Reply With QuoteOh nooooooooo what could be the problem... I added anti chlorine and bacteria starter..
Btw here's a survivor shrimp!!!
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Xkimi is right. Dont worry just let the water settle for another day or 2 then test the water and see which parameter needs adjusting. Ghost shrimp where just the first indicator that something is wrong with your water parameters.
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Oh nooooooooo what could be the problem... I added anti chlorine and bacteria starter..
Btw here's a survivor shrimp!!!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444877432.327444.jpg
If you need test kits theres a guy selling them http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...d.php?t=122867
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I suggest you leave the dead to rot in the tank for cycling. Hope you can let your tank to cycle for 3-4 weeks before adding anymore fishes or shrimps.Originally Posted by Ryan Peh
I scooped everything out except the survivor shrimp... Probably let that live for as long as it can!
Well, i doubt the survivors will live. Sorry to drown your hopes but your tank isnt cycled yet. Every parameters are so unstable at the moment.
Yup I know HAHA so I'm just gonna leave its body to rot?
Since you are not using any soil and only gravel, you can actually just throw in one or two pieces of market prawns and let it rot, instead of putting in fish. Idea is the same. The rotting will release ammonia and feed the multiplying bacteria.
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But that seems disgusting.. How long will it take the market prawn to decompose completely?
Haha but if you think about it, it's more humane.
You do not have to leave the prawn in there for too long. It take quite some time for the prawn to decompose actually (a few weeks...). But I guess for now, you will not have to do the fish less cycling. You still have some corys in there right? They should be sufficient.
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Yup! My 6 corys seem fine!
Are they enough to cycle a 175 gallon tank?? (Including the sump)
Test water parameters first and see if there is any ammonia spike.
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His corys bioload is too low. He would require alot of corys for amount of bioload to cycle a 4 ft tank.
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Hmmm then what other middle or top level fishes can I add apart from danios and Molly?
I don't really intend to keep danios and Molly so I don't want to have to remove them after I cycled my tank!
For a 175 gallon tank, that amount of water volume will indeed take alot of ammonia to even register as tracable amounts due to the large water volume. Imagine the difference between a standard 2ft tank with only 15 gallons vs your 175 gallon tank.
So with just a small group of small fishes and shrimps, that bio-load is low enough that you are probably not going to see much movements in the ammonia levels at this stage (especially since you are also only using inert gravel too).
The large water volume should easily dilute the comparatively smaller ratio of ammonia currently produced. As the saying goes, larger water volumes encounter much less fluctuations and can maintain much more stable parameters.
Since you are already practicing the traditional "fish-in" cycling method, then you could simply start adding in fishes you actually want to keep, but in small controlled numbers at a time (every week just 5-10 small fishes). That will give the beneficial bacteria in the tank sufficient time to slowly grow their population and handle the increasing bio-load.
The key is not to suddenly add alot of fishes at one go, like bulk buying 300 tetras and dumping them in the tank (which many large tank keepers are always tempted to do), that will almost always overload the tank cycle and result in a crash.
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 15th Oct 2015 at 15:21.
Hmmm so you're saying.. Technically I can just add whatever fishes I wanna keep as long as I add them a little at a time?
Even fragile fishes like baby angelfish or Cardinal tetras?
Check the PH of your water. Since you are using inert substrate and rocks, chances are your PH should be 7 and above which may not be suitable for angelfish. If it's high Ph and hardwater and with your tank size, you can probably consider some african cichlids.
And if your PH is indeed on the high side, it also mean that the ammonia in the water is more potent as compared to lower PH of say 5-6. Got to monitor the ammonia level closely.
Hmmmm but I added quite a lot of driftwood hoping to lower the ph as well...
I'm just making assumption, best do a PH test before choosing the fishes for your tank, it may not be a major concern for some species but its still the best to provide as close to their natural parameter as possible.
Alright! Thank you very much!!
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