So can I say by getting a 2224 should be rather safe for a 3ft shrimp tank?
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Classic
Ecco
Pro
Pro2
Pro3
You could look at those canister filter models that run up to 1,000 l/ph, just need to adjust the flow lower if necessary to accommodate its use in a 2ft tank. You could also consider even higher flow rate canister filters, but the flow rate might end up too high that it becomes difficult to adjust it low enough.
An alternative to using just one over-sized filter, is to just get a canister filter with moderate flow rate to match your 2ft tank, then when you eventually get a 3ft tank, get a 2nd canister filter, so you'll have 2 filters working on one tank. With the ability to position 2 filter outlets at separate sections of the tank, that dual configuration can actually help in creating more efficient water circulation with less dead spots.
So can I say by getting a 2224 should be rather safe for a 3ft shrimp tank?
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Think I may go for a 2028 instead.
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Is the Eheim Pickup 2012 good enough for a tank that is 90cm x 30cm x 45cm? Thinking of a alternative if I cannot get Pro Ecco 300.....
Alternately, can also consider Atman DF1000, brand new $88 from N.A. Cheap & good if you are not brand sensitive ^_^
I just saw the Eheim Pickup 200 on a website from England and I thought I might ask to see how it compares to Pro Ecco 300.
Last edited by RenesisTurbo; 9th Oct 2014 at 16:58.
Both are different filter systems, the Pickup is an internal filter while the Ecco Pro is an external canister filter.
Although the Pickup 200 can be used in a tank, it takes up space inside the tank (along with heat transfer from the submerged motor) and its filter volume is very small, like only 470ml of filter media... on the other hand, a Ecco Pro 300 sits outside the tank and its filter volume is much larger, it can hold 3+ liters of filter media, and you can position its intake and output pipes separately to create more efficient circulation.
So if possible, get an external canister filter, it would provide better filtration for the tank.
Ok, Ecco Pro 300 it shall be then for it's 8 watt energy consumption...Going to order 300, tank and cabinet from Seaview this Sat...
One last comparison....Classic 350 vs Ecco Pro 300?
I did that exact same comparison when i was choosing between the eheim canister filters too.
Here were some comparison figures that i can remember:
Model = Ecco Pro 300 vs Classic 350
Flow Rate = 750 l/ph vs 650 l/ph
Filter Media Volume = 3.1L vs 4L
Power Consumption = 8W vs 15W
Priming = Handle Prime vs Manual Prime
Inbuilt Double Taps = Yes vs No (have to buy double taps separately)
Retail Price = S$220+ vs S$170+
In summary, the Ecco Pro 300 has higher flow rate, uses less power and comes with priming system and inbuilt taps, but its has less filter media volume and costs more compared to the Classic 350 (though you also have to factor in buying the double taps separately)... so i guess it just depends on which features you prefer.![]()
Last edited by Urban Aquaria; 9th Oct 2014 at 18:50.
In planted tank, the main filter media is the plants itself, whereby the filter is ultimately for flow distribution.
Seaview just delivered the fish tank and other stuff that I ordered from them on Sunday along my Pro Ecco 300.Sand and driftwood had been washed last night and going to work on Ecco Pro 300 when I get home tonight.
I understand for 300, there are 3 compartments comprising of the filter media and the black roundish stuff.So I just have to wash up the black, blue and white sponges along with the filter media and can prime from there after installing the taps and inlet, outlet pipes? How do I do the occasional maintenance? What do I have to wash?
Sorry for double post...Can we use normal ceramic rings, small charcoal carbon bags and blue, white sponges from the LFS instead of using the ones from Eheim for Ecco Pro 300?
The black sponge pad is activated carbon, that is only recommended to be used for 2 weeks (thereafter it loses its efficiency), then removed. Most planted tank owners don't use it as it can absorb some of the fertilizers and nutrients that would otherwise be required by the plants to grow.
When you do filter maintenance (best at the same time as water change, keep the old tank water in a bucket), just disconnect everything, open the casing, rinse the blue pre-filter sponge and bio-media compartments in the bucket of old tank water to dislodge debris and dirt.
The white sponge should be rinsed in the old tank water too, but if you see it already turn dark brown or black, then its time to change to a new white sponge (this is the only item in the filter that needs to be replaced regularly).
If necessary, open the impeller housing and use a brush to scrub the various individual parts clean of accumulated dirt, then put back together.
Use a long flexible pipe brush to pull though and scrub the hoses and pipes.
Assemble back everything, prime it, and resume filter operation.![]()
Is it easy to open up the impeller housing? I had not opened my filter yet.....So I can just buy any white sponge from the LFS, cut into shape and put inside instead of using original Eheim asessories? Can I use ceramic rings or black carbon charcoal small bags instead of original Eheim media?
Its quite easy, just pinch the side catches on the impeller housing and pull it open... the steps are detailed in the eheim filter manual.
It'll be good to practice opening it and taking out the parts and then re-assembling it back to get familiar with how it works.
Yes, you could use different aftermarket bio-media, chemical-media and sponges in the canister filter too... can mix and match to your requirements.
Just have to make sure that the aftermarket sponges fit the canister filter properly (ie. not restrict flow or allow water to bypass them).
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