Reply With QuoteHi,
Just connected the external prob to my HS 300A. It seem like is working.
Will test it tonight and update tomorrow.
Ken
Hi,
So have anyone try?
Does this method work on other hailea chiller?
Ken
Hi,
Just connected the external prob to my HS 300A. It seem like is working.
Will test it tonight and update tomorrow.
Ken
This is a very useful guide. It shows what to buy, how much it cost, which shop to get the items and the method to connect the probe without welding. It got me thinking about trying the method on my resun chiller.
Just waiting for the test results from Ken1971. Many thanks.
Hi,
Yes it is working. I observe the chiller kicking in and it stop when reached the temperature set.
One thing is that it kick in for a longer time. About 2.5 mins for 0.1 of the temperature.
Over all it kick in for about 10 mins to reduce 1 degree.
Also the chiller will stop for a longer duration before kicking in again.
Ken
Originally Posted by ralliart12
Okay, here goes:
1st, I forgot to mention one thing in my previous post, & that is, the shop which I need to modification to the non-probe end of the external temperature probe (as well as made an additional "plug-&-play" cable extender) is Silicon Electronics #03-02 Sim Lim Tower. I also wish to point out it is still open around on Saturday noon.
Moving on to installing the probe onto the chiller. It is extremely fuss-free when I don't have to solder anything. It would have taken me less than 5 minutes, but then I was taking photos.
The first thing to do is to remove the front-facing cover of the chiller; which is secured only by a single screw (in the case of the HS-28A) at the bottom of the casing. There is no need to remove the other screws along the sides of the chiller casing. After opening it up, you will be presented with this:
More importantly, this is a close-up of the existing probe connection I saw in my unit:
Secondly, unhinge/disconnect the cables from one another. To elaborate, if one never handles this form of connection before, note that there is a "small latch" on the female connector which you have to press to enable you to gently wriggle the male end out. Do not just pull both ends from one another.
Thirdly:
(Left to right: unused terminal of the existing temperature probe; to-be-used terminal with the female connector end; male-end of the new, external temperature probe)
Connect the male end of your new external probe to the in-place female end. I wound the unused ol' male end to ensure it doesn't accidentally touch anything else in the chiller. I suppose you can cable-tie it to some other rigid structure in the chiller.
Fourthly,
Figure out how you want to thread the connection beyond your chiller casing & replace your front cover. In my case, I chosed not to thread it through the airfilter vents & instead use the minuscule gap between the LCD panel & its cut-out. & you are done with the modification!
In my case, my chiller will be placed rather far from my tank, so as you can see, instead of connecting the external probe directly to the female connector inside the chiller, I "slipped" in an additional cable extension.
Update: I realise that I do not know what will happen if some itchy hands disconnect this additional connection while the chiller is in operation. So, you may wish to secure the connection with black-tape.
So that's about it. I haven't turn on my own HS-28A yet, so don't hold me responsible if you try this & it explodes. I'm just sharing some photos of what you may see.
Really have to be thankful to the first fellow (whoever he/she is) that identified which cable is connected to the internal temperature probe. If I were to go the soldering route, I may not know which existing connection to severe & solder.
Excellent writeup. Went to SLT but couldnt get the 103AT-11 sensor. In the end, bought another similar probe known as W420P from wintech. Wired up and calibrated on my hilea. Seems to be doing well so far. For those having hilea, you may want to consider this option as my chiller kicks in less frequent now.
Image00001.jpgimg_420d-2.jpg
Just to share, a NTC 10k probe work probably work for our chiller regardless is a resun or Hailea. It better to purchase the plastic probe than a metal one. In case you need another shop than the three floor, can go to B1 - Acez Instruments Pte Ltd, look for Mr. Yeo. I got all my chillers n probe from him previously.
Thanks for the info! Gonna try this method out for my chiller. The black part which comes out isit needed to have another casing?
Hi I bought the 103at-11 today. On the receipt it says "probe (air)" under the product description. Just wondering whether that means I cannot use it in water for the purpose of modifying my chiller.
I had made sure that the tip has the model no. 103at-11 before i bought but now noticed that the alphabets below the model no. was different from the ones posted in this thread (mine says Z H O ). Does that mean mine is to be used for a different purpose?
Anyway just to share, for people looking to buy this from acez instruments at sim lim. ....They claimed they no longer carry such plastic tip probes anymore for aquarium purpose and directed me to a particular shop at level 3 which is selling quite a bit more ex (40) than the prices I saw in the forum. I did not have much time so I just bought it anyway but am now wondering did I buy the air probe instead of a water probe version of 103at-11, if there's such a thing in the 1st place.
Would appreciate if any of the experienced forumers here could advise before I carry on with the modification. Thanks.
Hi everyone... I had the intention to buy a hailea HS-28A chiller to pair with my ehiem Classic 250 but noticed that the flow rate for the filter might not be sufficient especially for my case where i added in a inline CO2 reactor... So before i dump in the money to invest in the chiller, i would like to check with you guys where can i buy the external probe now (which shop)and what model to look out for and also what modification for the probe is required so that i can just plug in directly... Can't help to notice that the thread was from a year ago... The shop or probes and stuff might not be available anymore... Need some advise from someone who recently just bought or did the modification... Thanks alot!
my probe I bought online.
Wires and stuff from SLT, plenty of shops do help you to connect up the stuffs (non solder) if you buy the wires and connectors from them for some small fee.
did mine in april
SLT 3rd level.....there's one shop selling the probe and on the same level there are quite a few shops selling the necessary connectors/wires.....you can either ask them to help you solder it to the probe or just buy the connectors.....after that it's just plug it in as kindly shared previously here in this thread.....
You can try the shop at B1 recommended here as well but when I went they said they no longer sell the probe.....hope this helps.....
Can anyone share where to buy the external probe? Seem like quite easy to DIY.
i have a 3m long external prob to release. pm me
Guys, Ace instruments still selling the NT plastic probe. Best mod ever ! Notice the big difference of compressor kick in timing. It is a must for China chiller mod !
After installing the probe, before my kick in timing is around 1 hour.. Wow, really big difference before like every 10 to 20 min kick in compressor. Long time really help to save electricity bill.
Just Installed this mod. Looking good so far
I never tried without the probe beforehand.
So how you guys check how long it run and stop?
Before installing the probe, compressor kick in like every 10 to 15 min depend on the room temperature too.
After installing the probe, compressor kick in like every 40 to 60 min. I had additional thermometer and calibrate by 0.2~0.5 through my HS28.
Same, before installing the probe, it would kick in 15 mins, kick out 20 mins.
Now with the probe, kick in 20 mins. Kick out 1hr 15mins!
That connector is commonly used in LED light. Any shop sell led should have it or savage it from those discarded led
Temp probe: looks like those digital temp kit at aquarium shop will do?Attachment 49026
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