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Very interesting problem you have here. May I suggest that you post a FTS with what you want to achieved and the limitations you face. It might help us in helping you brainstorm an idea
I considered that, but this pump will need to create water circulation in 14 partitions and will also dump heat into the water.
Multiple small pumps would mean too much power sockets to work with and too much heat, hence the decision to get 1 powerful airpump instead
Very interesting problem you have here. May I suggest that you post a FTS with what you want to achieved and the limitations you face. It might help us in helping you brainstorm an idea
Need something to scratch that itchy hand of mine.
Don't act smart. Be smart!
Haha Er.... Will work but somewhere might get flood hahahaOriginally Posted by Ecalyte
I think you read from his 1st post his fts is there.Very interesting problem you have here. May I suggest that you post a FTS with what you want to achieved and the limitations you face. It might help us in helping you brainstorm an idea
Your air driven cOncept + bridging design? Will it be able to create a flow??
The air driven method is doing quite nicely now actually. Just a little messy with so many air lines but much better than having stagnant water in the middle of partitions.
If I can redesign this again, I'll just use a full mesh partition
Wow, very nice setup, sadly i dont have the space to be able to do something like that, but this will serve as some poison if i ever could do it in the future.
I can imagine there hahahaha all the tubing flying here and there hmmm that remind me of someone that posted with alot of pipe and hose flying all over the shop
Just got my greedy hands on a Hiblow 100. Time to add more tubings...
Seriously Lfs in the making........ Well if you consolidated would be tidy but some tubing will need to be longer.
Ok folks, I've encountered 2 issues and I did some reading but could not come to a sure solution.
1. I've more or less given up having a surface skimming action from the overflow over the glass partitions. However, unlike the bottom of the partition, the top only has support on 3 sides, the top is opened. I've tried all kinds of mesh, sponges and supports but all will bend or loosen over time and let the shrimplets sneak through. I no longer can afford that and do not have the time to keep trying other means.
My last 2 options are to either use very strong magnets to clamp meshes in place and plug minor holes with sponges. Or just bite the bullet and use silicone to seal the mesh to the top of the partition permanently.
The magnets may still fail and would look pretty ugly. I would also need to spend alot of time on waterproofing the magnets and of course, money.
With the silicone, I can off the pumps and lower the water levels just enough to work dry but I cannot afford to leave the pump off for very long. The concern is of course with the silicone having to cure when in contact with tank water.
From what I understand, silicone cures by a reaction with moisture (H2O), that produces acetic acid (vinegar) as a byproduct. This is not toxic but may affect pH. The plus side is, the silicone will cure extra quick in water (may be weaker but strength is not a concern. Should I just do it?
2. The other issue is I found springtails on my frogbits. They are harmless but in large numbers, unsightly. Physical removal is not working. Anyone have any better ideas?
I think that is you last resort unless you want to go into engineering using 2 acrylic sandwich the mesh in between glue up if you create a slot at the end after you glue the arcyllic you form a slot to slot down your glass.
Springtail hmm they shouldn't be able to stay submerge maybe remove your floater.
Leached acetic acids can likely crash the existing bacterial colonies and then lead to another bacterial bloom. Are you prepared for that, as well as shrimp casualties arising from the pH swing?
I'm back & keeping 'em fingers wet,
Ronnie Lee
Yes Ron, that's the main worry. I had tested using just enough silicone to seal a mesh to a sponge and putting it in after an hour. pH didn't fall at all over the next 2 days.
I think the trick is to do it in small quantities each time & use as little silicone as possible?
I'm curious about one other thing. If I let the silicone air dry, and considering the fact that acetic acid had an even higher boiling point than water, wouldn't it also take very long to evaporate? I would think the acetic acid would simply form a thin layer on the silicone until the next time it touches water, when it would dissolve.
Such a pain
Ok, after some additional thoughts, maybe a rigid support, silicone above the water line, will be sufficient to keep the partition mesh in place...will try later
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