Eheim Canister Filter Comparison

[Urban Aquaria]

Purigen packs should ideally be placed at the last layer after the white filter wool, so your placement is correct.

You should reduce the rest of the filter media so that it can create sufficient space for the purigen pack. The purigen pack should not be squashed.

For best performance, the granules in the pack should be able to move around freely... otherwise if its compacted, the water will flow around it and there will be less contact with the granules (and hence less effectiveness).

You can check the efficiency by looking at the pack after a few weeks of usage, all the granules should be a uniform brown color. If you see some parts brown but other parts lighter color or still beige, then it means water is not flowing freely though the whole pack.

In your case, for the filter grate, you could just trim off the plastic "fat leg" and sand it smooth, so that it doesn't press onto the purigen pack.

[mercur1al]

Purigen packs should ideally be placed at the last layer after the white filter wool, so your placement is correct.

You should reduce the rest of the filter media so that it can create sufficient space for the purigen pack. The purigen pack should not be squashed.

For best performance, the granules in the pack should be able to move around freely... otherwise if its compacted, the water will flow around it and there will be less contact with the granules (and hence less effectiveness).

You can check the efficiency by looking at the pack after a few weeks of usage, all the granules should be a uniform brown color. If you see some parts brown but other parts lighter color or still beige, then it means water is not flowing freely though the whole pack.

In your case, for the filter grate, you could just trim off the plastic "fat leg" and sand it smooth, so that it doesn't press onto the purigen pack.

Yup for my previous canister, i followed your suggestion of placing Purigen above the white filter wool and it worked well.

Currently still wondering if i should remove some media, or cut off the "fat leg". Can't find anything on google or related forums about anyone who has cut off the leg. From the way i look at it, even if i were to reduce media, the lattice screen leg will still press onto the purigen pack, hence cutting off the leg would make more sense. Just slightly concerned that the "leg" might actually be an important part of the lattice screen.

[Urban Aquaria]

Just slightly concerned that the "leg" might actually be an important part of the lattice screen.

From the looks of it, the middle plastic leg piece might just be meant to push into any sponges next to it, perhaps to prevent excessive movement? If so, then its not really essential because that wouldn't be required in your filter layout anyways.

[Bieffe]

Guys how abt the experience range? Any comments?

[Urban Aquaria]

Guys how abt the experience range? Any comments?

I'm currently still using a 2224 model (now called the eXperience 250)... it works well and has a large filter media volume, along with inbuilt taps. Its quite energy efficient too, running at just 8 watts for a 700 l/ph flow rate system.

[Bieffe]

I'm currently still using a 2224 model (now called the eXperience 250)... it works well and has a large filter media volume, along with inbuilt taps. Its quite energy efficient too, running at just 8 watts for a 700 l/ph flow rate system.

Thanks UA. I got myself experience 250 (2424) instead of the 2215....cos I don't like the lower bottom input.
In the process I broke my glass inlet!
Just 1 knock when I pull the pipes...it broke. While cleaning my 2213 I broke the shaft!
Flow rate much improved compared to my old 2213.
The 2424 I use my old Eheim Mech ceramic followed by coarse blue sponge then Azoo with sub strate pro...then fine white sponge.

[AQMS]

I'm currently still using a 2224 model (now called the eXperience 250)... it works well and has a large filter media volume, along with inbuilt taps. Its quite energy efficient too, running at just 8 watts for a 700 l/ph flow rate system.

Do you still have the box? Where it is made from? Just curious..

[Urban Aquaria]

Do you still have the box? Where it is made from? Just curious..

I don't have the box anymore but i did remember seeing a "made in germany" printed on the side of the box, though the unit i'm using is around 4-5 years old... not sure about the newer models though.

[RenesisTurbo]

I am looking for a Eheim hanging or internal filter for my livebearing breeding tank.The tank currently holds around 25-30 liters of water.....

I do have the Eheim Liberty 75 or Pickup 45 in mind.Which one is more suitable?

[Urban Aquaria]

I am looking for a Eheim hanging or internal filter for my livebearing breeding tank.The tank currently holds around 25-30 liters of water.....

I do have the Eheim Liberty 75 or Pickup 45 in mind.Which one is more suitable?

The Liberty 75 would be better, hang-on filters are installed externally so they don't take up valuable space inside the tank and their externally mounted motors wouldn't transfer as much heat into the water too.

[RenesisTurbo]

The Liberty 75 would be better, hang-on filters are installed externally so they don't take up valuable space inside the tank and their externally mounted motors wouldn't transfer as much heat into the water too.

Liberty 75 roughly how much and is it widely available everywhere? My friend lent me a Pickup 45 and I noticed that my platy fries kept getting sucked and a few even died without making it to adulthood.

[Urban Aquaria]

Liberty 75 roughly how much and is it widely available everywhere? My friend lent me a Pickup 45 and I noticed that my platy fries kept getting sucked and a few even died without making it to adulthood.

The Eheim Liberty model range are one of the more expensive hang-on filters around (for their size), if i remember correctly the Liberty 75 models should be retailing for around S$30-$40... it costs 3-4 times more than equivalent sized hang-on filters from other brands, though the Eheim build quality and reliably is usually better. You can check at popular LFS like C328 or Seaview to find Eheim hang-on filters.

If you are using power filters for a fry grow-out tank, you'll need to install fine pore sponge guards on the intakes and also further reduce the filter's flow rate much lower, so that the fry don't get sucked in or injured.

The better alternative for fry tanks is to use sponge filters instead, they generate much less flow and still offer very good biological filtration.

[RenesisTurbo]

Hi, UA.....Can you show me a pic of the sponge filter? Think will like to get it asap.

[Urban Aquaria]

Hi, UA.....Can you show me a pic of the sponge filter? Think will like to get it asap.

Here are some examples:



Photo from Google Images.

You will also need to buy an air pump, silicone air line tubing, flow control valve and check valve to setup the sponge filter system.

[RenesisTurbo]

Thanks, UA.

[cumzilla]

hi, interested to get 2215, just happen to follow the posts in the last 2 pages and kept reading the white layer is the last layer, but the layouts at its product page shows otherwise or issit just for reference only?

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...rs/classic-350#

[Urban Aquaria]

hi, interested to get 2215, just happen to follow the posts in the last 2 pages and kept reading the white layer is the last layer, but the layouts at its product page shows otherwise or issit just for reference only?

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...rs/classic-350#

The layouts show the white filter wool as the last layer (before the black carbon pad)... it's correct as the internal filter flow direction is from the intake at the bottom up to the output at the top.

Note that the black carbon pad is included in the filter package for initial use only during the first 2 weeks of setup (it has limited lifespan to adsorb impurities), after that it is removed and thrown away. So only the white filter wool is a permanent last layer in the filter.

[cumzilla]

The layouts show the white filter wool as the last layer (before the black carbon pad)... it's correct as the internal filter flow direction is from the intake at the bottom up to the output at the top.

Note that the black carbon pad is included in the filter package for initial use only during the first 2 weeks of setup (it has limited lifespan to adsorb impurities), after that it is removed and thrown away. So only the white filter wool is a permanent last layer in the filter.

Ic, thanks for the info. as i thought the last layer is at bottom of the canister

[cumzilla]

Hi UA,

Read that you only use the filter wool and Seachem matrix. The place i am buying my 2215 from gave me 2 options, one with the original Eheim media and one without. Difference in cost is roughly $40 or so.

What would you recommend? Any idea on how much media i require as well, if i use all the original pads except the carbon one? Specs seem to suggest 4L, taking into account the filter pads, would 3L of media suffice?

hi, now i am also undecided to get the one with media or the one without. I know nuts about media so dont know which media to get if i get the one without. Please give some advice, thanks. Mine is a 2ft tank with ten 1.5"-2.5" ranchus.

[Urban Aquaria]

hi, now i am also undecided to get the one with media or the one without. I know nuts about media so dont know which media to get if i get the one without. Please give some advice, thanks. Mine is a 2ft tank with ten 1.5"-2.5" ranchus.

If you prefer a particular of bio-media or already have seasoned bio-media from another tank, then it would be good to buy the no-media filter package, the savings can be put towards separately buying other items that you want.

But if you are not sure, then just get the filter package that includes everything, the included eheim media are okay to use too.