Pictures of my Malawi Tank

[sbnp]

Hi, I am sharing pictures of my tank.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/img3810i.jpg/

The light is a bit dim because it is only 2 ft shining on a 4th tank.

My previous light set accidentally drop into the water.

[redfever]

Nice setup.

[stormhawk]

Neatly done setup. Are you using fine sand for the bottom?

[sbnp]

Hi bro, I am using fine marine sand with coral chips. But I think it is not a good mix cos' much waste is stuck in-between the coral chips. Better to just use marine sand.

[Sinubux]

Great looking setup.

[stormhawk]

You are right in that using pure sand is better than using coarse gravel. However, sand beds can become anaerobic pretty quick, especially for the deeper parts. It might be wise to get a garden rake, so you can churn the sand bed once a week to release any trapped food or poop. Keeps the sand bed healthy because using MTS in these tanks is a no-no since they will not survive the attention of the cichlids.

Nice Nimbochromis venustus there.

[sbnp]

You are right in that using pure sand is better than using coarse gravel. However, sand beds can become anaerobic pretty quick, especially for the deeper parts. It might be wise to get a garden rake, so you can churn the sand bed once a week to release any trapped food or poop. Keeps the sand bed healthy because using MTS in these tanks is a no-no since they will not survive the attention of the cichlids.

Nice Nimbochromis venustus there.

Thanks for sharing bro!

Just a few questions:
1. Isn't it good to be anaerobic for the deeper parts to cultivate certain bacteria that converts nitrate to nitrogen?
2. Using a garden rake to churn the sand is only for the upper portion of the sand? (example, 3 inch thick, only rake 1 inch)
3. What is MTS?

[stormhawk]

It is good in some cases, but it helps to have some tunneling fish or animals in there to churn the substrate for you. Yes that is correct, just rake the top most layer, should dislodge any trapped particles and gas bubbles. MTS is Malayan Trumpet Snail, a livebearing snail that some people use to keep their substrate "fresh". They behave like earthworms in the aquatic sense and clear up any trapped food in the substrate. However, in a cichlid tank they are bound to be eaten.

For maintenance purposes however, it's easier to have a lower depth of fine sand, so you can rake it once a week and siphon out the poop etc. Just hover a piece of airline over the sand, but a distance above it. Making a swirling motion to make the dirt go up into the water column, then you can siphon the gunk out. Pretty easy actually.

[sbnp]

Thanks for sharing about MTS, I shall try that in my planted tank cos' as mentioned, they are bound to get eaten in cichlid tank.

I did try out the method of raking the sand by swirling the siphoning tube, quite a good way though some of my sands get suck in as well. I guess it is alright really, just need to top up the sand once in a few months.

My mistake was mixing coral chips with fine sand. Not a good combination.

[stormhawk]

You can use a sieve on the drain part to collect any leftover sand after siphoning. As for the MTS, their population can explode, literally, if well fed. They will produce babies all the time. If you find that you have too many, wait at night. They will crawl out of the substrate when it's dark and hang out along the tank walls etc. Very easy to net them out that way.

[sbnp]

You seems to have thought of everything. A very good aquarist indeed. Btw, what fishes are you keeping? Pardon me for my ignorance cos' I am still new in AQ.

[sbnp]

What a joke I am, didn't see your footnote. Ha ha ha........... now I know.

[sbnp]

I just set up another tank for juveniles malawi cichlids, 1.5ft (L) x 2ft (B) x 2.5 ft (H)

Pictures and videos below:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/img3887z.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/img3886w.jpg/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRAt0...00AUAAAAAAAAAA

[stormhawk]

Nicely done, I see some young mbuna in there. The tank looks like a marine setup at first glance. Good luck with your cichlid journey. I don't quite like the big ones but if I had space I would focus on the Julidochromis species, or the small shelldwellers.

[sbnp]

Yes bro, was considering some of the Tanga fishes initially, which would be more ideal where growth rate is concerned (slower). But set back by cost. Nevertheless, I am a mbuna lover, just that they tends to grow big. This is also my first time setting up a tank with a sump. Still experimenting and improving. So far so good.

[stormhawk]

Shouldn't be an issue because sumps are excellent for maximum filtration capacity. If you have a drip system in the sump it'll work even better via the wet/dry effect.

You can also utilise an algae scrubber system. See this link: http://www.livingreefs.com/build-alg...er-t32422.html

The person who made this "scrubber" also posts here in AQ, in the DIY section under the nick of Santa Monica.

[sbnp]

I will give a simple description of my sump below:

Water will flow from a compartment in the tank (IOS?).

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/img3896cu.jpg/

I presently fill up the compartment with filter wool. Perhaps your mention of drip system via the wet/dry effect is best utilise here (by putting in bioball)?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/img3898h.jpg/

Water will flow downward to an opening, which in turn leads to the sump. I am thinking of adding more Jap Mat at this portion.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/img3900n.jpg/

A picture of my sump, with 6 mini compartments.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/img38462s.jpg/

Compartment A consist of another piece of filter wool, while the rest is filled up with Jap Mat

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/img3901yx.jpg/

Compartment B consist of ceramic rings (normal type) and 2 packs of this material (don't know what name)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/img3905l.jpg/

Compartment C consist of a pack of this cement-like material (don't know what name)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/img3904na.jpg/

Compartment D consists of another 2 packs of same material as in compartment B.

Compartment E is for monitoring of water level and temperature.

Compartment F is the outflow motor and a pack of coral chips.

As you can see from the above, the set up is very simple and low budget. I will improve on it a step at a time. Where possible, I will separate the compartments with a piece of Jap mat to ensure maximum filtration and exposure.

Please feel free to comment and improve on the sump design. With 6 compartments, many possibilities abound.

[sbnp]

Thanks for the tip on algae scrubber. Based on the article, it will:

1. Create a more natural feel for the fish by providing nutrients naturally
2. Help to eliminate algae growth in the tank
3. It is cheap and affordable to do, lots of DIY (I like!!)
4. Minimal maintenance (once a week)

The drawback for me could be the 18 hours turning on of the lighting, with a timer.

Will have a more detailed reading and conclude later.

Thanks bro!

[stormhawk]

You can replace the typical lighting with LED lights for the scrubber, might be cheaper. I have my own "algae scrubber" but it's natural. The algae grew over the outflow tubes from my OHF compartment that gets water from my canister filter. Once a month I just remove as much as I can with my bare fingers.

I think you can replace the stuff in compartment C with lava chips and compartment D with BioHome or something similar like Bacter House. The wet/dry effect is already in place in your sump, where your Japanese mat currently is placed. You don't have to do anything for that compartment. For the internal overflow, replace the lower sections of filter wool with bioballs, but place a piece of filter wool right at top of the bio balls. You only need to replace this filter wool every now and then since it will trap most of the stuff from the tank. The bio balls need not be replaced.

Basic effect of wet/dry is to let the water flow over them like a trickle, thereby giving the bacteria moisture but maximum colonising space on the surfaces of the bio balls.

[sbnp]

That means you just place a OHF with no media and filter, but direct the canister filter outlet to it and let the algae grow there naturally? Did you put lighting? What colour is the algae?

I always wonder whether those brownish stuff in the inlet and outlet tubes of canister filter are algae. Perhaps they are, or just a combination of waste and algae.

Thanks for the recommendation on stuffs to put for the compartments. Aim to improve on phase 2. Could be doing up a bakki shower in the internal overflow and add in bacteria house. As what you mention, just place a piece of filter wool on top of it.

Been reading up a bit on sump filtration. I think many veteran seems to vouch for bacteria house. Seems to me it will be ideal to have it.