UV Steriliser

[Clement79]

Hi,

I had tried using the search mode. But can't find anything on UV Steriliser

What I have doubt is what is the wattage require for UV Steriliser to kill green water on a 4ft by 2ft by 2ft tank. Any flowrate limitation?

Hope this may benefits other people if they encounter this problem.

Cheers.

[shortman]

There are 3 types of UV, UV-A, UV-B and UV-C. The wavelength make the different of all this.

UV A: 320-400 nm
UV B: 280-320 nm
UV C : 200-280 nm

In aquarium we use the UV-C to destroy the cell. It is vrey Dangerous when explose to it with human nake eye.

The amount of time the algae spend in the UV tube for a particular watt of UV is important.

The flow rate depends on the type of the UV light tube and the whole unit.
Also the turn over time ie destroying the algae faster than it can reproduce.

11 watt interpret can handle up to 3000G(13500L) of volumn size.
It should be able to handle a pump rate of 500G/h(2270L/h) in 2-2.5hrs

500G/HR x 2 HR = 1000G

2-2.5 hrs is the turn around time for the volumn.

Pls check the following url
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/bizuvs.htm

bregds

[RonWill]

[quote:371a2a667f="shortman"]There are 3 types of UV, UV-A, UV-B and UV-C. The wavelength make the different of all this.
UV A: 320-400 nm
UV B: 280-320 nm
UV C : 200-280 nm
[/quote:371a2a667f]

Hi Shortman,
Thanks for the link. It's an interesting read for me since I'm planning to hook up a 2nd UV to my recirculated tanks.

The UV-C2500 currently in use is a 5w unit, connected after the sump output, and a pending second unit UV-C7000 which uses a 11w bulb. I plan to mount both in series, with some sort of 'by-pass' for quick removal/re-connection for maintenance, yet allowing water to circulate as normal.

There isn't any illustration or diagrams pertaining to this at the link. Would appreciate any suggestions.

Also, for the 3 different wavelength, which would be applicable or most effective against protozoa, fungii and other organisms that might cause an outbreak. TIA for your assistance.

Regards,
Ronnie Lee

[shortman]

Hi Mr Ronnie Lee,

Nice to meet you here.

Sorry that I was not able to provide any detail drawing.

Hook up the UV in series might not be a good ideal. I would suggest that using 2 Y connectors, one to split and feed both UV and another one to joint them back after leaving both UV.

==== UV1 ====
// \\\ === +==== ======+===
\\\\ //
==== UV2 ====

+ is the eheim connector around SGD 18.00

You can remove the whole UV assemble and rejoin the them as and when you like.

The reason is that you do not waste the UV light energy as once it pass through the first UV there isn't much to kill on the second UV.

Sorry for the poor illustration above.
The best illustration or the diagram is with the instruction booklet, I can make a copy for you.

The url link show the type of baterial that the UV energy need to destroy the baterial.
http://www.tipton.org/uv_technical.html#tableI

UV-C should have the right wave length to kill most aquarium harmful baterial including good one.

Hope the above help you.

Bregds

[shortman]

Sorry SIR, after the posting the drawing mess up.

Bregds

[RonWill]

Hi Shortman, thanks for the illustration... even though it didn't turn out quite right!

But I believe this is how you had originally intended...

By doing so, once the UV units are removed from the system, water-circulation will stop, since there's no provision for water to be re-routed.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This is what I've been planning for a while...
SERIES mounting

In normal operation, valve "A"* is closed, while connectors at "B" & "C" is an open path, back to the tank.

Both UVs are mounted in series (a 'kiasu' mentality), thinking that what one 5wUV doesn't kill, the other 11w will.
During maintenance, points "B" & "C" is closed. Valve "A" is open... and water still flow

The 5w UV is presently on 24/7 but intend to reduce the light-on period via a timer. That'll apply to the pending installation 11watter as well. During 'times of war', both UVs will be in service.
*"A" is a fixed ball-valve, not quick-release connector (like Eheim's)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Another illustration...
PARALLEL mounting

This will allow either or both UV units to be removed without disrupting the continuous water-flow.

Going by your diagram and my 2nd pic (when "A" is closed), and if only one UV is on, there will be a bypass of 'un-zapped' water returning to the tank, unless I manually close the valve. Of course this won't be necessary if series mounted.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

BTW, I'm using 1inch PVC plumbing pipes for the manifold. Is the $18 Eheim connector for that or a smaller hose diameter?

Further suggestions most appreciated.

Regards,
Ronnie Lee

[shortman]

Hi Sir Ronnie Lee,

You are very good and can figure up the drawing by yourself.
Yes eheim does have a bigger version of the connector but slight more costly.

We can join both end together as the eheim is a screw on type with buildin regulaters so you can stop the water flow and join both ends together.

I personally prefered the second propose ideal also likes your ideal of using the timer to controll the light-on period. When any of the UV needs servicing we can easily dis-assamble one without affecting the other UV.

Both series and parallel will work. The use of PVC plumbing make it very secure.

Thanks for sharing the ideal.
Bregds

[shortman]

Hi Ronnie,

The Eheim connector I mention is the "Eheim Double Tap-Connectors"

The following url have picture of how it look like.

http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/aca...ridges_21.html

Bregds

[RonWill]

[quote:b3a05d03bc="shortman"]The Eheim connector I mention is the "Eheim Double Tap-Connectors"[/quote:b3a05d03bc]
Shortman, I'm aware of those and know they're not cheap. Was using the Eheim ones previously in my old setups, but was thinking, if there were alternatives, I wouldn't mind trying out other types.

Anyway, I'll be collecting 2 sets (1 set @ $30+) of the largest size, over the weekend and have almost decided to run the 2 UV units in series... it's easier to handle.

Thanks again for the input. Appreciate that.

Keep 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee

[chuck]

Which is a good brand to go for and any idea how much it cost for a UV-C 11W