Regarding manual regulator.

**heavenhell** · 26th Jan 2004, 21:36

Hi, does the knob on the manual regulator control the bubble rate? many people mentioned abt needle valve, does manual regulator have it or it comes only for solenoid regulator. Thanks

**bobalston** · 27th Jan 2004, 00:10

YOu really need a needle valve to get the fine adjustment you will need. Take a look at my web site for more info.

http://members.cox.net/tulsaalstons/...Pressure%20CO2

Bob

**heavenhell** · 27th Jan 2004, 10:22

thanks, so needle vavle needs to be bought seperately. any1 knows how much one cost?

**juggler** · 27th Jan 2004, 11:38

[quote:d03119073a="bobalston"]YOu really need a needle valve to get the fine adjustment you will need. Take a look at my web site for more info.

http://members.cox.net/tulsaalstons/...Pressure%20CO2

Bob[/quote:d03119073a]

Very comprehensive CO2 links. Here's one I like with a photo.
http://www.brainyday.com/jared/aquarium/discus/co2.htm

[quote:d03119073a="heavenhell"]thanks, so needle vavle needs to be bought seperately. any1 knows how much one cost?[/quote:d03119073a]

Correct me if I am wrong, most of the Taiwanese regulators we got here comes with a needle valve. We can adust the bubble rate to like 1 bubble per second. There's a picture of it in this thread link http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...hreadid=104920

**Flare** · 27th Jan 2004, 11:52

For my 3ft tank, 50USG, I have a presurrized CO2 tank, with a munual regulator connected to a reactor. I set my lights on everyday from 7am to 3pm. When I go to work in the morning at 8am, I adjust the regulator to 2 bps. When I get hm in the evening, I close the tap on the regulator. There will be co2 left in the reactor. I just leave it. When I go to work the next morning, I repeat the same process. Plants r thriving. The main disadv of a manual regulator is that it is bubble rate is not consistent. If you dun adjust it everyday, the bubbling rate will simply stop. Meaning to say, if u set it to 2bps today, there will be none tomorrow. That is y I always need to to adjust it in the morning. I guess thats where the fun lies for me.

**heavenhell** · 27th Jan 2004, 13:23

,so much trouble. is there any manual regulator tat will be consistent in output?

**juggler** · 27th Jan 2004, 14:42

My tanks are are without solenoid. I have no trouble setting the bubbling rate on the manual regulator. It may need a few days of fine-tuning. When it stablises, I don't turn it off. I leave it running all the time, just like the old days when I used DIY CO2. Do monitor the bubbling rate so that it is not too high that it kills your fish.

Measure your kH and pH to get the good amount of CO2 in your tank and not too much.

**tawauboy** · 27th Jan 2004, 16:35

[quote:7e1347

c0="heavenhell"]

,so much trouble. is there any manual regulator tat will be consistent in output?[/quote:7e1347

c0]

what is your definition of a manual regulator?
also, what is consistent output? constant output pressure or constant bubble rate?
any regulator, both automatic and manual, is used to regulate output pressure. it will reduce the tank pressure of 1000+psi to a working pressure of < 60psi.
to control bubble rate, you’ll need a needle valve.
to switch on/off your co2 inject automatically (by using a timer or ph controller), you’ll need a solenoid valve.

**heavenhell** · 27th Jan 2004, 20:46

hi tawauboy , i mean the regulator with just 1 guage. is tat called manual reg, correct mi if i'm wrong. i mean constant bubble rate, sorrie abt tat, dun know the right term to use.

Juggler, do u use needle vavle? how much will the vavle cost?
Thanks all for the info.[/quote]

**eric_kclee** · 27th Jan 2004, 21:34

[quote:d889a58112="heavenhell"]do u use needle vavle? how much will the vavle cost?
Thanks all for the info.[/quote:d889a58112]

Is someone going to connect needle valve to 'Manual Regulator' (not a regulator) AGAIN???!!!???

**tawauboy** · 28th Jan 2004, 00:01

[quote:5ce5925b26="heavenhell"]................ the regulator with just 1 guage. is tat called manual reg, ............[/quote:5ce5925b26]
that, i believe is not a regulator. it is just a ball valve to turn on/off the co2 supply.
constant bubble rate can only be controlled with a needle valve. cost in the region of $30.

**af2373** · 28th Jan 2004, 00:14

yo, i'm no expert here but i just went thru the same problems lately, almost went berserk with the manual reg.....correct me if i'm wrong, pp.

the NV works with the solenoid...those with 2 meters r solenoid reg. heard it's abt $110 at NA....do not quote me....
manual regulator r those with 1 meter.
heard from some technical guys tat it's not quite possible for the NV to work with manual cos of the pressure diff. co2 tank pressure is usually 100psi, u need a solenoid to step down the pressure to 50psi before u can control it with the NV.

just be patient with the manual reg, spend a few sleepless nites and u'll be able to get it to bubble constantly and consistently....be patient.

my wife tot i xiao liao...fiddling with tat thingy day and night.....

[quote:45150938ef="heavenhell"]hi tawauboy , i mean the regulator with just 1 guage. is tat called manual reg, correct mi if i'm wrong. i mean constant bubble rate, sorrie abt tat, dun know the right term to use.

Juggler, do u use needle vavle? how much will the vavle cost?
Thanks all for the info.[/quote:45150938ef][/quote]

**heavenhell** · 28th Jan 2004, 00:33

huh, tat means onli those with 2 guage with solenoid are considered real regulator huh.
Thanks for everyones reply.

**tawauboy** · 28th Jan 2004, 00:35

as mentioned earlier, regulator, needle valve and solenoid are 3 different items, each performing a different function.

regulator - regulates output pressure
needle valve - control flow rate
solenoid valve - electrical control to switch on/off co2 supply
'manual regulator' - not a regulator at all, just a ball valve

needle valve can used in setups without solenoid but must work with regulators.

'manual regulator' cannot control bubble rate well because the valve is almost fully closed. and opening the valve by a few degrees could mean full blast output.

**heavenhell** · 29th Jan 2004, 00:42

regulator - regulates output pressure
needle valve - control flow rate
solenoid valve - electrical control to switch on/off co2 supply
'manual regulator' - not a regulator at all, just a ball valve

icic

. so how to differentiate bet ball valve n real regulator visually?

To juggler: so u are using the ball valve right?

Correct me if I am wrong, most of the Taiwanese regulators we got here comes with a needle valve. We can adust the bubble rate to like 1 bubble per second. There's a picture of it in this thread link http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...hreadid=104920

can any1 verify tis? Thanks

**eric_kclee** · 29th Jan 2004, 01:00

[quote:ff87ecd8e7="tawauboy"]
regulator - regulates output pressure
needle valve - control flow rate
solenoid valve - electrical control to switch on/off co2 supply
'manual regulator' - not a regulator at all, just a ball valve
[/quote:ff87ecd8e7]

May I add on regarding needle valve and 'manual regulator'?

needle valve - a valve to change the flow orifice, together with constant pressure it can control flowrate. If pressure fluctuate, flow rate also fluctuate. you need both constant pressure and constant orifice to control and maintain a flow rate.

'manual regulator' - just a valve!, it shut the valve very small such that it restrict the flow and create the pressure drop. When the tank pressure fluctuate, the flow rate also fluctuate...so very difficult to control flow rate by this method.

**eric_kclee** · 29th Jan 2004, 01:09

[quote:143fc3d7e1="juggler"]
Correct me if I am wrong, most of the Taiwanese regulators we got here comes with a needle valve. We can adust the bubble rate to like 1 bubble per second. There's a picture of it in this thread link http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...hreadid=104920[/quote:143fc3d7e1]

Juggler,
That is the 'Manual Regulator' in the picture. And this is no Regulator...You can call it a valve. For this valve, most people have problem with it to maintain the Bubble rate. However some claim that it can be done, the trick is...once you got the BPS, don't touch the setting and leave it on 24/7...If you on/off daily, it will not be precise (due to wear and backlash)and tends to be irratic. Personally, I don't have good experience using this.

**eric_kclee** · 29th Jan 2004, 01:13

[quote:7a033ec2b8="heavenhell"]
so how to differentiate bet ball valve n real regulator visually?
[/quote:7a033ec2b8]

To tell a real regulator visually, a quick and dirty way is to look out for the gauges. always insist on 2 gauges.

However that doesn't mean that REAL regulator cannot have single gauge. This is just a quick method, good enough for most common regulator.

**tawauboy** · 29th Jan 2004, 11:17

some lfs uses the term ‘pressure reducer’ for a regulator.
you can distinguish by the price, valves about $30+, regulator about $100+ and above.
anyway, I believe most ‘single gauge regulator’ are valves while regulators have twin gauges.