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I see, thank you very much! I'm looking to start an iwagumi using monte carlos and normal hair grass but maybe now I might consider monte Carlos and eleocharis mini instead!!
I bought mine from C328 for around $18+ for the 300ml bottle (if i remember correctly), not sure if they still sell it though... but you can also get it from LFS like Fishy Business too.Originally Posted by Ryan Peh
Based on my experience, monte carlo has a faster growth rate but you have to trim it regularly to avoid the bottoms getting shaded and browning, which requires some extra work to maintain.... eleocharis sp. mini takes abit more time to grow out but i never needed to trim it, so less maintenance required.
I see, thank you very much! I'm looking to start an iwagumi using monte carlos and normal hair grass but maybe now I might consider monte Carlos and eleocharis mini instead!!
Hey UA, where can I find the eleocharis mini and how much does it cost?
I haven't been seeing those plants anywhere recently!
The Eleocharis sp. mini which i bought were the Tropica 1-2-Grow tissue-cultured version (costs around S$14 a cup), you can usually find it at LFS that stock Tropica products like C328... or just head to Fishy Business and get it as they are the distributors for those products.
Recently there have been other brands of tissue-cultured plants like Hortilab which also offer Eleocharis sp. mini too, those you can get from Aquatic Avenue.
Ooooo $14 is pretty expensive. Btw would it be possible to grow it using just excel?
Yeah, the Tropica 1-2-Grow cup plants do cost more than normal LFS plants... but the advantage is that they are tissue-cultured, hence guaranteed algae-free and pest-free. The plants are also healthier and more densely packed into the cups so you'll actually get more new plant volume to start with.
Its also possible to get Eleocharis sp. mini from other hobbyists who are already growing them in their own tanks (a while back i sold a few batches of them when i de-commed the setup) and some LFS may also sell harvested ones too, those will be cheaper but not guaranteed algae-free and pest-free, so you'll have to do your own quarantine/treatments procedure before usage.
Like with most plants, Eleocharis sp. mini can be grown with just Excel dosing too, but it'll still not be as fast as with actual Co2 injection (though at least it'll be abit faster than without any carbon supplements). Its just a matter of waiting abit longer for it to grow out.
Hmmm alright! I'll try to look out for people who're selling them to see if I can get it cheaper!
Thanks once again!Looking forward to more of your setup journal entries!
Hey UA, another question! Do you use a co2 indicator for your tanks?
If i dont want to use a co2 indicator, how do i know how much co2 i should be adding?
Yes, i use drop checkers for all my tanks running Co2 injection... i use external hang-on drop checkers (they hook over the glass and sits outside of the tank), easier to view and will not get covered by algae.
They look like this:
Photo from Google Images.
Well, the other alternative is to measure the KH and PH, then check the KH/PH relationship table, like in this example:
Table from Google Images.
But note that this is only applicable if your tank water is not buffered by any other things.... if you use active soil substrates like ADA Amazonia Aquasoil, it already buffers the pH and KH so the values on the table will not be viable anymore.
In addition, you have to keep testing the pH throughout the day to monitor the changes (which can be a hassle), or install a pH probe and meter in the tank to monitor it.
Drop checkers are still the easiest way to get a gauge on the Co2 levels (thats why most people use them), the indicator solution in the drop checker are based on known pH 7.0 and KH 4.0 values and its isolated away from the tank water, so it maintains a stable benchmark for generating reliable results.
That's troublesome... Alright then I'll just get a drop checker
So you just ensure your checker constantly shows green is enough right?
Yes, the objective is to tune your Co2 injection so that the drop checker shows a consistent lime green color during the active photo-period (when the lights are off its okay to be blue, since plants wouldn't be using Co2 at night anyways).
Do make sure to mix the Co2 indicator solution with 4dKH reference solution if required (do not use aquarium water), or just get pre-mixed Co2 indicator solution which can be used straight away without mixing.
Btw how often do you have to top up the solution into the checker?
Depends on how fast the indicator solution evaporates, just have to monitor and top up whenever necessary. So far, i've not needed to do any top ups for up to 6 months at a stretch.
Hi UA, did you use any of the additive like ADA Penac P or Penac W... during the setup or only ADA Amazonia Powder Soil?
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For this setup, i didn't use any other base additives, just ADA Amazonia powder soil on its own.
Thanks for your prompt reply. I am now at planning stage and try to gather equipment and tools. Those additive is quite expensive.I look at your wonderful tank and believe ADA soil should be good enough.
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BTW, I would like to ask how many litters of Seachem Matrix that you use as filter media for your system?
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Tropica premium fertilizer doesn't seems to indicate that it includes potassium. Do we have to supplement K to it ?
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If i remember correctly, i used around 3L of Seachem Matrix to fill my Eheim Ecco Pro 300 canister filter (i opted not to use any of the original eheim media that came with the package, only used the pre-filter sponge and fine white filter wool pad).
The Tropica website doesn't indicate it, but the Tropica Premium fertilizer does contain a range of nutrients including Potassium (K) and trace/micro nutrients... just no Nitrogen (N) or Phosphorous (P).
So its not necessary to dose extra potassium when you use that fertilizer, unless you find that the plants need more of it for better growth.
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