Tricky situation in using air pump & satellite breeding box

[ralliart12]

Hi fellows, here's the situation:

I intend to use a satellite breeding box (attached to the side of my tank) to house all the miscellaneous flora & fauna that isn't intended to be in the main tank. Though I haven't use such a box before, but from other websites I believe the water flow through the box is driven by airflow provided from an air-pump?

On the other hand, I intend to have an air pump that is only activated after the tank lights go out, in order to ensure certain level of aeration when the plants stop their photosynthesis.

At first, I was glad to realize I have a twin-outlet air-pump handy to service the 2 requirements, i.e. the air-stone & pushing water through the satellite breeding box, while using only one piece of equipment. However, the problem is, I realized that I need one outlet to work all the time (the tube that is connected to the satellite breeding box), while I only need the other outlet (the one connected to an air-stone in the main tank) to work during the hours when the lights are off.

Anybody has any suggestion besides using 2 separate air-pumps (& using a timer on one of the pumps)?

[RonWill]

If you're not using CO² fertilization, I don't see any issues with leaving the air pump on 24/7.

[ralliart12]

If you're not using CO² fertilization, I don't see any issues with leaving the air pump on 24/7.

Hi Ron, that's the thing: the main tank will be having CO² injected.

[mincedmeat]

I would think this situation was self created much like how I always get myself into a fix . I really don't think you would able to get the best of both worlds in this situation. Even if you do get a solution, a DIY project would be too costly in time and money as compared to getting another air pump.

[Navanod]

A very costly way is to DIY a solenoid valve on one of the airline, similar to those for CO2. It'll probably be more cost effective to invest on a cheapo air pump instead

[ralliart12]

In the end, I am probably going to forgo the 2nd outlet which is driving an airstone for aeration (only at night). I was informed otherwise that even without explicit aeration, I will be quite hard-pressed to see a situation where my fauna will have to compete with my flora for oxygen content in the water after a days' worth of photosynthesis.

Secondly, perhaps the little flow of water back from the (lip of the) satellite breeding tank into the main tank's water surface is adequate to provide some very minimal air exchange...

In other words, what I'm saying is, I'm probably dropping the idea of having air pumped into the tank at night. Hence, removing the "problematic" requirement.

Oh yah, thanks for everyone's input into this matter.

N.B. I still intend to keep the lip of the satellite breeding tank below the water surface so that there's not too much splashing though.

[ralliart12]

Replied to wrong thread.

[RonWill]

In the end, I am probably going to forgo the 2nd outlet which is driving an airstone for aeration (only at night)

That's probably the wisest decision without doing a huge roundabout back to square one.

I can only suppose that like most aqua-gardeners, there would be 2 timers in your setup controlling CO² solenoid and lighting. If you're concerned with high residual CO² in the night, adjust the timer for solenoid to come on one hour before LIGHT ON and switch off one hour before LIGHT OFF. Doing so will allow the plants to utilize remaining CO² before the fishes get their 40 winks.

That was how I used to do it anyway but let me know if it works for you. Yes... YMMV.

[ralliart12]

...I can only suppose that like most aqua-gardeners, there would be 2 timers in your setup controlling CO² solenoid and lighting. If you're concerned with high residual CO² in the night, adjust the timer for solenoid to come on one hour before LIGHT ON and switch off one hour before LIGHT OFF. Doing so will allow the plants to utilize remaining CO² before the fishes get their 40 winks...

Yup, that is how I am intending to configure my CO² system when my tank's up & running.

[mincedmeat]

Hmm, I think you might mean 1 hour after light on and before light off?

[ralliart12]

Hmm, I think you might mean 1 hour after light on and before light off?

Nope, really mean 1 hour before light on to get the water saturated with CO² so that the plants can immediately kick-start their photosynthesis the moment the lights come on.

[RonWill]

Hmm, I think you might mean 1 hour after light on and before light off?

No, I meant exactly what was said, "adjust the timer for solenoid to come on one hour before LIGHT ON and switch off one hour before LIGHT OFF."

Having the solenoid turn on hour BEFORE LIGHT ON will allow the water to be adequately saturated (unlikely though) for the plants to utilize the CO² immediately once the light is switched on. Reason for turning off CO² one hour before LIGHT OFF... as stated above.

[RonWill]

Hahaha!!! ...and who said service at AQ is slow??

[tetrakid]

I like aqua gardening very much, but it is even more demanding than normal gardening.

If I can't become good at producing beautiful garden plants first, I will never embark on aqua gardening. Unless of course it's only cultivating green water algae, which I am sort of already expert in, lol.

[mincedmeat]

No, I meant exactly what was said, "adjust the timer for solenoid to come on one hour before LIGHT ON and switch off one hour before LIGHT OFF."

Having the solenoid turn on hour BEFORE LIGHT ON will allow the water to be adequately saturated (unlikely though) for the plants to utilize the CO² immediately once the light is switched on. Reason for turning off CO² one hour before LIGHT OFF... as stated above.

Interesting. I will bear this in mind. I haven't really gotten down to getting a CO2 tank to the planted is very much low-tech, but good advice!