kh4 solution for CO2 drop checker

[illumnae]

Where can i get this? i'm using a ph lowering soil and as such can't use the standard kh/ph comparison to get an accurate gauge of the level of co2 in my tank.

[valice]

Read this.
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ker#post258437

Also, the KH4 is not a solution. What is mentioned, is the test reagent of a kH test kit.

[PeterGwee]

The KH 4 is a bottled solution diluted from a certified standard bicarbonate solution of a much higher KH say 40dKH (dilution factor of 10 using DI water with lab equipment like volumetric flask and pipette).

You can also do a rough estimate type by using a KH test kit + baking soda + distilled water (ain't that accurate though but should be better than the normal tank water testing using pH/KH since there is nothing influencing the dropchecker water except for CO2).

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[vurbul]

I use my self made KH 4 reference solution on my drop checker but it is not perfect. The drop checker supposed to turn green when co2 hits around 30ppm but I'm still getting BBA. Right now my drop checker is on yellow and fishes are okay but BBA is still persistence so I think my solution is screwed.

There's someone at barrreport.com sells the standard KH4 solution but shipping to here is expensive. Maybe we could do a Mass order?

[PeterGwee]

I use my self made KH 4 reference solution on my drop checker but it is not perfect. The drop checker supposed to turn green when co2 hits around 30ppm but I'm still getting BBA. Right now my drop checker is on yellow and fishes are okay but BBA is still persistence so I think my solution is screwed.

There's someone at barrreport.com sells the standard KH4 solution but shipping to here is expensive. Maybe we could do a Mass order?

vurbul, you need to make sure that the tank has good current throughout in order to get the CO2 well mixed. The important thing is the CO2 content near the leaves and the only way is to get the CO2 well mixed. Some folks add CO2 till the fish gasp but still have BBA growing actively due to the fact that they don't have proper mixing (lack of current in the tank or through the CO2 reactor). You might also want to check whether there is some lag time before the CO2 is actually being added due to the back-pressure.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[Shadow]

I just bought drop checker and the instruction said that I need to mixed 4 drops with aquarium water. I'm thingking that maybe because we need to have the same kH between the tank and inside the drop checker chamber. However if I'm using ADA soils, which lower the pH as well as kH, can I still use the tank water? if not then what water should I use? I can't mixed my own water with kH=4 because my tap water is only 0 or maybe 1.

[PeterGwee]

Robert, use distilled or deionized water and mix it with small amount of
baking soda till you hit the 4dKH mark based on the KH test kit. You do not want to use the tank water since the peat has change the pH and KH.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[Shadow]

Does it mean we are assuming default tank water is 4 dkh? Sorry I just don't understand why it must be 4 dkH

[PeterGwee]

No. The water in the dropchecker should come from a mixture of baking soda + distilled or deionized water (you add a tiny amount of baking soda to the distilled or deionized water slowly while testing the KH after every addition and repeat the process till you get a KH of 4.). Since you have a KH of 4, you should target a pH of 6.6 which is in the green colour range as Bromothymol blue (pH reagent) is being used.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[vurbul]

vurbul, you need to make sure that the tank has good current throughout in order to get the CO2 well mixed. The important thing is the CO2 content near the leaves and the only way is to get the CO2 well mixed. Some folks add CO2 till the fish gasp but still have BBA growing actively due to the fact that they don't have proper mixing (lack of current in the tank or through the CO2 reactor). You might also want to check whether there is some lag time before the CO2 is actually being added due to the back-pressure.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

Thanks Peter. Yes I've checked circulation and it is okay. BBA are at almost everywhere in the tank and most are at the driftwood right in front of the rainbar where current is strongest. I even tried with KH5 reference which would means 45ppm when green. But BBA still appear.

So I think its my faulty test kit.

[PeterGwee]

Is it actively growing or just sitting out there? If it is not growing anymore, all you need to do is to trim it off. You can also consider add CO2 1hr before the photoperiod. Use the CO2 mist method can improve things and that will aid in the visual identification of whether circulation optimal or not since you can see the tiny bubbles floating around.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[Shadow]

No. The water in the dropchecker should come from a mixture of baking soda + distilled or deionized water (you add a tiny amount of baking soda to the distilled or deionized water slowly while testing the KH after every addition and repeat the process till you get a KH of 4.). Since you have a KH of 4, you should target a pH of 6.6 which is in the green colour range as Bromothymol blue (pH reagent) is being used.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

Now that you mention it, you are right, we do not need to care about the tank kH. The important thing is the right pH inside the camber.

By the way where can I get this Bromothymol blue?

[PeterGwee]

Most pH test kits reagents are Bromothymol blue. The chart should have yellow, green and blue ranges.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[vurbul]

Is it actively growing or just sitting out there? If it is not growing anymore, all you need to do is to trim it off. You can also consider add CO2 1hr before the photoperiod. Use the CO2 mist method can improve things and that will aid in the visual identification of whether circulation optimal or not since you can see the tiny bubbles floating around.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

This is what I have done- Remove all infected plants, bomb driftwood with excel till no more sign of BBA. C02 is injected 1 hr before lights on via UP internal reactor.

After a few hours when gas is accumulated in the reactor some get blown out and I can see tiny bubbles floating indicating my circulation is getting to all parts of tank. Drop checker is yellowish green in colour with KH5 solution. Its showing co2 is high.

I am dosing EI method, plants are pearling and growing very well and yet BBA will somehow reappear. On the leaves, on the rainbar, on the driftwood. I am beginning to accept that BBA will forever be part of my tank but I am still trying to eliminate it completely.

[Shadow]

Most pH test kits reagents are Bromothymol blue. The chart should have yellow, green and blue ranges.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

mine is green to blue only

[PeterGwee]

vurbul, how big is your tank? Consider using the CO2 mist method and ensure that the mist moves around the tank well. The CO2 system needs to be responsive and should only take about an hour or so to hit the target CO2 from ambient levels.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[vurbul]

Mine is a 12 gallon tank with 27watt pl. Mist method is by difussing via ceramic diffuser and having the current blow the co2 bubbles across the tank, right?

I will try this Peter and hopefully it works. I think it could be that the co2 levels not high enough when the lights comes on.

Thanks Peter.

[illumnae]

how would i go about using the mist method if i'm using an external co2 reactor powered by my eheim 2028? i have the rainbar placed horizontally near the water surface with the holes facing 45 degrees downwards at the opposite end from the filter intake (for various reasons i can't put it anywhere else). also have a separate 450li/hour powerhead placed on the side glass of the tank nearer the filter intake also with the rainbar placed horizontally near the water surface.

total flowrate of filter + powerhead should be ~1500li/hour

[PeterGwee]

You can either use a diffuser in the tank and have the current from the filter outlet and powerhead to blast the mist around the tank, especially towards the plants. The other method is to feed the CO2 line into the intake of the powerhead. Just make sure the mist gets around well and the CO2 level gets high asap after it is on.

Regards,
Peter Gwee

[illumnae]

the method seems to assume the use of a diffuser or direct to powerhead.

so if i'm using an external co2 reactor (co2 gets dissolved before the water even reaches the tank) i don't have to bother about the misting method and assume that i have even co2? =)