T5 lighting discussion

[cheeboonyong]

http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=11453

Hi,

see this discussion on DIY T5 at sgreefclub. They are discussing the daylight type, not the actinic types, so probably usable on freshwater tanks.

I think T5 is probably better than PL in performance but drawback is the high cost of aquarium T5 like Arcadia, etc. If DIY is possible, this may be the solution to overcoming migration from PL to T5.

[cheeboonyong]

This is what I gathered after calling a lighting shop

Osram FQ54W (T5 high output) Daylight - $11.50 each tube
E-ballast (drives 2 x 54W tube) - $60 each ballast
End-caps - $15 each (1 needed per tube)

So final cost for a 2x54W fixture is
$22+$60+$30 =$112

Further costs that needs to go in are the reflectors and fixture and electrical plug. Not sure how much.

The 54W bulb is meant for 4ft length.

The costs stated above are all small quantities for retail sales. Bulk purchase is likely to be cheaper. Anyone else interested to try this out with me?

[BFG]

Cheeboonyong, how much would it cost for a 3ft set?

[benny]

Dymax was selling the T5 FL lights during Aquarama 2003. The 2 ft models were going for S$42 if I recall correctly. The 4 ft ones were not too far off. Prices are fairly acceptable.

For those interested, check wiht ADEC Trading (Agent for Dymax) before you embark on the DIY project. No point re-inventing the wheel if an "off the shelf" solution cost less. Unless you are a DIY fan.

Cheers,

[cheeboonyong]

I've not seen the ADEC (or Dymax or Atman or whatever) on sale here in Singapore. Nor did I go to Aquarama. So anyone can point out where it's on sale, would really appreciate it.

One IMPORTANT point to clarify is this: is the ADEC (or whatever) T5 lights the HO (High Output) or the normal output type? The difference in lumens is tremendous. There has been numerous cases of marine hobbyists saying that T5 HO is MUCH brighter than PL. See www.sgreefclub.com for more discussions. The HO type has been used as a substitute for MH in marine tanks due to lower heat generation. That should give you some idea of how bright it is. The drawback is that its effectiveness beyond 2ft depth is not as good as MH. But really, how many of us have >2ft depth tanks? I have seen the normal output type at Far East Aquatic on their display racks and it's NORMAL.

If you see the T5 range used in marine hobby, the cost of 1 T5 High Output is >$50, not to mention a complete set. I think the $42 set for 2ft should be a normal output type, not the HO type, based on price comparison.

One point I noted is difference between high and normal output. The normal output does not require any ballast to drive it, just a starter, whereas the HO type requires a special e-ballast.

[cheeboonyong]

Cheeboonyong, how much would it cost for a 3ft set?

I have no idea. There is no "set" as yet. I only know where to get the component pieces. For a ready set, I suggest you visit www.eaquanature.com, although their solutions are targeted at marine hobbyists. See the ATI range. You pay for what you get; i.e., set is definitely more expensive than DIY but it's ready solution.

As for 3ft DIY, I believe the combination is 39W. So you need a e-ballast to drive 2 tubes (not sure for 39W is how much $), then 2 tubes (around $10 I suspect) and 2 pairs of end-caps ($15 per pair).

[cheeboonyong]

For those interested, check wiht ADEC Trading (Agent for Dymax) before you embark on the DIY project. No point re-inventing the wheel if an "off the shelf" solution cost less. Unless you are a DIY fan.

just called up ADEC. They do NOT sell T5 lights.

Anyone knows who are the agents for Atman? I think it's Atman T5 seen at Aquarama, not Dymax.

[plantmania]

I am currently weighting between MH and T5 for my 4 ft planted ....

Since mine is an imported tank.... it's hood design fits snugly over the tank and the colour is matched to the tank and cabinet. Only problem is they are using 90 W of FL lights.

2 choices
1) Throw the hood away and replace with a MH system. I hate to hang things on my ceiling .... So I need to find an overtank type of MH. Seen the Dymax clip-ons, Arcadia Overtank MH series and DIYs....Pricewise is about
1000 , 2600 , 600(+hardwork) respectively.....

2) Change the fittings of the hood to T5 tubes and ballast..... Either ATI's T5 retrofit series or DIY T5.... Pricewise is about 900, 300(+hardwork) respectively....

Which choice will be better ?

[cheeboonyong]

I am currently weighting between MH and T5 for my 4 ft planted ....

Exactly same situation as me, except that I have given up MH for my planted tank, mainly because I cannot hang the MH from the ceiling and therefore temperature becomes a problem. I do not intend and cannot invest in a chiller, due to safety reasons (baby crawling about)

Since mine is an imported tank.... it's hood design fits snugly over the tank and the colour is matched to the tank and cabinet. Only problem is they are using 90 W of FL lights.

2 choices
1) Throw the hood away and replace with a MH system. I hate to hang things on my ceiling .... So I need to find an overtank type of MH. Seen the Dymax clip-ons, Arcadia Overtank MH series and DIYs....Pricewise is about
1000 , 2600 , 600(+hardwork) respectively.....

If you want to go MH, there's another option for those hang-over type, called Weipro. I think Azoo and OceanFree also has those hangover types. Price for Weipro for 4ft is <1k, but still substantial. I think about 800-900 (not too sure). So far the advice that people have given me is that temperature will be a problem. Go chiller if you want MH. Fans probably not good enough.

2) Change the fittings of the hood to T5 tubes and ballast..... Either ATI's T5 retrofit series or DIY T5.... Pricewise is about 900, 300(+hardwork) respectively....

ATI T5 is indeed very expensive. However, it has a good record from all the marine hobbyists who have used it. However, given that you have a nice hood already, you may want to try to DIy the T5 lights using your existing hood. Personally, I'm keen to try out DIY T5 using Osram lights, mainly due to the cost savings. If you're keen, give me a ring. I'm hopeless at wiring DIY stuff, so getting someone to give me a hand for a small fee. 9743 8882

Ultimately though, no one can decide for you. I can only give you pros and cons per my limited knowledge. Up to you to decide. Take note though, the majority of the people here in this forum are still firm believers of PL (and for a good reason). In fact, T5 does not appear to be have much visibility, so you will be a pioneer (or guinea pig) if you wish to go the T5 route.

[BFG]

Cheeboonyong, I am aware of the ATI T5 availability but the price for 4x39w plus the dimmable switch would set me back ard $600++ or more. I really have to give this some serious thought. My tank is 2ft deep.

[cheeboonyong]

Cheeboonyong, I am aware of the ATI T5 availability but the price for 4x39w plus the dimmable switch would set me back ard $600++ or more. I really have to give this some serious thought. My tank is 2ft deep.

if price is a problem, why not DIY? I'm trying that out. Of course not with ATI tubes with Osram T5 HO tubes instead. I believe should be just as effective as ATI. One advantage freshwater hobbyists has over marine is that we can use the commercial daylight tubes for everyday use, which is invariably cheaper. The marine hobbyists have to use the actinic stuff, which I think is rarely used for commercial purposes, so no choice for them but to pay the aquarium prices.

side note: why do you need the dimmable switch? The marine people use this to simulate dawn and dusk (I think). Freshwater is not necessary.

[BFG]

The dimmer would help as my fish would not dash around when the lights suddenly turn off, plunging the tank into total darkness. Could the Osram T5 HO bulb replace the ATI T5 bulb? I kinda like the ATI casing. But since you gonna diy yours, I would wait and see how yours turn out.

[vinz]

Isn't there heat issues with the T5 as compared to PLs?

Is the penetration of the T5 as good as that of the PL?

[cheeboonyong]

Isn't there heat issues with the T5 as compared to PLs?

Is the penetration of the T5 as good as that of the PL?

All that I know are testimonials and 2nd hand knowledge from the marine people. So to answer your questions with more certainty, I would have to get my DIY project completed first.

In any case, here's my 2nd hand info:

Heat: Not as hot as MH. Not sure about comparison with PL. It's basically a FL type of light, so should not be too different from PL. Marine people are using T5 with just fans, no chiller. It also uses e-ballast, so there should be minimal heat generated from the ballast.

Penetration: Should be better than PL. Based on marine experience again.

Don't take my word for it. Go see it for yourself. Heard that there's a T5 display set at Downtown East (can't remember name of the aquarium, but there's only one there), Pasir Ris. See it to believe it (or disbelieve it).

[tawauboy]

Isn't there heat issues with the T5 as compared to PLs?

Is the penetration of the T5 as good as that of the PL?

if t5 efficiency is better than pl then t5 will give off less heat. anyway, all tube will be hot when switched on. using fans would minimise this problem.

t5 penetration would be better if t5 has a much higher output compared to a pl.

[cheeboonyong]

PL (for 55W) gives off 4550 lumens while the T5 HO for FQ54W gives off 4050 lumens

This seems to contradict the impression that T5 is "brighter" than PL. More fuel to add into the discussion. So which is better?

[bclee]

PL (for 55W) gives off 4550 lumens while the T5 HO for FQ54W gives off 4050 lumens

This seems to contradict the impression that T5 is "brighter" than PL. More fuel to add into the discussion. So which is better?

In fact the Lumilux T8 range gives the best lumens/W. (58W T8 gives 5000 lumens.)

IMO, It is down to the form factor... the space you have... the looks you want.

BC

[cheeboonyong]

Hi,

finally completed my DIY T5 lights. Well, not actually DIY myself but with the generous help of fellow forumer and friend Barbarik.

It's 55W x 6 tubes for a 4ft tank. The e-ballast are located in my tank cabinet, not in the light casing. I split the 6 tubes into 2 casing of 3 tubes each.


Lights on.


Lights off


Casing.


Another view of casing with lights on.

[cheeboonyong]

Heat wise, it's defintely hot when you touch the casing. But the heat dissipates really fast when you move away. In fact, the heat is minimal like 2 cm away from the tube. I have no problems with rising tank temperature at all. One fan is enough to keep my 4ft tank very cool, about 27-28 degrees.

Intensity wise, also very happy. Best part is that you get end to end coverage of the whole tank because the tube is not bent, so you extend it evenly throughout the whole 4ft length.

[DLSM]

So at the end of the day, What was the costs? and has the new lights imrpoved things - like plant growth?