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Thread: CO2 split valve wouldn't unscrew!

  1. #1

    CO2 split valve wouldn't unscrew!

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    I bought a CO2 Split valve for my cylinder. The thing is the male connector on the cylinder cant be unscrewed no matter how hard I tried. Anyone had any experience for this?

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    did you make use of a spanner?
    tried turning both directions, clockwise & ccounter clockwise?
    try spraying a little wd-40.

    and what do you mean by male connector on the cylinder?
    male connector connecting to/between what?

  3. #3

    Re:

    [quote:3481c80dec="tawauboy"]did you make use of a spanner?
    tried turning both directions, clockwise & ccounter clockwise?
    try spraying a little wd-40.

    and what do you mean by male connector on the cylinder?
    male connector connecting to/between what?[/quote:3481c80dec]

    yes I did. Used spanner, monkey wrench, all sorts! haha...the guy from the shop told me can use wd-40 also...

    the male connector is actually on the single secondary release valve. it is used to connect the piping to the CO2 diffuser.

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    looks like you'll need a table vice to clamp the device.

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    Re: CO2 split valve wouldn't unscrew!

    [quote:18ec4509="Green Devil"]I bought a CO2 Split valve for my cylinder. The thing is the male connector on the cylinder cant be unscrewed no matter how hard I tried. Anyone had any experience for this?[/quote:18ec4509]
    Hi,
    You must be having as much fun as I did! Had you provided more details or provided a pic of the splitter you're trying to crack, that would have helped.

    Why would you want to unscrew the male connector??? Can't you use it 'as is'?

    I lost a fair bit of hair but if your problem is similar to mine, have a look here and here. (Best viewed with IE... I'm having some text problems with Netscape)

    Keep 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Take it back to where you got it, ask them to do it for you since you paid for that.
    Cheers!

    Benetay

  7. #7
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    Ronnie,

    Please don't do this,


    You are exposing the needle valve straight to 1000PSI, you know that 'manual Regulator' are no Regulator and they can't do a good job in reducing pressure.

    I think you also know that the needle valve is not designed for 1000PSI. It may be able to hold the pressure now...as the brass ages, it may gets brittle and weaken...or may be even earlier...

    Hope nothing had happen yet, please don't take risk that has high chance of failure....think of your children and family...

    Someone else..please talk him out.

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    Re:

    Eric, thanks for the concern. I have thought about that too, which was why I bought another dual gauge regulator as shown in one of the links.

    I wouldn't recommend this move to anyone else, even if he/she has more balls than I do, but the needle valves aren't "really" subjected to 1000psi.

    Via a separate gauge, I've fixed the regulator valve (black knob with the orange label) to a reduced 1.0 bar before hitting the needle valves... admittedly, this isn't the safest route.

    It's been running since Oct 30th 2003 and it's holding up well. When the CO2 cylinder empties out, I'll swap over to the other regulator and mount the splitter there.

    In the worst case scenario, when things goes awry, it won't be happening inside the house.

    Regards,
    Ronnie Lee

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    Re:

    [quote:512d672c="RonWill"].....but the needle valves aren't "really" subjected to 1000psi.

    Via a separate gauge, I've fixed the regulator valve (black knob with the orange label) to a reduced 1.0 bar before hitting the needle valves... [/quote:512d672c]

    Ron,
    Can tell that you are quite a techie guy...You propably connected a gauge to check that the valve(orange) output is <1000PSI before you connect the needle valves...

    But from you article you wrote, your reader may not have understood that and may make the same attempt without the safety consideration or precaution that you had made.

    I just saw another thread asking how to split the CO2 from a regulator to share among 2 fishtanks...then someone answer, 'just buy a Y spliter (with 2 needle valves) and connect it to the regulator'....

    My worry is, without knowing what 'regulator' he meant, it could be just a 'Manual Regulator' (which is valve)...This advice may cause the poor guy to connect Y spliter to the 'Manual Regulator' which is dangerous...

    Thanks

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    Re:

    Eric, you're right... the poorly worded article is, on hindsight, somewhat misleading and for anyone following this thread, I'll advise caution.

    I'm no techie and am as afraid as the next guy, of things blowing up. There were a few missed shots as I didn't have the camera at hand but I should be able to summarise it as follows;

    The cylinder valve or CV, at the top of the cylinder, is basically to turn ON and OFF.

    Before continuing, I attached a gauge to one of the outputs controlled by the needle valves (NV) in the brass splitter. The other NV output will act as a release valve, at least while I'm test-calibrating the pressure.

    The 'labelled-knob' (LK) on the 'manual regulator' is nothing more than reducer and it is fully open.

    The CV is opened or turn ON. I look at the gauge and if it's higher than my intended 1.5 bar (or approx 22 PSI), I turn the LK down. To purge and test again, I release the pressure inside the splitter (remember that one of the 2 NV isn't attached to anything?). I then repeat this step until I get 1.5 bar. For pressure conversion, try this. (For other Specialist Calculators, check their index).

    Once the reduced pressure can be repeatedly achieved, I used LockTite to 'fix' the LK, so I don't have to fiddle with it again.

    At 1.5 bar (or approx 22 PSI), it's reasonably safe (I think), to send the CO2 pressure to the NV, where you can then fine-tune your BPS or Bubbles Per Second.

    It's a bit of a hassle to do what I've done, but I'm one of those "die die must try" sorta fella... so proceed at your own risks.

    Just remember this... the cylinder pressure can be as high as 1000 PSI !!!

    I just saw another thread asking how to split the CO2 from a regulator to share among 2 fishtanks...then someone answer, 'just buy a Y spliter (with 2 needle valves) and connect it to the regulator'....
    Yeah, I read that one too but wouldn't want to encourage it! The splitter should ALWAYS be fitted AFTER a gauged regulator!

    Regards,
    Ronnie Lee

  11. #11

    Re: CO2 split valve wouldn't unscrew!

    I think wat I meant is the 'connector' that was mentioned in the first link u provided. Until now, still couldn't get it opened. Even try using WD40!

    [quote:0ec98cd3a7="RonWill"][quote:0ec98cd3a7="Green Devil"]I bought a CO2 Split valve for my cylinder. The thing is the male connector on the cylinder cant be unscrewed no matter how hard I tried. Anyone had any experience for this?[/quote:0ec98cd3a7]
    Hi,
    You must be having as much fun as I did! Had you provided more details or provided a pic of the splitter you're trying to crack, that would have helped.

    Why would you want to unscrew the male connector??? Can't you use it 'as is'?

    I lost a fair bit of hair but if your problem is similar to mine, have a look here and here. (Best viewed with IE... I'm having some text problems with Netscape)

    Keep 'em fingers wet,
    Ronnie Lee[/quote:0ec98cd3a7]

  12. #12
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    Re: CO2 split valve wouldn't unscrew!

    [quote:94e5e8d62f="Green Devil"]I think wat I meant is the 'connector' that was mentioned in the first link u provided. Until now, still couldn't get it opened. Even try using WD40!
    [/quote:94e5e8d62f]

    Hi Devil, it is not easy to open that if you hold it in you hand, they apply Loctite in the factory....I tried that before...What I did was mount the whole valve onto the cylinder...it is easier to hold the cylinder than the valve alone, (however you don't need to hold the cylinder).

    Mount the valve onto the cylinder, lie the cylinder down, take a giant Monkey Wrench (adjustible spanner, must be big enough so that by making use of the moment, you can turn the connector easily).

    Then position yourself right above the cylinder, press the wrench towards the floor to open the connector....

    Not quite sure you can understand...anyway good luck..

  13. #13

    Re: CO2 split valve wouldn't unscrew!

    I understand what you mean...but I don't think I'm splitting the CO2 anymore. Decided not to have to planteds...

    Anyone wants to buy a split valve?

    [quote:27108e9c7c="eric_kclee"][quote:27108e9c7c="Green Devil"]I think wat I meant is the 'connector' that was mentioned in the first link u provided. Until now, still couldn't get it opened. Even try using WD40!
    [/quote:27108e9c7c]

    Hi Devil, it is not easy to open that if you hold it in you hand, they apply Loctite in the factory....I tried that before...What I did was mount the whole valve onto the cylinder...it is easier to hold the cylinder than the valve alone, (however you don't need to hold the cylinder).

    Mount the valve onto the cylinder, lie the cylinder down, take a giant Monkey Wrench (adjustible spanner, must be big enough so that by making use of the moment, you can turn the connector easily).

    Then position yourself right above the cylinder, press the wrench towards the floor to open the connector....

    Not quite sure you can understand...anyway good luck..[/quote:27108e9c7c]

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