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You got cycle your tank before adding the livestocks in?
Have a gex Glassterior 600
Canister filter used - Ehiem Eco Pro 300
Filter media used - the one supplied when purchased.
Co2 tank - using with 1 bubble every 2 seconds
Live Stock
20 cardinal tetra
3 golden top
5 cherry
5 blue tiger
2 Yamato
5 sakura
Plants
moss ball
a couple plants planted ( not sure about the name)
Water tank have been running about 1-2 weeks.
Anti-clorine and plant nourishment given.
Subtract for shrimps and bacteria added with PLanta Soil.
Co2-check available and level has been within safe green zone.
Now the problem is...
my shrimps keep dying out of the sudden.
Every day i turn on the lights , something is dead.
highest record was 8 dead.
Was advised by LFS that maybe pump not good enough so upgraded to canister but still dying.
Temperature has always been within 22-25degrees.
Help needed or advise from any bros here?
sad to see little lives die in my hands every single day...
You got cycle your tank before adding the livestocks in?
ya. I think is the cycle of your tank is not long enough. I cycled my tank for about 1 and a half month before adding in shimps. Even so, some of them dies in the first week.
hmm cycle my tank for 2 weeks or so....
so bascially is cycling of the tank issue?
hmm tap water or distilled water is more recommended? even if i am using anti-chlorine crystals
yep! Very much on the cycling of tank issue. I would advise you to use tap water then add in your anti-chlorine crystals. Try to take out your livestocks first. Let the tank run for about 1 more month or so. Then slowly add in fishes. Shrimps will have to come in at a later part. Reason being is to ensure that the water parameter is stable. Cause shrimps is rather sensitive to water changes.
so basically daily water top up. use tap water too ?
i do not have another tank. so i think i probably just have to cross my fingers and pray they dont die until the water stables down?
A picture will be good. What brand of fertilizer you using? How many BPS on the C02?
There's also a possibility that your tetras are snacking on the shrimps if there isn't enough hiding places for the shrimps.
Advice from boss Felix
yep! But topping up you need to use the dripping way.
so is it advisable to just keep a purely shrimp tank with just a couple OTOs?
bps is 1 bubble per 3 secs.
jay91 - what do YOU mean by dripping way?/
Last edited by felix_fx2; 12th Feb 2013 at 12:22. Reason: sms lingo
Diazman is quite right. Tetras do indeed post a threat to the shrimps. In fact shrimp tank usually don't keep other fishes. Otto is ok I will say. But still there is a risk if there are shrimplets in the tank. If you have a picture of your tank setup will be great. As for the Co2, you could increase it to 2 bps. Depending on how heavily the tank is planted and what kind of plants. As for dripping method, we link 1 tube from the container that we store for topping up or WC, then slowly let the water flow into the main tank. In that way, the shrimps will not be experiencing a sudden change of water parameter. If so they will go
Into shock or stress, that's where they tend to pass on.
i cycle my tank for 2 days, and i introduced my tetra in, they are doing kind fine i can say.. =) cheers
now i am waiting for my plant to grow before i introduced my shrimp in.
as mentioned in the photos.. any bro can help see whats wrong??
i tried putting the outflow under water level.. but prawns and fishes seems stressed.. tried putting above water level and it seems like alot of little bubbles appearing at the sides.
now even my fishes are getting dead...
Lots of bubbles on the surface probably means there's a lot of nitrogenous waste in your water. You could do a 20% water change with distilled water as distilled water is almost like pure water. I usually just pour in the distilled water and don't go by drip method so that's my disclaimer.
You may also want to add in those bacteria products to improve the tank cycling and sponge filters as well to help since your water looks a bit cloudy (probably due to bacteria bloom for this case).
Think you should also stop feeding for a while after your water change and observe how things work out.
I agree with the others... your new tank is currently undergoing the cycling process and you are doing what is termed as a "fish-in" cycle (and you have also fully stocked your tank from the start, not in smaller incremental stages), which means your fish and shrimp are being subjected to all the high ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes that occur during the cycling process... the weaker ones will die one by one, the stronger ones may survive but their health will be affected would tend to become more susceptible to disease and bacteria infection.
Since you don't have another established tank to house them in, then you'll need to do water changes everyday to lower the toxic levels in the water (more small regular changes better than one large change), this may slow down the cycling process (so it'll take abit longer to finish cycling), but at least it'll help increase the survival rate of the fish and shrimp for the moment.
You should get a freshwater test kit, so that you can test the pH,ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels... without such kits (especially with new tanks), you will not know what is happening.
What i will do is STOP Co2, water change 50%, add in sponge filters and pump in oxygen.
Next day water change 20% and wash sponge with tap water.
Keep monitor and repeat untill water started to clear, wash sponge with tank or age water.
i'm using a canister filter.. would it be sufficient compared to sponge filters?
btw sorry for being noob,
i was taught by the LFS guy at seaview.
use a pinch of salt and some chlorine jumpstart thingy.. then he told me can put everything within 12 hours -.-
kena con big time...
Im a newbie too, so i was just wondering, why would YOU initially wash the sponge with tap water? Wouldn't the chlorine kill the BB?Originally Posted by ahkel
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Last edited by felix_fx2; 12th Feb 2013 at 12:24. Reason: sms lingo
The advantage of a canister filter is usually their larger filter volume, ability to use a combination of filter media and ability to direct flow of current in the water via a spray bar or outlet pipe.. and it looks better 'cos it can be hidden away under the tank.
Sponge filters can also be effective too, depending on the type of fauna you keep (ie. betta fish cannot take too much current, so sponge filter is more suitable), and many shrimp breeders also like to use sponge filters 'cos those are much safer for shrimplets... the main disadvantages is you have the sponge sunken in the water (some people don't like the look) and it doesn't create as much flow.
So the choice really just depends on your tank requirements.
I also kena that kind of advice when i first started out too (end up all my fish and shrimps got steadily wiped out within a month)... so far until now, i've not found a LFS staff who actually advise buyers on how to properly cycle a tank and how long to cycle it, most of them are just more keen to make quick sales rather than to spend time educating buyers.
Though i can see why... imagine if every LFS staff tell people to only buy the tank and accessories, but don't buy fish, tell them must do fishless cycle for 1-2 months and stare at an empty tank, then later come back every week to buy a few fish at a time to add in stages, confirm most new buyers hear already think so hassle and give up before even starting.
Yeah, it's better to wash the sponge with tank water (or at least de-chlorinated water), or else the good bacteria will get reduced and then need more time to re-populate again.
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