is this a good set up for my guppy tank?
So far 2 guppies have died when they're less than a week with me.
Could there be something wrong with the water? I've already conditioned it by adding stabiliser.
Last edited by cyruslaguna; 29th Sep 2009 at 00:54.
first put a sponge on the inlet, that will help alot down the road.
They do need heaters and if you are going to run it that low, get a intank filter, the new fluvals are nice.
I think the water is too cold for them, what is all on that tank? I see the filter on the right, what is on the left? Co2?
Hi bro,
If you introduce the plants directly into the tanks without washing them clean, then you will face this problem.
to the left is another tank; those attached to the right are hanging filter and lamp.
How should plants be washed before introducing to tank? should they be soaked in overnight water?
What should water temperature for guppies be? I have a big heater stick and wondering if I can use that.
Hi,Originally Posted by cyruslaguna
Guppies live well in our local climate. Most hobbyists, including breeders, do not use heaters in their tanks at all.
Perhaps you can do a few checks:
1. Health / Source of fish. Guppies are bred in mass volume in farms. Sometimes there are tell-tale signs of stress, sickness, while they are in the stock tanks, or shops' tanks. Other signs include having dead fish in cloudy water, broken tails, guppies sinking at the bottom.
2. Local farms use aquarium salt in the guppies' tanks since they were fries, hence these little ones prefer to have a little salt in their environment. Salt helps to prevent common disease such as white spots.
3. Conditioning of the fish. Did you perform a water conditioning when the fish were brought home? Balancing the temperature, ph.. etc to prevent adding further stress.
4. The water conditioner which you mentioned, was it both anti-chloramine and anti-chlorine too? Our tap water is highly alkaline, due the chloramine content.
5. Plants. Sometimes the aquatic plants that we buy would cause an upset in the water conditions, but they may not always be the culprit. Watch for rotting plants, which will foul the water easily.
6. Water flow. Guppies do not prefer fast flowing water, hence most of the hobbyists will just use a common bio-sponge filter. The water current is more gentle.
7. A thin sand substrate will help for fish waste to settle, allowing beneficial bacteria (which colonize in the substrate) to convert them into harmless nitrate for your plants.
Happy fish keeping!
Thio
thanks for your reply Thio.
I have a money plant in the guppy's tank, will that pose a threat to water condition?
How often should I test water pH?
The female guppies were very active when I bought them, but died off in less than a week; all died from Swim Bladder Inflammation. Only the male is alive.
What could be the cause of it?
There are no past incidents of money plant fouling the water, but if it was harvested from an unknown source, the pesticides, sprayed on fertilizers, etc may post a problem.
You can test for water pH when you have introduced something new, or when there is a prolonged period of no water change, else there should not be a major cause for pH fluctuations.
Fish die of many reasons. Sometimes the fish were sick in the first place. Did you detect an infection? It seems that you have found the cause, in this case to be Swim Bladder problem, which you may need to apply medication for internal problems.
Cheers
Thio
From the picture that you have posted, i guess you are setting up a guppy community tank with all kinds of guppies (males and females) with plants. Some guppy breeders like myself have pure guppy breeding tank (bare tank with sponge filter) and community tanks (tank with substrate, plants, guppies, cories). If you intend to have low demanding plants in the tank, i suggest introducing at least a sand substrate to root them in. The plants in the picture above are not rooted, they still sit in the tiny bucket direct from lfs. In my opinion, they would not last long. Having a substrate helps beneficial bacteria to build up as well and its good for the long term well being of the fishes. U can either run an internal filter or hof. Get the bigger ones. Sponge filter is not strong enough for a big community tank.
Get an air pump!
Also, put in some salt and add some microorganism to break down the nitrate.
Guppies are easy to take care.
Live plants and 24 hour oxygen are not a good combination.
thanks for your feedback Thio.
Yes I do intend to use this tank solely for guppy breeding; will also have a separate tank for fries when they're born.
By far, the male is ok; eating well and swimming around actively; so I suspected that the previous females I bought were unhealthy (bought from Polyart and Clementi Florist at Blk 328 Clementi).
Any tips on selecting good guppies from the stock tank, other than observing their behaviour that should be actively swimming and no bodily defects / disease tell-tale signs?
I've added salt to the water already; should I change all the water in the tank with treated one for good, before introducing more guppies in?
How should plants be cleaned? I'm soaking them in tap water after giving them a rinse and removing the "sinker" which binds them together at the roots with sponge wrapped around. Learnt from friends that this "sinker" should be removed as they're very dirty, that could be the cause of guppies' death.
As a retailer ourselves, we cannot control the state of health of the fish from our supplier, but we can reject any lot that we feel is unhealthy.
On a fairer note, the retailers might have ordered from the same supplier for that specific batch of female guppies.
Typically, the water in the stock tank is clear, the guppies are not seen hovering at the surface constantly for air. There is a difference in requirement between selecting a healthy fish vs a show quality guppy. Hence, your query on selecting a good guppy is very general
Choosing a healthy fish is easy, we look at the water quality, the way the fish swim (it should be natural and not wobbling or shaking as it swims).
Total water change is very subjective, since there are no more deaths, we feel partial water change is sufficient. As most of us have suggested, lay a thin layer of substrate, while adding beneficial bacteria will help to maintain the water quality. Aquarium salt is recommended as table salt contains iodine, which is meant for human consumption, but some hobbyists use table salt in their tanks too.
Rinsing the aquatic plants under the running water, while running the fingers over the leaves is a good practice, to remove any toxins and snail eggs. Watch out for gel like substances, if you do not wish to have a snail infested tank later
Please remove all lead and the wool that is wrapped at the base of the plants. They are not meant to be in the tank. Be careful in selecting plants that need special requirements, such as high light, CO2 and nutrients.
Happy keeping!
Cheers
Thio
thanks Thio for the tips!
Just more concerned about the death toll of female guppies in my tank before introducing more; they all died from Fin Bladder Inflammation, ie they last a couple of days and the latest pair of females died within 2 days. Those females that had died were most pregnant. Do pregnant guppies require special attention in water quality?
Could this be due to water quality / poor quality of the fish?
I noticed certain shops have vast difference in pricing of fish; some shops sell ordinary guppies for $2 a fish, yet colour neither very amazing nor are they of special breed, so I was wondering if it is overpriced.
My mum suggested I get those feeder guppies (sometimes $1.50 a pack with many fish); yet I learnt from a friend that they usually do not last and some may be ill. The colours in such packs I came across are more unique. Is this true about the quality and their lifespan?
Would my method of doing be a good choice by giving them a final rinse by also running fingers along the leaves, after 3 days of soaking in tap water?
Is it a good idea to have a snail in a guppy tank to help clean up the walls?
Also, are Holland Rams a good community partner with guppies?
Last edited by cyruslaguna; 25th Sep 2009 at 09:47. Reason: .
Prices of fish vary, due to the source as well as the amount of effort that the resellers placed to maintain the livestock, hence the level of pricing is a very subjected view.
We have mentioned already, that the water quality takes a priority, whether it is for fries, pregnant or new fish.
Feeder fish typically do not last long, but it is up to your choice to separate the interesting ones from a bag of them. What would you do with those that are rejected due to their colours that fail to interest you?
Soaking the plants in water is a good practice, but if you leave them in a pail for 3 days, without light, the plants will suffer, however, there are hardy plants that can last longer. Snails, in a controlled population, helps to controlled algae growth, but they are not an alternative to proper water care.
Rams, being cichlids, are territorial in nature. We would not mix them with guppies since you are trying to breed guppies in your tank.
However, we have seen holland rams swimming amongst smaller fish in a community tank.
Best of luck in your breeding program
Thio
For breeding, just have a bare tank, sponge filter, regular water change, siphon out uneaten food will do. No need plants or substrate.
U can always try with the cheaper lfs guppies on breeding and rearing the fries first before you go with the more expensive strains. TYyically for breeding, you will need more than 1 tank and this is only for 1 strain. A factor you will have to consider.
The last male survivor guppy I bought from Polyart has died this morning and was seen floating! What could be wrong?
That guppy was perfectly fine last night...could it be due to the sudden introduction of 4 more guppies into the tank, changing the properties of the water?
I noticed that the remaining guppies have a tendency to be swimming up and down to the side of my tank where another tetra tank is, but occasionally will swim to other parts of the tank. What could be the cause of it?
Will this be a good substrate for my guppy tank?
Is the pH level ok for the guppies? I've attached the pH test pics for viewing. Learnt from this site that pH should be between 6.8 and 7.6:
http://www.guppies.com/index.php?opt...d=69&Itemid=56
Also, how should I get rid of ammonia in water that may have killed the previous guppies, and what should be the level for ammonia in aquarium water read?
Last edited by cyruslaguna; 14th Oct 2009 at 20:31.
Guppies are usually hardy and very suitable for beginners so having so many dead guppies is shocking.
When you purchased new guppies, did you put the bag in the water to condition them first before introduction? Simply pouring the new guppies into the tank can cause unnecessary shock, leading to high mortality rates.
I honestly feel that guppies wouldn't die so easily, especially in a new clear start-up like yours. Also, did you use anti-clorine to treat the water? It is advisable to do so.
Take it slow with your tank and guppies. Be patient and they will survive, I assure you.
Cheers,
Randy
hi skyblader
thanks for your reply.
I just got 4 females and put them into a already conditioned, dechlorinated water with friendly bacteria.
Yes they were also floated for about 1/2 hour before adding a quarter cup of tank water.
What other pointers do I need to take note?
Just keep us updated, I guess. Since the tank (and the fish's environment) is already well-taken care of, the fish will take care of themselves. Keep them well-fed but not over-fed. A small tank gets dirty very fast. So don't overfeed.
I feed my pair of guppies with bloodworms (about, since the bloodworms are shared with the other fish in my community tank. The adult pair also eats pellets. My guppy fries feed on crushed pellets.
Since you've 4 females, there's also a chance that one may already be 'pre-hit' and pregnant
Thanks for your replyJust keep us updated, I guess. Since the tank (and the fish's environment) is already well-taken care of, the fish will take care of themselves. Keep them well-fed but not over-fed. A small tank gets dirty very fast. So don't overfeed.
I feed my pair of guppies with bloodworms (about
Since you've 4 females, there's also a chance that one may already be 'pre-hit' and pregnant
Main tank has 2M 2F guppies and 3Fs in aux tank. The ammonia level is a about 2.0 in main tank (lowering by the day with 50% water change daily), aux tank is at ammonia level of 0.
Should I wait till ammonia level in main tank drops to 0 first, before bringing the 3 over from aux tank? How many can I move over at 1 go?
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