see what comes out of it.

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee

[RonWill]

[quote:def0c2e8b8="Sleepy_lancs"]Its the black cap which is attached with your uv bulb.[/quote:def0c2e8b8]
Sleepy_lancs, IIRC... the glass housing is sealed off from the main unit (where the water flows around), with a rubber gasket and supposedly can be pried open with a coin for cleaning.

The black cap has a rubber gasket or ring, and it's a pretty good fit there. Being plastic, it's only logical not to overtighten or lose the threads! (worse if you crack it!)

BTW, which UV are you using and why is it taking so long? Is it the cap that's giving you the problem or something else? Water going iinto the bulb area could only mean a leaky ring between the main housing and the glass, or worn threads.

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee

[Sleepy_lancs]

UV-C 2.500 from petmart. And yes to all what you said except that the glass is in perfect condition and the ring was there alright. No one knows whats the problem sent to distributor. The unit was only 3mths old. It had been sent in the 3rd time. Well.. believe it or not.. I only cleaned it once and was okay... but after the 3rd mth.....

[RonWill]

[quote:ef2e2f9867="Sleepy_lancs"]UV-C 2.500 from petmart. And yes to all what you said except that the glass is in perfect condition and the ring was there alright.[/quote:ef2e2f9867]
Sleepy-lancs, I did a quick study of the unit before hooking it up and noted that the sealing ring is quite a tight fit. If you've opened it for cleaning, the rubber should be smeared lightly with vaseline.

No one knows whats the problem sent to distributor. The unit was only 3mths old. It had been sent in the 3rd time.

huh? 3 times within 3 months?? That's not very encouraging...

Well.. believe it or not.. I only cleaned it once and was okay... but after the 3rd mth.....

One question. Why did you think it needed cleaning? Afterall, it was operating only for 3 months and since it's usually connected at the output of a canister or pump, it shouldn't be coated with dirt so fast. Prior to the disassembly, did you treated the tank with powdered medication or.... ?

Thanks for sharing your experience, it gives me a good idea of what to be aware of, and also pitfalls to avoid, should I contemplate a DIY UV.

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee [/quote]