Feedback for NA type external CO2 reactor

[hk75]

Any feedback for the NA type ext co2 reactor and Ista surface skimmer? Was thinking to get one set.

[BFG]

Been using the NA diy external reactor since the start of this hobby.

[Aquaculture]

Been using it for ages.... no complains. I've added ceramic rings in the reactor, below the fan. 1 is to encourage BB and the other to give CO2 more time to be desolved/absorbed into the water before re-introducing into the tank. This way, I can almost guarantee 100% CO2 non-wastage of CO2.

If I didn't place the ceramic rings in, I could see little bubbles being blown into the tank. With this minor addition, I see major improvement in plant growth.

Downside is, you'll occassionally (about 2 to 3 months) need to clean the reactor as BB may clog and slow down the outflow.

[vinz]

I used that for my big tank until I closed the tank. It works well. But note the following tips.

1. Change the black elbow inside to a green curve. (You may have to shorten the green hose a little.) Reasons:
(a) The 90 degree bend slows the water. It's like running down a corridor. When you reach the end you will crash into the wall (if you can't stop like the water) before turning down a perpendicular corridor. If you run on a running track, you turn gradually and is ultimately faster.
(b) The holes on the black elbow are smaller. That slows down the water flow as well.

2. When newly bought, the green hose inside is quite secure. Over time and dismantling for washing, the hose becomes loose. If, during re-assembly, the hose is pushed in too far, it blocks the water way. Two solutions: (a) always check after re-assembly, (b) cut that end of the hose diagonally, and always place it such that it does not block the water flow.

3. When placed the right way up (to work as a reactor, i.e. transparent side up), it functions as a natural air-lock. You will not be able to prime your filter if the reactor is completely empty. You need to turn it upside down, complete the priming, then turn it back around.

[hk75]

Thanks for all advise. Am still thinking to get whether the mix max or the NA type.

thanks

I used that for my big tank until I closed the tank. It works well. But note the following tips.

1. Change the black elbow inside to a green curve. (You may have to shorten the green hose a little.) Reasons:
(a) The 90 degree bend slows the water. It's like running down a corridor. When you reach the end you will crash into the wall (if you can't stop like the water) before turning down a perpendicular corridor. If you run on a running track, you turn gradually and is ultimately faster.
(b) The holes on the black elbow are smaller. That slows down the water flow as well.

2. When newly bought, the green hose inside is quite secure. Over time and dismantling for washing, the hose becomes loose. If, during re-assembly, the hose is pushed in too far, it blocks the water way. Two solutions: (a) always check after re-assembly, (b) cut that end of the hose diagonally, and always place it such that it does not block the water flow.

3. When placed the right way up (to work as a reactor, i.e. transparent side up), it functions as a natural air-lock. You will not be able to prime your filter if the reactor is completely empty. You need to turn it upside down, complete the priming, then turn it back around.

[illumnae]

The NA one looks alot more solid, but i'm personally using the Ista mix max L size with no complaints.

[hk75]

by the way, the green curve u mentioned is those 'U' shape where we connect the canister hose right?

I used that for my big tank until I closed the tank. It works well. But note the following tips.

1. Change the black elbow inside to a green curve. (You may have to shorten the green hose a little.) Reasons:
(a) The 90 degree bend slows the water. It's like running down a corridor. When you reach the end you will crash into the wall (if you can't stop like the water) before turning down a perpendicular corridor. If you run on a running track, you turn gradually and is ultimately faster.
(b) The holes on the black elbow are smaller. That slows down the water flow as well.

2. When newly bought, the green hose inside is quite secure. Over time and dismantling for washing, the hose becomes loose. If, during re-assembly, the hose is pushed in too far, it blocks the water way. Two solutions: (a) always check after re-assembly, (b) cut that end of the hose diagonally, and always place it such that it does not block the water flow.

3. When placed the right way up (to work as a reactor, i.e. transparent side up), it functions as a natural air-lock. You will not be able to prime your filter if the reactor is completely empty. You need to turn it upside down, complete the priming, then turn it back around.

[hk75]

Thanks, was told ista mix max can be used internal and external too. Am still looking around.

The NA one looks alot more solid, but i'm personally using the Ista mix max L size with no complaints.

[AnA]

Hi vinz, great tips for improving the reactor.

BTW, may I know what is the hose size to fit to this NA's reactor? 16/22mm or 12/16mm?

Does the reactor really slow down the overall flow of the water? Could it be the inlet and outlet noozle is too small?

Notice one similar reactor from Jaqno and heard from my friend it does not seem to slow down the flow rate of the water. The noozle size is 12/16mm.

I am thinking of getting a external reactor like those from NA or Jaqno. But afraid that the water flow rate will be affected. Furthermore, the hose I am using is 16/22mm and do not like to downsize to 12/16mm thus never want to consider Jaqno. Will check with NA if his could fit 16/22mm hose. Thanks.

I used that for my big tank until I closed the tank. It works well. But note the following tips.

1. Change the black elbow inside to a green curve. (You may have to shorten the green hose a little.) Reasons:
(a) The 90 degree bend slows the water. It's like running down a corridor. When you reach the end you will crash into the wall (if you can't stop like the water) before turning down a perpendicular corridor. If you run on a running track, you turn gradually and is ultimately faster.
(b) The holes on the black elbow are smaller. That slows down the water flow as well.

2. When newly bought, the green hose inside is quite secure. Over time and dismantling for washing, the hose becomes loose. If, during re-assembly, the hose is pushed in too far, it blocks the water way. Two solutions: (a) always check after re-assembly, (b) cut that end of the hose diagonally, and always place it such that it does not block the water flow.

3. When placed the right way up (to work as a reactor, i.e. transparent side up), it functions as a natural air-lock. You will not be able to prime your filter if the reactor is completely empty. You need to turn it upside down, complete the priming, then turn it back around.

[o2bubble]

This is a good article on it: http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plant.../msg00236.html

A good external reactor: http://www.aqua-medic.com/reactor_500.shtml

[o2bubble]

Very nice DIY reactor: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...1&d=1099597504

[o2bubble]

Seem like internal reactor saves Co2: http://aquastuff.org/2007/07/08/a-co...orks/#more-103

I'm using Dennerle Cyclo as well and very efficient instead. 10 mins after my lights on, my plants starts to bubble already

However, external is good for saving space in the tank.

[AnA]

Thanks o2bubble for your useful links. Appreciated.