First high tech planted tank corner

[Ryan Peh]

You need to have balance fertilizer, N,P, K and micro nutrient. You are having excess nutrient of some kind in the water column which results in Algae. Those excess nutrient cannot be fully utilize because you are lacking in some other type of nutrient..... You need test kit to find out what is lacking.

But I've always heard of other people who don't use test kit and have successful tanks too... Should I just start dosing more of the Tropica Specialised fertiliser instead?

Also, will overdosing Potassium cause algae growth?

[Urban Aquaria]

Yeah, thats the tricky part about managing pest algae, on one hand have control excess nutrients, yet still need enough nutrients for the plants to use. It requires constant monitoring and adjustments to achieve the balance, combined with active removal of algae using various methods and treatments.

In the future, try to quarantine and pre-treat all new plants before introduction into a tank, it will help to avoid alot of this type of hassle.

[jackychun]

Tropica also advice to have some fast growing plants in the tank, so that it can take all excessive nutrient and algae would have less chance to develop. You might try to do that too.


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[WingCher]

But I've always heard of other people who don't use test kit and have successful tanks too... Should I just start dosing more of the Tropica Specialised fertiliser instead?

Also, will overdosing Potassium cause algae growth?

Tropical premium does not contain N and P while Tropical specialized has them, but both does not contain K significantly. Both premium and specialized fertilizers have iron and other micro-nutrients, which will cause algae issues if they are not used up by plants fast enough.

If you are using ADA aquasoils, your tank should have plenty of N, and since you dosing Potassium so K should be in abundance. I believe your tank's plants are limited by P, Phosphorus. The balance of nutrients is crucial in limiting algae growth, because if any of the micro-nutrients is lacking, plants will slow down or even stop taking in other nutrients for their photosynthesis. Healthy plants will redirect their own nutrients to new emerging leaves from old growth, hence you will see leaves starting to become brown from their tips amd rot. That is when algae will take over and consume the excess nutrients in water column leeched by plants and our fert dosage.

I have read before from a bro here in this forum, the nutrients are like the fuel of the car, the lights are like the car's accelerator pedal, while CO2 is used for the combustion. We need to keep the balance. That's why you see some bros here dose ferts using Estimative Index and have little algae issues, because they have kept the ratio of nutrients in balance, and thus no need for test kits. These experts observe by the leaves and new growth.

To answer your questions, overdosing Potassium will not cause algae growth if you also dose N and P in good proportions. When the plants take in more K, they will also take in more N and P. If any of them is limited, leaves start to melt, algae start to take over.

[Ryan Peh]

Tropical premium does not contain N and P while Tropical specialized has them, but both does not contain K significantly. Both premium and specialized fertilizers have iron and other micro-nutrients, which will cause algae issues if they are not used up by plants fast enough.

If you are using ADA aquasoils, your tank should have plenty of N, and since you dosing Potassium so K should be in abundance. I believe your tank's plants are limited by P, Phosphorus. The balance of nutrients is crucial in limiting algae growth, because if any of the micro-nutrients is lacking, plants will slow down or even stop taking in other nutrients for their photosynthesis. Healthy plants will redirect their own nutrients to new emerging leaves from old growth, hence you will see leaves starting to become brown from their tips amd rot. That is when algae will take over and consume the excess nutrients in water column leeched by plants and our fert dosage.

I have read before from a bro here in this forum, the nutrients are like the fuel of the car, the lights are like the car's accelerator pedal, while CO2 is used for the combustion. We need to keep the balance. That's why you see some bros here dose ferts using Estimative Index and have little algae issues, because they have kept the ratio of nutrients in balance, and thus no need for test kits. These experts observe by the leaves and new growth.

To answer your questions, overdosing Potassium will not cause algae growth if you also dose N and P in good proportions. When the plants take in more K, they will also take in more N and P. If any of them is limited, leaves start to melt, algae start to take over.

Thanks for the explanation Wingcher! so with Tropica Specialised fertiliser that contains N and P, I don't have to get seachem phosphorous as long as I dose it enough?

[Realcaster]

Its about the keep the right ratio of N,P,K and micros.

example, my 4ft tank is relatively new, Amazonia Aquasoil is leaking lots of N but my K level is not suffcient. I have KNO3 from EcoCity which provide K & N.

I cant use KNO3 for now because I have suffcient N for now but lack of K. So instead I have to buy Seachem K and dose it so that my N is not in excess. Otherwise my Livestock suffers.

Strickly speaking, you cant just dose Tropica Specialised just because you need P. because when you dose Tropical specialise, N also get into the water column.

Like UA and Wingcher said, it all about balance, it is especially tough for new tanks because, soil are leaking N, Plant density still unstable (you do not know the nutrient up take rate), livestock quantity still unstable (you do not know the N output and small amount of P from food).....etc. All the parameter is fluctuating.

EI dosing dont need test kit, I believe what he meant is, you do not need test kit all the time once you have tested enough upfront to know the nutrient up take rate of the "Stable Tank" to know for sure how much of what to dose.

[Ryan Peh]

Well things seem to be going from bad to worse.... With my co2 splitter not tightened because I need to keep the bubble counter upright, most of my co2 leaked out and my tank is now empty.. Luckily there's a CO2 Refill at the east side so it's not that bad but I'm only free on Saturday and I'm not sure if they are open on weekends...
I'm also considering to take this opportunity and do a black out for the tank. It'll solve the algae problem if I black out the tank for a day or two right? My only worry is that my plants may not do well after the black out...

Also, 1 harlequin jumped out long ago but I still can't find its' body and now I just found another Galaxy Rasbora all dried up next to my cabinet... Are Galaxy Rasboras known to jump???

[Ryan Peh]

I am going to get the inline glass bubble checker with a separate check valve instead so I can tighten the splitter properly without needing it to be upright. Also just to check, is there any special kind of check valve I have to use for CO2 or any plastic cheapo one will do? I'm using the pressurised air tube meant for CO2.

I'm also gonna get more fire red shrimps and some White oyama paper for the background of both tanks. Also, seachem phosphorous. THIS HOBBY IS SPENDING ALL MY MONEY

[Urban Aquaria]

The fishes you currently keep in your tank do jump from time to time, especially if the water level is close to the brim of the tank and they get startled or chase each other near the water surface. Not much you can do other than to put a cover on the tank, otherwise just have to keep a look out for dried fishes around the tank. Usually when the fishes are more comfortable and familiar with the tank environment, the less likelihood of them jumping.

As for the check-valve, its better to use those metal types which are designed for Co2 systems, they will usually be more reliable.

[Ryan Peh]

The fishes you currently keep in your tank do jump from time to time, especially if the water level is close to the brim of the tank and they get startled or chase each other near the water surface. Not much you can do other than to put a cover on the tank, otherwise just have to keep a look out for dried fishes around the tank. Usually when the fishes are more comfortable and familiar with the tank environment, the less likelihood of them jumping.

As for the check-valve, its better to use those metal types which are designed for Co2 systems, they will usually be more reliable.

Thanks again UA! Hopefully things get better from here on out! Can't wait to have a nice aquascape with plants flourishing and growing densely..... But seems so tough for that to happen..

[Ryan Peh]

Week 6 update:

Last Saturday, I cleaned my tank thoroughly, scraping the glass and trimming plants with hair algae on them and also, with the black out and topping up of my CO2, my algae issues seemed to have cleared up! Also not to mention my 15 new Fire Red that I've added after losing about half of the first batch...

The amount of pearling I'm seeing has really been an encouragement for me to keep trying again and again for this hobby and it's almost one of the only reason why I haven't gave up and just sell of everything.

Also, the creeping of my MC has been really consistent and I can't wait for them to grow thicker!



On the other hand, my other tank that I've recently planted with Monte Carlo about a week ago is not doing so well...



I have decided to remove everything from that tank and start from scratch. I'll be reusing the soil but this time, I'm going for something with a sand bank at the front corner! Mainly because I want to try keeping a whole bunch of Pygmy Corydoras!

These are two of my inspirations that I found on Google:





I'm gonna use black lava rocks along with some cut up vanguard board to serve as the boundary between the sand and the planted parts of the tank. I'll be stacking the lava rocks like a castle wall and the soil part would be raised slightly so that it looks like there's a level difference between the soil and the sand. I am considering to plant some Eleocharis Mini right behind the lava rocks then behind them would be the rest of the plants which I have yet to decide. Anyone got any suggestions for mid-ground plants and background plants?

It's gonna be a whole lot of effort cleaning out the failed iwagumi tank... Wish me luck

[Realcaster]

Impressive growth Ryan. Time to trim the moss, the growth will be faster and fuller.

[jackychun]

I can see the plants started growing well in the first tank already. Jia you, Ryan!

The 2nd tank, have you changed the light yet?


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[Ryan Peh]

I can see the plants started growing well in the first tank already. Jia you, Ryan!

The 2nd tank, have you changed the light yet?


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Yup changed the lighting to Green Element and the only beneficiary was the algae... I've trimmed off the nice mc to replant in the healthy tank!

Impressive growth Ryan. Time to trim the moss, the growth will be faster and fuller.

Thanks Realcaster! Yeah, will be trimming them tonight

Oh ya, when I'm testing nitrates and phosphates, do I test it after I fertilise or test it at the end of the day?
To get 2ppm phosphates, does it mean to still have 2ppm at the end of the day or dose until 2ppm?

[Ryan Peh]

rocks along with some cut up vanguard board to serve as the boundary between the sand and the planted parts of the tank. I'll be stacking the lava rocks like a castle wall and the soil part would be raised slightly so that it looks like there's a level difference between the soil and the sand. I am considering to plant some Eleocharis Mini right behind the lava rocks then behind them would be the rest of the plants which I have yet to decide. Anyone got any suggestions for mid-ground plants and background plants?

It's gonna be a whole lot of effort cleaning out the failed iwagumi tank... Wish me luck

What I was referring to for the boundaries of the soil area is something like what Takashi Amano did here.

http://youtu.be/G_bho_UexRU

[aquaticlover]

Oh ya, when I'm testing nitrates and phosphates, do I test it after I fertilise or test it at the end of the day?
To get 2ppm phosphates, does it mean to still have 2ppm at the end of the day or dose until 2ppm?

I believe 2ppm phosphates means for a week. Not meant for a day.

This link: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertil...hosphorus.html talks about the N:P ratio for the aquatic plants. It is interesting to note on the ratio for NO3:PO4. The ratio is 23:1. Imagine all your plants can take up PO4 of 2ppm a day, you will need to maintain 46ppm Nitrate for that day.

[Ryan Peh]

I believe 2ppm phosphates means for a week. Not meant for a day.

This link: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertil...hosphorus.html talks about the N:P ratio for the aquatic plants. It is interesting to note on the ratio for NO3:PO4. The ratio is 23:1. Imagine all your plants can take up PO4 of 2ppm a day, you will need to maintain 46ppm Nitrate for that day.

OHHH HAHA alright, so that means when dosing phosphate daily, I should be able to get a result of 2ppm at any time of the day throughout the week?
Means anytime I see the phosphate lower than 2ppm, I should dose also?

[Realcaster]

My PO4 values ranges from 3ppm~1ppm any time, I dont really dose base on weekly consumption, but instead maintaining it at my target range.

Because every tank is different, the uptake rate is also different. My plant uptake rate of PO4 is about 1.5ppm per day and my NO3 uptake rate is about 15~20ppm per day. Not taking into consideration of the fish poo, rotten leaves and leakage from the relatively new Amazonia soil. I try to maintain my N03 not to exceed 30~40ppm.

My K seem to be pretty stable, and always about 20~30ppm.

Still pretty new at this, not sure whether what i did is really EI dosing. Any experience aquarist please advise.

I am still doing lots of Trial & error, I hope to push my PO4 to more than 5ppm.

So far my Algae management have being good so far, the tank wall hardly had any algae ditoms.

My lightingt period is 10hrs with 2 set of 4ft Evo 3W per LED light. Total Power is 192watts total. CO2 at 6~8bps using CO2 reactor.

[aquaticlover]

My PO4 values ranges from 3ppm~1ppm any time, I dont really dose base on weekly consumption, but instead maintaining it at my target range.

Because every tank is different, the uptake rate is also different. My plant uptake rate of PO4 is about 1.5ppm per day and my NO3 uptake rate is about 15~20ppm per day. Not taking into consideration of the fish poo, rotten leaves and leakage from the relatively new Amazonia soil. I try to maintain my N03 not to exceed 30~40ppm.

My K seem to be pretty stable, and always about 20~30ppm.

Still pretty new at this, not sure whether what i did is really EI dosing. Any experience aquarist please advise.

I am still doing lots of Trial & error, I hope to push my PO4 to more than 5ppm.

So far my Algae management have being good so far, the tank wall hardly had any algae ditoms.

My lightingt period is 10hrs with 2 set of 4ft Evo 3W per LED light. Total Power is 192watts total. CO2 at 6~8bps using CO2 reactor.

That's the encouraging test data to support the 23:1 ratio of NO3 and PO4.

Realcaste, would you mind sharing your plant mass? It will be very beneficial to us to relate the PO4 uptake and plant mass.

Ryan can also gauge his PO4 dosage base on his plant mass.

[Ryan Peh]

Hey guys... So apparently not only my fishes jump... My fire reds are jumping out too!

The tank seems pretty healthy to me as of now... Am I dosing too much ferts?

I've had my 3rd fire red jump out and dry up on my living room floor within 2 days. Anyone had such experience???